Starting my wine building

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Arkansan07

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My wine hobby has gotten too big for the house, especially with a newborn at home. I just purchased a custom metal building to use for my wine making. I'll post updates as it comes along if anyone is interested. Ran my wires and boxes for my outlets today and starting rafters tomorrow. Here are a few pics, all windows are double pained and the rear window is 3x3' im going to install a heat and air unit in it. The building itself is 12x24x8(wall)

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Looks good! I would advise you to insulate, insulate, insulate to help mitigate temperature swings and so you can keep it as cool as possible during the long periods that you will need AC cooling in AR. I wouldn't even worry to much about heat. Perhaps just pick up a portable space heater down the road in case your room temps fall below 55 and so you can quickly heat the room while you work in it, then shut it off etc.
 
I'm interested in following the progress. Thanks...
 
Nice size area. I double and triple ibeglowin's suggestion if you hadn't already planned on it. Without insulation your heating and cooling will really struggle at working. Looks like a good start, keep up the notes and pictures, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Mike
 
I plan on insulating as it does get hot as hell here, but it also gets bitter cold. It was 5 degrees a few nights ago and didnt get above 30 for a few days
 
very nice - !

How do you plan on keeping it the temperature stable thru that
type of climate ?
 
WOW! All I was allowed was a 2x10 closet for a cellar and 5x10 in the boiler room for a "wine kitchen". You get a whole building. Your wife must be the BEST!
 
if the building is way over air tight be careful of humidity in the winter. Had a winery where we sprayed in the insulation to about 3 inches in some places ended up 5 inches. it was so airtight that had to open window in winter to keep humidity down used a heat pump for heating and cooling. this is located in Kansas City area.
 
Boy, I HOPE it has water. That would be rough if not.

I'd suggest a PTAC/heat pump unit (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner and heat pump).

You are going to have to install plastic (vapor barrier) the hard way, from the inside. I'd go with the plastic against the metal, then your insulation batts. If you don't do this, or if you insulate and then go plastic vapor barrier, the metal can condense moisture inside and wet your insulation, destroying its ability to insulate.

Attic eave foam vents may be an easier route for you: (http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...src=17588969&gclid=CLeQntyPlMMCFSgV7AodjB4Asg) Install between your studs to ventilate the metal and keep the wool off it.

I have an uninsulated metal storage building, and it literally rains inside in spring and fall in the right conditions.
 
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Boy, I HOPE it has water. That would be rough if not.

I'd suggest a PTAC/heat pump unit (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner and heat pump).

You are going to have to install plastic (vapor barrier) the hard way, from the inside. I'd go with the plastic against the metal, then your insulation batts. If you don't do this, or if you insulate and then go plastic vapor barrier, the metal can condense moisture inside and wet your insulation, destroying its ability to insulate.

Attic eave foam vents may be an easier route for you: (http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...src=17588969&gclid=CLeQntyPlMMCFSgV7AodjB4Asg) Install between your studs to ventilate the metal and keep the wool off it.

I have an uninsulated metal storage building, and it literally rains inside in spring and fall in the right conditions.

I was planning on using the rolls of R13 fiberglass with vapor barrier already included. It may not be the best choice though. Also planning on blowing in about 14-16" of cellulose in the attic.

Lol my wife is just happy im making room in the house

I will have updated pics tomorrow
 
If those are screws you have in the plates on your rafters, i would look at replacing them with or adding allot more nails. galvanized joist hanger nails would be better. The problem with screws is that they have very little shearing strength. they also rust over time which further weakens them.
 
If those are screws you have in the plates on your rafters, i would look at replacing them with or adding allot more nails. galvanized joist hanger nails would be better. The problem with screws is that they have very little shearing strength. they also rust over time which further weakens them.

Putterrr, is it safe to say that you meant drywall screws, in particular? I agree those have insufficient shear strength. Construction screws (i.e., yellow screws) would be fine, right?
 
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