Gardening

Winemaking Talk - Winemaking Forum

Help Support Winemaking Talk - Winemaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well as I read through your posts an go "I grow that and that..." Hehe I'm not going to repeat a long list of veggies etc! But I will say thy we do grow hops an they are quite easy to grow an hubby uses to in his beer and it is quite proliferating so we don't use all our harvest so I just freeze them in ziplocks to use over winter.

I will be definitely growing blackberries this year and maybe some haskaps and definitely cherries. Also Marquette grapes. Don't have too many issues with critters as I have a large dog guarding everything for the most part and a hubby with a shotgun. Mainly for groundhogs as we can't have them digging holes and having horses breaking legs in them!
 
I think I may be too old for this!

Thank goodness i"m off tomorrow because I'm not sure I'll be able to move.

Today we raked out our asparagus bed and the driveway. The bed runs beside our driveway and it's 40ft by 3 ft. We scratched up the soil on the surface, and put down fertilizer and a wee bit more soil to compensate for wash off/compaction, etc.
Every year we put down cardboard in the garden walkways and the driveway, then cover them with mulch. Earthworms love cardboard, we aren't disturbing the soil, the cardboard and mulch eventually breakdown, we have zero weeding (seriously, no weeding at all) and we've improved the soil with only a minimal amount of effort. We get the cardboard and mulch for free which is also a plus.

We also went to Sam's club and got one of their heavy duty metal shelving units, then went to Lowe's and got a couple of fluorescent light fixtures/bulbs for me to start some seeds this week.
It's almost time!!
 
Today we raked out our asparagus bed and the driveway. The bed runs beside our driveway and it's 40ft by 3 ft. We scratched up the soil on the surface, and put down fertilizer and a wee bit more soil to compensate for wash off/compaction, etc. It's almost time!!

I turned over my box beds today. It was SO beautiful here!

Jeri I'm curious. Last year I planted 6 Asparagus plants in my boxes. I have never grown it before but I understand they don't really produce till the 2nd or 3rd year. Over the summer they grew tall and looked a lot like Dill. I cut them back periodically and this winter, they got very dry like most weeds.
What I did last week was cut them down to about 8" and then worked the dried stems into the soil today.
I know I am going to have to move them because they are taking up too much valuable box space.So I'm wondering if that is safe and is there anything I should be doing to them? I just kind of went with intuition on this by cutting them back.
 
I spent the last 4 years building up a small urban raised veggie and herb garden and now we have moved and I have to start over.

2013-05-24_07-42-04_314 websm.jpg

herb_websmall.jpg
 
I spent the last 4 years building up a small urban raised veggie and herb garden and now we have moved and I have to start over.

That was beautiful. You have some really nice looking squash plants.
It's sad to see all the hard work going to a new owner who may not even care to garden.
 
My friend and I are doing a girl's night in next weekend: take-away, gardening catalogs, drafting pencils and diagrams, canning books, etc. And wine of course!

I'm so looking forward to it, and to getting my seed order in! Then it's just hurry up and wait.
 
Raelene I got my seed order in on Friday. Now I'm just waiting for my little pots to get here and then I'll be in business!

Lori, we let our asparagus die down completely in the fall/winter, then cut the stalks off a couple of inches about the ground. We do cut ours back usually when they get over my head, though this last year a couple went taller than Manthing and he's 6ft 2. You don't want to do it too much but we haven't noticed a problem doing it once or twice a season.

I've heard that asparagus do not like to be moved once they are established but we bought two year old crowns our first year and planted them. They did fine so I don't know how true it is about moving them.
We harvested nothing the first year, about 10 spears the second year and last year we picked continually for about two months or so. We planted forty crowns and if we had the room, I'd plant at least forty more.

They are heavy feeders and require a potassium fertilizer twice a year. Scratch down lightly in the bed, apply fertilizer then water well.
 
Jericurl,

Sorry for taking so long to reply, I didn't want to bore anyone, but here it goes.

Just an FYI regarding the cardboard, it will breakdown, and the worms will help to process it much like the paper bedding used in some home worm farms, what you need to be careful of is the amount of nitrogen used up (from the soil) to break it down, the same thing goes for mulch used in flower beds, it is very pretty and helps to keep the moisture in during the spring and summer and the keeps the frost from damaging roots in the winter in cooler climates, but as it breaks down its "steals" nitrogen from the soil.
The good news is that most generic fertilizers contain some level of nitrogen, which will help to replace what is being used.

