Topping up a carby with finished wine

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BernardSmith

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In response to questions about topping up after racking many people in this forum suggest using a bottle of similar wine. But wouldn't bottles of wine typically contain potassium sorbate. I realize that a single bottle won't contain very much K Sorbate in solution with 5 or 6 gallons (say 30 bottles ) of wine but if I have just racked the wine from a bucket won't the addition of even some sorbate inhibit the reproduction of the yeast? And if I rack when the SG is around 1.010 wouldn't inhibiting the reproduction of the yeast be dispreferred? Thoughts? Thanks
 
Topping up with similar wine should be done after the wine has been stabilized and cleared. My understanding is the practice of topping up is done to help minimized the exposure to oxygen during the aging period.

You wouldn't need to top up after the first transfer from the bucket to a carboy for the secondary ferment. In fact, most kit instruction instructs to leave a head room in the carboy and NOT to top up during the secondary ferment.
 
how about using a vacuum sealer or meal sealer ,, and seal water in a bag then put it in the pail
 
how about using a vacuum sealer or meal sealer ,, and seal water in a bag then put it in the pail

Displacement is common for topping up. Many people use the method you describe and pray the bag does not rupture and dilute the wine.

Steve, aka vacuumpumpman, the maker of All In One Wine Pump, did some work with 'air bladders'. They were essentially food grade material you inserted into top of carboy, inserted the provided straw into the neck and blew to inflate pillow, remove straw and device was self sealing. It filled the headspace quite effectively. Read all about it... http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f3/carboy-air-space-bladder-trial-version-18124/

Also, 3# of lead free marbles/stainless steel shot will displace one liter. There is a certain 'something' about the SS option, a grade or gauge that does not pit due to acidity of wine. Someone said they use hollow pellets of some sort.

Or use smaller containers.

I just make aim for an extra three cups of liquid per gallon and always have a topping up liquid of the same wine at the same stage.
 
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No need to top off until fermentation is completed. At that point, a little sorbate in the similar wine won't be significant. Unless the similar wine is sweet, it is not likely it will contain sorbate, as the taste of sorbate is something many people can pick up on and don't like. I am one of those people.
 
Commercial wineries don't normally use sorbate. If they do it has to be stated on the label just like sulfites are.
 
Commercial wineries don't normally use sorbate. If they do it has to be stated on the label just like sulfites are.

Why do we use sorbate if the wineries don't?
Just curious as I am still relatively new to all of this.
 
Its an added "insurance policy" that the kit manufacturers add in (for the homebrew hobbyist) just in case you don't ferment to dry somehow, not paying attention, made a mistake, screwed up.... If your wine gets stuck and never finishes it should be added or if the wine has an F-pack of sorts where the wine gets back sweetened then it should be added as it will keep any yeast lying around from starting fermentation back up. It also keeps other bugs at bay if your sanitization practices were less than good.

Under normal circumstances when a wine is fermented to completely dry and you use good sanitization practices it can be omitted.
 
Ah... I guess when I posted my question I assumed that the wine that was to be added was a bottle of our own home made wine left from an earlier batch. I imagined that most commercial wineries filter out yeast cells and so age wine with essentially no yeast in the wine and so would have no need to add pot. sorbate
 
Many commercial wineries use sorbate, just not all wineries. Not all commercial shops are setup for sterile filtration and even then there is no guarantee you captured all the yeast cells.
 
ibglowin said:
Commercial wineries don't normally use sorbate. If they do it has to be stated on the label just like sulfites are.

A declaration of sulfites is required but I don't see anything in the TTB wine labeling regulations that says sorbate needs to be listed. Do you know that it is a requirement and where can I find the regulation? I have never seen it on a wine label and I know wineries that use it and do not list it on the label.
 
A declaration of sulfites is required but I don't see anything in the TTB wine labeling regulations that says sorbate needs to be listed. Do you know that it is a requirement and where can I find the regulation? I have never seen it on a wine label and I know wineries that use it and do not list it on the label.

Greg....I agree with you about the sorbate identification not being a TTB requirement. Though an individual state could mandate the disclosure. For those who wonder about commercial labels, http://www.ttb.gov/wine/wine-labeling.shtml.

*Sara*
 
Back to the OP, the best way I have found is to make perhaps a half-gallon or gallon larger must than your carboys will hold, then after siphoning to secondary, pour the dregs (lees and must) from the bottom of your primary into canning jars or other large widemouth jars. Put the lid on loosely and set them in the fridge. After around 3 days, tighten the lid. Use the settled liquid as your topping fluid.

The cold fridge flocculates the yeast out nicely, and you are using the same wine so you will be topping with a sugar-depleted fluid (though not as depleted as your carboy wine in secondary). Because it is sugar-depleted, it has not restarted fermentation in the carboy when I have done this.

The method saves money and does not dilute your wine. Another advantage is, because you are not further fermenting this wine and it is kept cold, you don't have to worry about your small batch going bad somehow and then ruining your big batch when used to top. Plus, you can steal a nip for yourself when necessary. Anyway, FWIW.
 

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