Hole is dug for our new wine cellar

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At this point Seth its about her only hope for a (semi) easy fix. She can always take it back to Lowe's if it doesn't work out. The drain is a duct, like any other duct if you keep pouring flow into it be it air or water, it will take the path of least resistance. Assuming is it clear and open and the vent pipe is inserted as far as they can get it in to the drain, if they can seal it up using some insulation of sorts to make it tight it's may just work.

Definitely worth a shot IMHO.
 
At this point Seth its about her only hope for a (semi) easy fix. She can always take it back to Lowe's if it doesn't work out. The drain is a duct, like any other duct if you keep pouring flow into it be it air or water, it will take the path of least resistance. Assuming is it clear and open and the vent pipe is inserted as far as they can get it in to the drain, if they can seal it up using some insulation of sorts to make it tight it's may just work.

Definitely worth a shot IMHO.

Keep the receipt. Like ibglowin said, if you do intend on attempting this make sure that you get that hose as far as you possible an into that duct and seal it as good as you possibly can.
 
Near the end of of the outlet of the pipe you can always add an inline duct booster. All it is a fan that goes in line that will aid in longer runs to make sure your heat does get exhausted properly. If this all works fine - I would eventually put a proper hole in the wall for permanent.

How long is your run from the floor drain to the outside ? I recall it being a distance or so
 
Since the exhaust tubing is 5 inches and the drain opening is only 3 inches we will have to put a reducer on the exhaust tubing. If it works we will then cut a 5 inch hole in the cement. We hate to cut a hole in the cement until we are sure it will work because it would be a major problem patching a 5 inch hole in 8 inches of cement.

The drain tube in the drain probably runs 50'. There was a small hill that the drain tube had to go under so that the water would run down hill.

We cannot put more dirt over the top or heavy rain will flood the driveway and then the garage. And we did have heavy rain the past few days from first the front that moved from west to east and now from the tropical storm that moved up the east coast. Today should be the last day of heavy rain.

Cellar is maintaining 75 degrees but we are going to be 90 plus by Wednesday.
 
most inline blowers ars above 3'' in diameter - but you can use a
Boat in-line bilge blower (3'') which can be found at most big box stores for
reasonable money less than 20 dollars. Most all of them use 12 volt power
supply - hook a car battery or sort and just see if it works help pulling the discharge air out.

Here is a link to what I am talking about - did not have time to review all the different ones that are available at this time

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Turbo-3000-In-Line-Blower-Water-Resistant-12-Volt/14150765
 
Air conditioner is installed and ran for 2 hours but there was a small spot the warm air was not going down the bottom drain and the temp we up one degree to 76 and probably having the door open to get the air conditioner in there.

IRONIC we have a tornado watch until 10pm tonight! Reminds me, need to take a flashlight down there in case we lose power because there is only one light and it is really dark in there with no light. LOL.
 
Air conditioner is installed and ran for 2 hours but there was a small spot the warm air was not going down the bottom drain and the temp we up one degree to 76 and probably having the door open to get the air conditioner in there.

IRONIC we have a tornado watch until 10pm tonight! Reminds me, need to take a flashlight down there in case we lose power because there is only one light and it is really dark in there with no light. LOL.

Also a cork screw and a couple glasses. :b
 
IRONIC we have a tornado watch until 10pm tonight! Reminds me, need to take a flashlight down there in case we lose power because there is only one light and it is really dark in there with no light. LOL.

Sounds like you're pretty air tight now and lots of styrofoam. Sure doesn't sound like a place I'd like to be shut in. Does your cell phones work ok when you're locked inside of it in case the door gets blocked. Oops might not matter since cell service is usually lost when during tornados.
 
When you had the AC running discharging the warm air down the pipe - did you feel any air coming out of the end of the pipe ?

Did you have to put an inline booster on or not ?

You need to compare how much air from the end of the pipe compared to the pressure just straight out of the AC conditioner
 
I am certain that the blower on the air conditioner cannot overcome the friction of 50' 3" pipe. I am also certain that the blower on that unit could not even handle the friction of 50' of 5" pipe. It is time to consult a professional! I am certain that air conditioner will be returned to Lowes even though there is nothing wrong with it, just mis-applied.
 
I am certain that the blower on the air conditioner cannot overcome the friction of 50' 3" pipe. I am also certain that the blower on that unit could not even handle the friction of 50' of 5" pipe. It is time to consult a professional! I am certain that air conditioner will be returned to Lowes even though there is nothing wrong with it, just mis-applied.

I agree - my original suggestion would be removing the door off its hinges or keeping it fully open. And replacing the door with an entire 3-4'' solid piece of styrofoam with the hole cut out for the AC exhaust and see if it will work then. It will should not have any positive back pressure then .
 
The air conditioner will work if you vent it properly, which could probably be done through a wall with a hammer drill and a couple ofgood mortar bits.
 
Sammyk,

First off I have enjoyed this thread from the very beginning. Secondly, I have not enjoyed it to the ends of your frustrations. Thirdly, I am so impressed with all of the input everyone has provided. Lastly, I would like to add my 2 cents...

My suggestion for venting would be to shorten the door at the top by however many inches you need for venting. Then install a "dummy" header above the door with the needed venting. Then make sure the door seals appropriately when closed.

You may have to duck a little more when entering/leaving than you originally did, but this may be a more simple solution than cutting concrete.

Anyway, just my input and I hope you find a solution soon! Good luck...

Joe R.
 
We decided to vent outside once we found a space to make a 5.5" hole in the cement where there were no RR ties. What a bugger drilling a 5.5" hole through 8 inches of rock hard cement. Thankfully the contractor did not put re-bar like he was supposed to add.
That cement is thoroughly dried and is rock hard. No doubt the cement is fully cured!

We have a tarp over the opening and the air conditioner is running and being vented through the vent tubing and a smaller piece of PVC pipe inside of that. They have been inside and then outside drilling and chiseling. A part time employee brought over a hammer drill. Even so the temp has been at 71 since this morning and it is 85 outside in the shade.

We think once they get done and close the door, the temp will drop even more than 71 degrees.

Thank you Steve from All in one Pump for your private messages and you very helpful help. It is very much appreciated.

PJD since the drain is all down hill, all 50' of it, there was water in the end of the tubing on the ground this morning.

We are thinking once we get the heat out of the cellar it will remain cooler.
 
Sounds like your making some progress! It may take a day or two to cool the mass down and stabilize it so just a heads up there. Also they make really inexpensive temperature gauges with battery operated wireless remote probe. You can place the sending unit inside the cellar and the readout as much as ~100 ft away and if the house is close enough or patio or garage to set the readout unit you will easily be able to see the outdoor temp and cellar temp simultaneously.
 
Thanks for your help Mike! Many hours later the cellar air conditioner is vented. Not the prettiest looking opening but cemented, sanded and painted it will look better; a fall project when it is cooler. Broke the cement bit on the hammer drill so it was chiseled out by hand. Very hard work!
Now you can see what we were up against. The white on the right is the steel door and there there is only a few inches from the RR ties on the left side.

cellar.vent.jpg
 
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Mike we bought 2 different remote thermometers and neither would pick up from the remote. Cell phone or cordless phone will not pick up in there either. We have no problem with either phones anywhere else on your 2.5 acres, only in the cellar.
 
Please keep us all posted on the results- I think once all the cement cools off to the temperature you are desiring that it will maintain that temp alot more efficiently.
 
We think so too. A lot of bottles of wine to cool down and then it should hold a decent temperature. That should take a couple of days.
 
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