more questions

[georges]

ok folks. in the spirit of the carpenters mantra (measure twice, cut once) i have been going over all the steps in my head again before getting into my first kit wine (RJS GC International Australian Cabernet).

I have a number of questions:

1. Regarding temperature, the instructions suggest that a primary fermenting range of of 20-24c (68-75) is desirable. However: i have read in other sources about winemaking in general that keeping the temperature a little lower (16-18c- 60-64f) during primary fermentation is desirable and improves flavour?

also- my garage where i am making this stuff is about at 17c (62.6f) during the day and around 12 (53f) overnight. to keep it around 20 i will need heating (i have a heating pad thing). my understanding about the yeast supplied in the kit (EC 1118) is that it is happy to munch sugar in a very wide range of temperatures?? any suggestions?

2. regarding the various bags of stuff to add: http://www.flickr.com/photos/poggles/5656400767/
Both those tea bag looking things seem to have oak in them- am i to understand that i just chuck them in exactly as is in the primary (if im only in the primary 1 week and get to 1.020 does that mean i get less oak in my wine?)
The grapeskins pack: the instructions say: "your wine kit may include genuwine dried winery grape skins. if it does, place them in hop bag and place in primary. for maximum colour add directly to the primary"

but then a little later, just for confusion, it says: if your kit contains dehydrated fruit, rehydrate in hot water and add to primary.

what would you do with this bag of dried skins?

cheers all and sorry about not figuring out how to do a direct link of the photo.


g

 

[Numa]

Hi georges, I'm no expert but I'll try to answer your questions.

1. You are correct about lower fermentation temperatures giving a different flavor. Fermentation can be a little slower or more difficult to get started at lower temps, but the lower temps do help preserve some of the more delicate flavors of the must.

Although EC-1118 is a very hardy yeast that will operate over a large wide of temperatures, it is best to try to maintain a consistent temperature during fermentation, just as during storage. Yeast produces different flavors at different fermentation temperatures, and constant temperature deviation may cause off-flavors or possibly even an incomplete fermentation, although I've not had any problems with 1118 and swings of about 5C.

2. I've not ever used dehydrated fruit or oak, but if it were me I would probably boil some water and let it cool to 50-60C or so, then dunk the bags in for a short period to hydrate them, and then pop them into the must after cooling them down a bit.

Hope this helps.

 

[cpfan]

georges:

IMO, kits are different than juices/fruits. So I feel that much of what you read that is not specific to kits is not helpful.

Personally I make kits at about 24C. The entire time until they are cleared. Part of the reasdon for this is that I believe that it makes degassing easier. Cool liquids hold more CO2 than warm liquids. You definitely want the wine about 24C for degassing. The heating pad should work.

Teabags....I put the oak teabags in a Pyrex measuring cup and pour a bit of very hot (recently boiled) water on them. I then put the liquid and tea bags in the primary. BTW they are going to float, so you will need to turn them under every day or two.

Grape skins...I haven't made a lot of kits with the dried skins from RJS. The ones I did, I just dumped the skins in the primary. Since then I have read that some people rehydrate the skins first. I don't know how much difference it will make. The skins should be turned under every day (or more often). I leave my stirring paddle in the primary for this purpose.

I have been putting skins in loose, not in the cloth bags provided. But I have some stainless steel tools that I use to scoop them out before siphoning the wine to a carboy.

I leave the wine in the primary until the sg gets down under 1.005, usually about 7 days in my environment. Transferring to carboy about 1.020 is likely to cause a volcano if the ferment picks up tempo. Some people prefer to leave the wine in primary until it is dry (under 1.000).

Steve

 

[wineh]

According to Winemaker Magazine articles, the cooler temperature thing applies to fresh grapes that have been kept cool from the vineyard. All wine kites are pasteurized, which means they have been brought to a temperature of roughly 180 degrees, then cooled again, so keeping your must cool is a little moot.
As for the oak chips, I would pour them in the must. they will sink (eventually), and you can rack off of them later.
I have never made a grapeskin kit, but I have read that a gauze bag is the way to go with them, and they need to be pushed under the must regularly. If you pre-soak them, I would suggest that you need to account for that water in your kit volume.
Regarding the temperature thing, a brewbelt is the best solution to your dilemma; they are temperature regulated at about 75 degrees. st and forget.

 

[jet]

My advice, follow the directions to the letter. You have no idea what all the manufacturer has done, so deviating from their path can produce undesirable results.

 

[Flem]

My advice, follow the directions to the letter. You have no idea what all the manufacturer has done, so deviating from their path can produce undesirable results.

I agree with jet. Follow the instructions pretty closely. You'll be rewarded with your finished product. As you gain more experience, you might want to experiment with different processes.

 

[Wade E]

In those oak infusion tea bafs are usually oak dust so I dont really recommend dumping, them in, keep them in the bag. Besides not really being too benfical to kits its usually not done wuth reds such as Cabs. Its typically a white wine or fruit wine you you keep the temps cooler on. You dont really want a Cab that is to fruit forward.