How do I create the aroma?

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I was tasting my pear wine today and it seemed like it was missing something. So I bought a commercial fruit wine and it has an aroma mine does not. Smells sort of like walnut. How do I replicate that smell?


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Now that their is a question that even award winning winemakers ask before they make every batch of wine... I have heard about people having good luck using a gentle yeast strain, with low temperatures and a good nutrient regiment... That is where I would start... If that does not work you could try employing an "fpack"
 
Aroma is dependant on the ingredients, the more and varied the more complex the result, floral notes can be achieved by late addition of elderflower, lychee juice, guava juice, fruit tea bags(infused first), zesty citrus notes... a bit obvious, of course as Seth mentioned lower temps (14-19C), gentle yeast, although many yeasts will impart flavours of their own but keeping the temperature down is essential to avoid blowing off delicate esters....
 
Now that their is a question that even award winning winemakers ask before they make every batch of wine... I have heard about people having good luck using a gentle yeast strain, with low temperatures and a good nutrient regiment... That is where I would start... If that does not work you could try employing an "fpack"

Seth what would you consider a good nutrient regiment? 50 percent before fermentation and 50 percent at secondary?
 
Every one has its own aroma, of course it depends mostly of the ingredients. You can buy some aroma essence to improve the smell of your wine.
 
Every one has its own aroma, of course it depends mostly of the ingredients. You can buy some aroma essence to improve the smell of your wine.

Can you explain this more and a source for getting it? I can't see how you can add essence without altering flavor.

A very large part of getting the right aromas is having the right glass. It does make a huge difference along with the temperature of the wine your drinking.
 
I agree with Seth. I wonder if we sometimes try to ferment too quickly at too high a temperature and so lose many of the more volatile flavor and aromatic molecules. When wines we make don't ferment dry in two weeks we tend to get anxious but cider makers like Claude Jolicouer talk about fermentation in months not days
 
I may be a little off topic here, but the original post was about his pear wine not having a particular aroma... I made a pear/pineapple/white grape/raisin wine. I used K1-V116 yeast and it fermented very fast. Ambient temp was at 65, which I thought would be cool enough for a slow ferment. The 2nd day I moved it off the stool, to the very back of my "work" room, on the floor of my basement where the temp was closer to 60, but it went from 1.085 on 12/30/13 to 1.002 on 1/1/14. I then racked to a carboy on 1/6 and the sg was at 1.000. This wine is very "harsh" so I am just letting it sit in a car boy until it straightens up and tastes right!! However the aroma is heavenly!!! :?
 
The aroma will be much better in a pear wine that is fermented with no water added. Many winemakers still make fruit wines with water addition--it always dilutes the nose and flavor. There are only a couple fruit wines that really need water addition, and a standard recipe is best. Our pear wine smells like pear--so I'm sure you can achieve the same thing. I agree that delicate flavored wines--and whites in general--will always benefit from a cool ferment. Fermenting pear with 71B will eliminate much of the harshness, as some of the malic is metabolized with that yeast.

Peaches---If you're using regular DAP nutrient, divide the dose in half and pitch the first dose when the yeast starts taking off, the second dose when you reach 50% dry.
 
Seth what would you consider a good nutrient regiment? 50 percent before fermentation and 50 percent at secondary?

I recommend fermaid O using multiple additions during fermentation. I also recommend using a rehydration nutrient such as goferm. For a more detailed discussion on the matter you could read this thread where deezil and I found some things and then bounced around our own takes on what it meant.


http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f86/got-off-phone-fermaid-people-38704/
 
pear wine in general does have a delicate aroma. cool temperatures as suggested are required. I would use Cotes de Blanc as a yeast that increases aromatics. also 100% juice is also required. .
 
The pear wine was fermented in my basement which is about 62 degrees year round. Perhaps the mix is part of my aroma issue. My recipe calls for 60% water to 40% juice/sugar mix. So maybe it is too diluted. I had a few bushels of pears this year so I can certainly change the recipe. I'm sure my family would rather me make wine vs. get creative. I made pear cobbler, pear pie, pear butter, etc. The whole reason I got into wine making was because of excess pears!

I actually have my last batch of pears in a primary bucket fermenting now. I used the same recipe so I may get the same result.


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I agree Seth. Charles---if you freeze the pears first, this will give you an adequate amount of juice to work with for testing. And on this fruit, I'd be sure to use a better pectinase like Lallzyme C-Max because it de-pectinizes at a faster rate and is especially made to aid clearing and for use on viscous musts. It will break the pears down further on the first day, which will also make more juice. Don't add water---the only time you should add water is if there is a PURPOSE in doing it. Adding water to most musts gives you more volume of wine, but it is poorer quality. I would rather have LESS of a very good wine, then ALOT of poorer quality wine.

It's also beneficial to bentonite the primary on pear so that you get better clarification. Add it on the 3rd day of the ferment if you use it.
 
Seth--I don't think it's necessary to use Go Ferm with Fermaid O. Fermaid O should be mixed with room temp water before adding to an active ferment to prevent CO2 release and overflow of the primary.

Fermaid K is the one that should have a rehydration nutrient such as Go Ferm.
 
Why would you not use it with fermaid O but with K? The purpose of a rehydration nutrient is to ensure that the yeast not only starts out fermenting healthy but that it also stays healthy after multiple regenerations due to the generation of "sterols" ( ie fatty cell wall thing I think) that helps the yeast stay healthy late during the ferment.

BTW, im with you on your enzyme plan and no water unless needed.
 
Yeah Seth, I know what you're saying. But Scott Labs doesn't go into a lot of detail on the chemistry of the two. It just says for best results, it should be used with Go Ferm. But it doesn't say that for the Fermaid O. Fermaid O is an autolyzed yeast nutrient--quite different from Fermaid K.
 
Thanks for all the input on this thread. I'm curious about the use of oak infusion spirals, cubes or chips. They appear to enhance the aroma and flavor. Does anyone have experience with the use of these products? How do I use them in the wine?


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