Do we all know how to pick out a fertilizer, how to tell what level of nutrients it contains the NPK?
Knowing this is extremely important, plants have different nutrient needs during different growth phases, for instance, during the initial growth phase, seedlings need not only nitrogen for green growth, but phosphorous for root development, cell division and development of new tissue, and Potassium aids in the uptake and movement of other nutrients in the plant, and so on, what is lacking are other vital micro and macro nutrients such as Calcium, Magnesium, Boron, Sulfur, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc just to name a handful.

Most generic fertilizers only worry about providing the NPK - Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium, think Miracle Grow, this can work very well producing big plants at the expense of the root system and the soil biology as a whole.

With a little work you can have great soil that will produce for you without having to go totally organic if you choose.

Your geographical location will give a picture of what your soil is like, clay, loam, sandy loam and so on.
If you are like most gardeners, you will have added some compost to the soil over the years, this will have changed the soil structure, if you till or have had the garden sub soiled, this will have changed it dramatically as well.

The only way to find out exactly what your soil composition is, and what you need to balance your nutrients is to send a sample in to be tested/analyzed.
Spring is just around the corner, a simple $30.00 test can lead to the best gardening season that you've ever had, once your soil is balanced, you will need much less fertilizers.

Most of us fall into the habit of thinking that we are fertilizing plants. Except for foliar fertilizer, we do not fertilize plants… we fertilize soil. Because of this, soil chemistry will determine how much of the applied nutrients the plants will be able to take up.

After reading hundreds of soil test report results and countless tissue test results, we have a clear picture of which nutrients are used up the fastest, during key growth phases and how certain plants react/respond to calculated applications of these nutrients.

I won't go into the more complicated topics such as how an unbalanced nutrients can lead to nutrients being locked up and effecting the nutrient uptake, each nutrient is dependent upon other nutrients which can have a major impact on everything from yields to plant health, disease resistance, pest resistance and more.

Ok, if you are still awake after that and still have some interest, let me know, it is difficult to try to put all of this info into a sequential order that will make sense without it becoming overwhelming.

This is part of what I did to help competitive growers become successful, but we also helped Greens keepers (golf courses), nurseries, landscapers, and small farms get the most out of their applications, their lively hood depended on it.
 
got into this whole crazy mess with to much produce. Couldnt give enough away. Its amazing what you can grow if you feed it. I like to use 2 year old chicken manure that is turned twice yearly. On the 4th turn it is dumped on the garden in the fall and the chickens are let loose to turn it into the soil. Still eating fresh onions, carrots, and potatoes. Have enough peppers, green beans, peas, corn, spinach, stewed tomatoes, and broccolli either frozen or canned to last till mid summer. The veggies go great with our home raised chickens, beef, and pork.

Welcome to the homestead
what's your trick to getting such great looking carrots? I've never had success with them.
 
Pumpkinman,

Thank you, this is all fantastic information.

We used amended topsoil to fill in all our raised beds so I never really thought about having the soil tested. Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure our county extension office will do it for free. It's not very far from Manthing's work so I may send him with a sample tomorrow.

I do try to keep track of what specific fertilizer needs most of my plants require, but I admit that I should keep better notes and an actual fertilizing schedule.
Last year we added alfalfa pellets (just rabbit food) to the raised beds as the guy at the extension office told us that they pretty much dissolve the moment they get wet and it adds plenty of nitrogen to the soil. I never thought about adding it under the cardboard/mulch for the walkways because I never really ...well, cared about the soil underneath since we weren't actually growing in it. I should probably start doing that though, since we could change the configuration of our garden at anytime. Rabbit food is cheap so it wouldn't really be an investment.

We save our eggshells and crush them, then add that and epsom salt to every hole we dig to plant our tomatoes and peppers in.

Holy crap I sound like a hippie.

I think I've been using "greener" methods to fertilize because I'm always afraid I will over do it with commercial methods and kill the plants.
 
That was beautiful. You have some really nice looking squash plants.
It's sad to see all the hard work going to a new owner who may not even care to garden.

I hope the new owners will take advantage of my hard work building up a compost pile and three large beds with irrigation.

I am not too sad though. The new place is a 100 plus year old farm from the wife's family that we have started some grape vines. I have about 150 vines planted and more on order for the spring. Now that I live here it will be easier to focus on both the vineyard and a garden.
 
Yes Pumpkinman, that was great information. You can chime in anytime with your knowledge of gardening and growing. I'm sure you didn't get to championship pumpkin status from Miracle gro.
 
I had a huge vegetable garden two years ago that was way over abundant. Unfortunately last year was pretty much a bust. I didn't get anything planted until July because of our cold wet spring. I'm hoping this year will be much better.

