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BER is thought to be caused by lack of calcium, while this is true, more times than not, BER in maters is caused by uneven watering.
Raelene, can you get mycorrhiza in Canada? This is a game changer, it will help to create a colony of roots that will be enormous that will bring in more water and nutrients to your plants.
I would add some epsom salts to the mixture for the tomatoes for a little magnesium boost, and if you can get soluble kelp or seaweed, the plants love this, it is organic, packed with micro nutrients and natural growth hormones.
The size of the onion bulb is dependent upon the number and size of the green leaves or tops at the time of bulbing. For each leaf, there will be a ring of onion. The larger the leaf, the larger the ring will be when the carbohydrates from the leaves are transferred to the rings of the bulb.
Onions need nitrogen, Every 2 to 3 weeks after planting, fertilize with ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) in alkaline soils, or calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) in acidic soils. Sprinkle it on top of the original fertilizer strip at the rate of ½ cup per 10 feet of row. Water the onions after every application. Stop fertilizing when the onions start to bulb.
make sure that you choose a type of onion that will do well in your area.
Raelene, I wish that you were in the states, I would ship you a package of goodies that would make your plants smile..lol...unfortunately, the shipping rates to Canada are unreal!

:)

Tom, you're making this all way too easy for them!

Mycorrhizae are bacteria that live in the soil, pretty essential in organic farming. A game changer, indeed.

If you dont want to use epsom salts on an almost-regular basis, you'll need to mix in some sort of agricultural lime or gypsum, and some kind of oyster/crab shell

Kelp is.. Kelp is a flippin miracle plant :)

If you're harvesting your kelp yourself, you want brown kelp.. And you definitely want to rinse it.. then it can be composted, then mixed into hte soil... Or you can also dry it, break it into 'meal' and use it for other things like aerated compost/botanical teas to water with..


Looks like you guys are scoring, gettin Tom to open up so much :)
 
BER is thought to be caused by lack of calcium, while this is true, more times than not, BER in maters is caused by uneven watering.
Raelene, can you get mycorrhiza in Canada? This is a game changer, it will help to create a colony of roots that will be enormous that will bring in more water and nutrients to your plants.
I would add some epsom salts to the mixture for the tomatoes for a little magnesium boost, and if you can get soluble kelp or seaweed, the plants love this, it is organic, packed with micro nutrients and natural growth hormones.
The size of the onion bulb is dependent upon the number and size of the green leaves or tops at the time of bulbing. For each leaf, there will be a ring of onion. The larger the leaf, the larger the ring will be when the carbohydrates from the leaves are transferred to the rings of the bulb.
Onions need nitrogen, Every 2 to 3 weeks after planting, fertilize with ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) in alkaline soils, or calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) in acidic soils. Sprinkle it on top of the original fertilizer strip at the rate of ½ cup per 10 feet of row. Water the onions after every application. Stop fertilizing when the onions start to bulb.
make sure that you choose a type of onion that will do well in your area.
Raelene, I wish that you were in the states, I would ship you a package of goodies that would make your plants smile..lol...unfortunately, the shipping rates to Canada are unreal!

Thanks Tom! I've copied this into my gardening log for future reference. I generally get one 'leaf' or maybe two from my onion sets. I'm guessing this is a bad thing...do you plant onions from seed? I don't think our growing season is long enough for that.

My girlfriend used the same onion sets as me (I gave her some of mine) and she had gigantic 8" onions! Grrr. As to watering the tomatoes - well, I can see how what we do would be considered 'uneven'. I'll have to work on that this year.

Thanks for the info again! I'm looking forward to hearing more of your advice to all on this thread.
 
I usually start them in Dec or Jan at the latest, I nurse them under a grow light and a min temp of 74°, I'll transplant them in early may.
 
I usually start them in Dec or Jan at the latest, I nurse them under a grow light and a min temp of 74°, I'll transplant them in early may.

Ahhhh. I see!
It looks like the bacteria you mentioned might be available in our local hydroponics shops. I think I'll take a look during my night off this week. Then I can look into a grow light for seedlings too!
 
