Super Kleer vs. Sparkolloid for SP

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I added Super Kleer about 16-days ago. I haven't back-sweetened or bottled yet. I used the slurry from a White Merlot which has given it a slight pink tint. I have maintained about 73-75 from the beginning. Should I continute to wait for it to clear? Will in clear in the bottle? Any suggestions?

Thank you,
Linda

Make sure it is de-gassed really well. (put a sample in a small bottle, seal with thumb and shake. If you get gas release when you remove your thumb, you still have gas). If gas isn't your problem, it could be a pectin haze. It can be treated with pectic enzyme.
 
Thank you for the suggestions Lon! I did the pssst test and yes I've got gas... Got the drill back out and it seems the more I whip it the worst it gets!
It is possible to whip too hard or too long? I'm going to let it still for a couple minutes and attack it again...
I'm a bit surprised as I used the drill mounted stirrer every time and yet it seems to have more now than ever! Wonder if it's the 'store-brand' lemon juice...
Am I going to need to add a clearing agent again or will this one still do the job once I get the gas out?
Thanks again for helping me thru this, I'm determined to see this thru and I'm already planning my second batch (as soon as I can bottle this one!)

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Linda, it seemed to take forever to get all the gas out of my second batch. It took a lot longer and much more stirring. I still don't know what the difference between it and my first batch was, unless it was because the must was at a cooler temp, but the second one was harder to degas.
 
I recently cleared a batch using two separate gelatin additions and cold crashing. It went from start to finish (bottled) in under a month. And damn is it good! It's possible!

The yeast was a mango wine slurry from Red Star Champagne yeast.
 
What is the 'proper' way to degas?

I just read a post that said.
'...do NOT stir the wine too close to the surface, as this creates surface turbulence which can introduce O2 into the mix, while the objective is simply to remove the CO2..."​
$#%! - I've been whipping the crap out if it, top to bottom and back up again... I've probably done this for 5-10 minutes, half-a-dozen times today :0

O.k, I'm putting the drill down and stepping away...
 
Yeah, not the way to do it, sorry. You have most likely degassed your wine though. Basically some people say to do quick bursts in forward and reverse on slow speed and some say high speed. Do not form a vortex as by doing that youll be sucking in air or just exposing too much wine to the air. I keep mine 3/4 of the way in and do the forward revesrse in high speed.
 
Make sure your sulfites are at good levels... You'll probably be ok. Live and learn...
 
There is a device or something to test.... I'm not that fancy Yet. But it sounds like you'll be fine on this still... As long as you didn't do it for hours on end, I doubt you let engough O2 in to do any damage...
 
What is the 'proper' way to degas?

I just read a post that said.
'...do NOT stir the wine too close to the surface, as this creates surface turbulence which can introduce O2 into the mix, while the objective is simply to remove the CO2..."​
$#%! - I've been whipping the crap out if it, top to bottom and back up again... I've probably done this for 5-10 minutes, half-a-dozen times today :0

O.k, I'm putting the drill down and stepping away...

Your drill mounted stirrer will work well. It helps if your SP is somewhat warm (in the 70's if possible). Like Wade said, I give it short bursts forward, then backward. The key is to not "suck" air into a vortex in the wine.

Another way you can do it is to leave the airlock on and agitate the carboy while you have it on a towel on a slippery floor. Slide it back and forth to make it slosh in the carboy. It'll release CO2, and no oxygen gets in to contaminate it.

Personally, I use a hand vacuum pump to degas more quickly.

Your Sparkolloid, will get stirred up, but it should settle back out again without a new addition.

Cheers,
 
Great thread. Always learning something new.

I was working out of town for the week and my pee is clear! Towards the bottom there is some stuff clinging to the sides of the carboy just above the bottom sludge. I'm guessing this is just the leese stuck to the sides and nothing to worry about. Except for when I get down towards bottom of carboy while bottling, I may get some in the bottles. All drinks the same though I guess.
 
Great thread. Always learning something new.

I was working out of town for the week and my pee is clear! Towards the bottom there is some stuff clinging to the sides of the carboy just above the bottom sludge. I'm guessing this is just the leese stuck to the sides and nothing to worry about. Except for when I get down towards bottom of carboy while bottling, I may get some in the bottles. All drinks the same though I guess.

Catfish,

Rack it before you bottle. You should always make sure that there is nothing at the bottom of your carboy before bottling.
 
If you can give that carboy a sharp twist the day before you rack it, it will knock those lees off the side and they'll settle out by racking time.... :)
 
I use bentonite and it has always cleared perfectly for skeeter pee. I haven't tried the others though so I can't compare it, bentonite gets mine crystal clear so it's all I have been using.

I also use bentonite. Nothing but perfect results!
 
After a month I gave up trying to get it to clear, I'm just too darn impatient :tz Does it make a difference in flavor if it's clear or not?

And what gravity reading are you shooting for after back-sweetening?

...just two more weeks, just two more weeks... ;)
 
The label on my instructions say to add 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of water and boil 5 minutes, I found that did absolutely nothing. So read somewhere else to do 1 tablespoon for one cup and boil 20-30 minutes and that has worked much better! Usually clears very quickly.
 

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