Here's my gardening blog with videos and pictures from a couple years ago.

http://greginnd.com/greggrows/
 
Very impressive video of your garden, Greg. Wow, would I like to have all those zucchini and not for the vegetable but for the flowers! If you have never done so, take the flowers, remove the stem, open the flower and insert a piece of your favorite cheese, like Asiago, Mozzarella, etc. and an anchovy if you like them. Mix up a batter similar to pancake batter and coat the stuffed flowers. Fry them in a little olive oil until golden brown and enjoy them with a white wine. Really great eating.

Also, I see you have a lot of beets. Do you eat the beet greens? They have a lot of nutrients and are very low calorie. I just steam them, add salt, pepper and garlic and a touch (1/3 T) of olive oil.
 
Yes, I eat the beet greens as much as I can. But I usually have way too much to eat. I also grow swiss chard which is essentially the same thing without the beet. I also juice my raw greens and vegetables a lot.
 
hey all, im new here but i figured i chime in.

i do a lot of gardening. im a professional chef and growing food just seems to come with the territory. on top of my love for food, i am a medical cannabis patient with a license to grow my own medicine.

i have an indoor grow area consisting of 3 separate light proof compartments. i like to start all my veggies and herbs in the indoor area for a while before planting season. starting under a pair of t-5 florescent bulbs along with a pair of 4 ft LED strips, moving up to a 400watt metal halide, then to a 1000watt high pressure sodium leaves me with full grown veggies to plant outside when the spring brakes.

once its time to plant outside, i have some water timers and some leaching hose that i use to automatically water everyone at set times. things like tomatoes and peppers, i plant (full grown plants) in old plastic barrels and run them pretty much hydroponically. herbs usually go right into the ground and make up the most of what i grow. being a chef, i tend to use herbs very liberally in everything i cook. i have been contemplating trying some potatoes using the "old car tire" method of vertical gardening.

i also acquired a used Bonzai Rotating Hydroponic System (http://4hydroponics.com/site/bonzai-rotating-gardens) a few years ago but have never even put it together. my hope is to grow all my cooking herbs in it one day. cool contraption tho.

anyway, just figured id jump in lol. have a great day fellow gardeners!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hydro vegetables, yea rightttttttttttt...
lol
dont even need a license to grow hydro vegetables in colorado now.
I tried hydro tomatoes...did not like them as well as the ones in the ground, just tasted different.
 
hydro vegetables, yea rightttttttttttt...
lol
dont even need a license to grow hydro vegetables in colorado now.
I tried hydro tomatoes...did not like them as well as the ones in the ground, just tasted different.

lol. Colorado is a beautiful place to be right now. i wasn't using vegetables as a cover up or anything. i grow very beautiful MJ too, got some great strains. i just happen to have a hydro set up going already and love to grow food so it made sense to start everything in the grow room. and again, because of the MJ growing, hydroponics is what im comfortable with. i don't grow aeroponically tho, so i do use soil. well, kinda. its peat/perlite/vermiculite soil-less soil.
 
Jericurl,
I've had to brow my veggies in containers for years, huge containers, my tomatoes would be planted in 20 gallon containers (think just about the size of half of a 55 gallon drum), and my peppers in 15 gallon containers. The tomato plants always grew to at least 6-7 feet tall and approx. 4 ft wide, loaded with tomatoes, the peppers would grow to approx 5-6 ft on average, we could easily harvest 15-25 huge bells per plant. The key was in the soil less mixture that I mixed up by hand, this is where many container growers go wrong, they want to pack the container full of a Miracle grow type potting soil and wonder why the plants don't produce massive yields.

Soil fills only a few needs in container culture. Among them are: Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Retention - It must retain enough nutrients in available form to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to move through the root system and by-product gasses to escape. Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants can be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water. I'll always opt to plant in a well balanced soil over containers, but when you can't at least you have the option of making the best possible soiless medium.
Soil compaction is the biggest culprit of failed container growing, poor drainage will lead to soil compaction, plants that die because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.
We can talk about a proven soiless medium for container growing if there is interest.
Anyway, I'll stop there in hopes that someone is still awake after reading this...lol
Jericurl, make sure that you get a complete soil test, that usually is a basic soil analysis, plus soluble salts, excess lime, nitrate-nitrogen, Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu, and B. Being able to see the CEC and nitrogen levels is just as important, unfortunately, over the years I've found that the soil tests, that the local extensions do are usually very inaccurate, and a lot of times are done by inexperienced interns, I highly recommend a testing facility such as A&L labs in Modesto California.
If you decide to get a soil test, I'd be happy to read it and make recommendations on balancing your soil, can you tell that I enjoy soil biology, and gardening in general...lol
 

Latest posts

Back
Top