I am mostly pointing this out because this is a wine forum, but the "myco-" in "mycorrhiza" means that this is a fungus, not a bacterium. You know, from the same Kingdom (fungi) as our beloved yeasts (genus Saccharomyces)? The last -myces in Saccharomyces has the same origin, the Greek word for mushroom.
 
lori we have the saragossa grass..which is some type of seaweed..not sure if i want to get into hauling it....
going to use virgin soil here, so not a big worry about growing anything this year, nest year will be different..will have build the soil up then,
 
James,
build up that soil slowly over the course of a few years, some folks add too much compost, manure, leaves or whatever at one time, the goal is to add just enough that you can incorporate it into your existing soil, some folks do a no till approach, this is the best scenario, but again, it takes years to build up. I tried to help one guy that added 10 inches of manure to his garden, he couldn't grow anything, the plants would take off like crazy, but they never produced any fruit or veggies, there was a nitrogen overload.
Over a 9 year period, I added approx. 110 yards of composted manure to a 3000 sq ft garden, some years I didn't add anything, I would see what my organic matter levels were on the soil test reports and go from there.
If I had the acreage that you are talking about, I'd bring in 20 or so yards of manure and compost it down until next spring and then add it.
 
james by virgin soil I assume you mean it hasn't had any crops on it for a number of years now. I don't think there are any truly virgin soils left in Texas as I am sure somebody at some time grew something on them. I also assume you plan on tilling in the grass or whatever is growing there. Yes as that breaks down it will provide some nutrients, mostly nitrogen and there should be some other nutrients available in the soil. You probably would still do good to get a soil test so you know what is in it. I would test for at least N-P-K or Nitrogen-Phosphorous and Potash(Potassium) along with Calcium and Magnesium. pH would also be provided. This will give you a baseline of available nutrients and the pH should be adjusted for the average crop needs, somewhere around 6.5 - 7.0 would be good for most crops. The soil test will let you know if your "virgin" soil has the basic requirements needed.

Also keep in mind that a lot of "virgin" soils may have a weed seed reserve lying in wait to germinate. Sometimes landowners get quite the surprise when they till a soil that hasn't been cropped in 30 years and are overrun with weeds. Just be prepared and you should enjoy a nice crop of veggies. I don't want to lecture you, just trying to give you a bit of advice as an Agronomist with a lifetime of experience growing crops commercially.

Tom gave you some very good advice and you would do good to follow it.
 
I am mostly pointing this out because this is a wine forum, but the "myco-" in "mycorrhiza" means that this is a fungus, not a bacterium. You know, from the same Kingdom (fungi) as our beloved yeasts (genus Saccharomyces)? The last -myces in Saccharomyces has the same origin, the Greek word for mushroom.

Good catch; dunno where my head was.

There's actually two 'families' or what-have-you (always seem to reply to this thread when im not fully awake lol), of mycorrhizae.. Endo- & Ecto- ; basically meaning 'inside' and 'outside' the root, some have the ability to enter/grow through the root while others just grow around.


Grapeman beat me to the punch of the 'virgin ground'; I'd be highly surprised if theres very many large tracts of land in the US that are still completely untouched, as far as agriculture goes.

Pumpkinman was on-point, with building up the soils slowly.

The object in all of this, is to build humus (HUE-mus), which is the final stage of composted organic material. When humus is attained in the garden/plot, because it wont break down any further, it's said that as long as environmental factors don't change drastically, that the humus should last longer than we will (centuries or more).

It's role in the garden, is a bit of almost everything - it retains micro-films of moisture for the bacteria/fungi - even when the soil appears rather 'dry', enlarges the soil CEC - basically expanding the nutrient carrying capacity of the soil... It just doesnt really provide aeration to the soil, thats about all it's missing.

You may notice (if you havent already, next time you look around) that Mother Nature doesn't plan empty dirt into what she's doing. To keep soil alive, to keep the bacteria and fungi going, they need plant roots to feed them; the soil also needs a break from the intensity of the sun because *most* of the life found in the soil is in the top 6-inches or so and if this dries out its like starting all over, almost.

