- Oct 23, 2014
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ok johnd, after reading your post ,,, i demand you come outta the closet, yes johnd, after reading your post i read between your lines, no need to deny that,,, you are a country wine maker at heart, BAHWAAA, YOU'VE BEEN BUSTED, I'm am so proud of you,,,,First, we use a rule of thumb for figuring out how much more volume to make to end up with the final wine volume we desire. It's 65% - 70% of the original must volume. This assumes that you'll lose 25% - 30% of your volume due to racking and pressing. It works on grapes, but is a little heavy handed when making wine that has lots of added water. If you wanted to make a straight blueberry wine, little to no water added, it would take in the neighborhood of 60# to get 3 gallons.
To answer your question, if I were shooting for 3 gallons finished wine and wanted to have 7# of blueberries per gallon, this is what I'd do:
Mush up 28# of blueberries in a bucket and measure the volume of the mush, which I'm guessing will be somewhere around a gallon. If 65% of that mush ends up as wine, you'd get .65 gallons from it. I'd then add 3.35 gallons of water, for a final must volume of 4 gallons. Check and adjust your pH to be 3.3+, blueberries are notable for high acid / low pH, getting it up to 3.3+ will help your yeast out tremendously. Adjust the BRIX up to your desired level so you get the ABV% you're looking for. Add some pectic enzymes, mix well and let sit 12 hours before adding your yeast.
The refractometer is a good way to check your BRIX prior to fermentation, and just know that it'll probably rise a tad once the enzymes do their thing. After fermentation starts, switch over to your hydrometer for BRIX / SG readings, as the refractometer readings are skewed by the alcohol in the wine. There are formulas to adjust the readings, but I prefer to just switch to the hydrometer.