Plant roots push out exudates - mostly sugars - that attract different soil bacteria and fungi; the plants can actually control the populations of the various soil bacteria/fungi by manipulating the amounts of the types of exudates it produces. This is how a plant feeds naturally. These bacteria and fungi will build up, based on the available exudates, then when predators come along, they simply lived out their life-cycle, or the plant switches the amounts of available foods, those larger, now-unsustainable populations will begin to decline. In this decline is decomposition, and this decomposition provides the plant-available nutrients.

If, however, theres no roots, then theres nothing for which the soil life can feed on & it simply moves away (if it can) or dies off. Some of these bacteria and fungi will 'cyst' up, until the environmental conditions are more favorable and they'll become active again. Repeated die-offs/cystings can throw unbalance into the populations of various micro-organisms, causing a further unbalance in plant-available nutrients, and the process involved with making the missing nutrients more prevalent (hard to do when those micro-organisms died off in large numbers).

This is why, a few pages back, I suggested to James that he may have better luck trying to establish some fruit trees alongside his cover crops or other gardening ventures. Texas heat can fry just about anything, I'm sure, and most plants we consider valuable, wont be able to stand it. Trees are built to take abuse though, as rarely is there anything between them and the harshness of the sun. Anything less than a 'full-sun' plant, would do better in Texas, under some shade, as anything over 90-95F tends to shut-down the plants ability to breathe and grow.

These trees would also supply a long-term source/home for beneficial bacteria and fungi, refuges of a sort. With the trees providing filtered sunlight to the plants below, this would enable those plants to be more vigorous and provide more for eating/composting/ground cover, but also larger root systems to spread-out the soil life, nutrients, and eventually aeration when those stronger roots decay.


:)

I could keep babbling but this probably already looks like a short essay..
 
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I am truly envious that so many of you have so much room to garden. I live in Southern California so space living in the city is limited so I do what I can with the space that I have. Yes, my wife and I have thought of moving some where with more room and the prices of homes are cheaper but our family is here so here we will stay.

My Father was a gardener so I was introduced to gardening a long time ago. Years later, as an educator, I went on a tour of some of Japans Universities where I was smitten by the beauty of the Japanese gardens.

Since I have some pretty good woodworking skills and gardening skills, I put together a Japanese garden. That being said, it has not been easy hiding my vegetables, fruit trees, grape vines and various flowers and other fruit bearing bushes but I have done pretty well as East meets West.

I have also dabbled in Bonsai which is very complicated and over my head but I do the best I can. Does anyone out there involve themselves in the art of Bonsai? Deezil? are you game?

I still do a goodly amount of volunteering and am currently working on creating a meditation garden for a local school so the children can plant vegetables and learn about other things than the 3R's. They get so excited and thrilled to see their first radishes grow and when they get to harvest what they grow, they are so excited to take them home to show their parents.

I still love gardening and always will but now that I am in the "middle earlies." I have had to cut back as keeping track of when to plant, what needs what micronutrients at what time of year has become quite time consuming and just the physical requirements can be daunting.

Years ago, I did some traveling around the country and so many of you come from such fantastic states with such wondrous seasons and foliage-Wow!

Now that I have begun winemaking, All the skills I learned from teaching along with keeping logs, pages of notes, books from gardening will help me become a better winemaker.

"Fruit and Flower show the Magic of the mind-Luther Burbank"
Corinth:db
 
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I have also dabbled in Bonsai which is very complicated and over my head but I do the best I can. Does anyone out there involve themselves in the art of Bonsai? Deezil? are you game?

This is actually one of the next things I'll be learning about this summer-ish. If you've taken a look through my PNW Wine Garden thread, you'll see there's a few pictures of things I dont make wine from - Fuchsias.

My grandpa, my mom's dad, was the major inspiration behind my green-thumb. Growing up, we'd go to Grandpa's house (Grandma lived there too, but Grandpa built it, so..) and behind the house was the Garden; tomatoes as 'big as your face' (when you're five), strawberries that filled your palm, pumpkins worthy of carving... cucumbers that you'd end up eating because Grandpa made you, after you broke it trying to use it as a sword.

My mom, being the eldest, helped build the house and put in the garden - it rubbed off on her, and with me being the oldest and remembering the days pre-Autism, it rubbed off on me.. It's one of the last fragments of life I have left, from before it all went 'down the tubes' :)

Grandpa's gone now; and all I have left is one last fuchsia that refuses to give up.

So this year, I'll be getting some more starts - like I got some last year - and doing various things with them. One is attempting to bonzai, as it was something my Grandpa did in his later years, after they sold the house and bought another without such a large garden.. He also made fuchsia Standards (3ft trees), so I'll be trying my hand at that as well..

Successes and failures will be shared, in the PNW Wine Garden thread
 
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NO...all the advice is good advice...
This paticular land was never used to grow crops it was used as a pig pen for about 25 years...it was sausage factory in the early 1900s.
The soil is not compacted, and is very dark with some sand in it..
about 24 inches below the topsoil is about 2 foot of shell left over from when the gulf covered it.
i hit fresh water at about 4 feet.
I was going to do an acre, but after looking, I think i will do a lot less then and acre. and rotate every year.
I have free water, so im putting in a irrigation system.
Driving post and fence in for beans,cucumbers,tomatoes
I grew up pretty much eating out of a garden, and freezing what we didnt eat..
I think the overall size will be about will be about 100 feet by 150 feet.
Plan to do the normal...
plus another for watermelon,cantaloups,honeydew melons.
All ready have a huge herb garden.
I have access to all the free mulch i want, and all the seaweed i can haul.
I grew up on a farm, so i am pretty versed in growing food. just not with all the smarts as you guys.
 
Deezil,
With all your knowledge, I think Bonsai would be a great addition. It takes a lot of reading and studying but I am convinced you and others would be very good at it--better than me.
The enthusiasts who dedicate themselves to the art of Bonsai are very well versed in the types of trees they choose based on the climate they live in.
They also are pretty hard core about their soil components and really know their fertilizers from the typical N-P-K to the secondary nutrients and the micronutrients.
I am convinced that so many of you have so much skill in wine making, there is a definite carry-over effect.
I am definitely learning and have killed plenty of small trees in my on-going education.
James: I think you said if you cannot eat it, you do not grow it. Well, there are small pomegranate trees with ripe pomegranates about 1/2 inch!
Lastly, though Bonsai is definitely an outdoor art form, there are plenty of indoor bonsai such as the Ficus benjamina and the Hawaiian umbrella plant.
As time passes, one can always do miniature bonsai.
Thank You Deezil (Doumo arigato gozamashita)for sharing with us some very meaningful memories.
I know I am being sentimental but I think that fuscia has a lot of spiritual meaning to it as we all tend to our gardens and share with others what it harvests.
Sincerely,
ed
 
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decided to do three plots each about 30 x 45...one down, two to go..worried about the peacocks eating every thing.not real sure what they will and will not eat.
the fence rows you see are solid blackberry vines, i measured all of them today and theres about 1500 linear feet times two.
runningwolf...you never will see a picture of me....i do not like my picture taking at all. and I dont like taking pictures either..its kinda mundane to me.

before.jpg

tilled.jpg
 
Clarification for running wolf....I do not like taking pictures with my phone..because I can hardly see them ...I do like my dslr but I do not take with me all the time, probably be stolen the day i forget to hide under the seat, when parked somewhere.
we have a lot of car break ins here at the parking lots.
 
James that soil looks really nice. The big chain link gate is that to protect the garden or is that a separate cage? Those blackberries are insane. I had thorn-less ones that were growing like that and I tore them all out as they kept sending up shoots everywhere. What are you going to plant? I bet tomato's would grow like crazy there. By the way nice pictures.
 

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