Mosti Mondiale LaBodega Port

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David,


I definitely plan to use Stavin French House toast cubes. But I'll also use the chips first, and thenadd the cubes after degassing and stabilizing and let it bulk age for two months.


Thanks for the response George.Edited by: dfwwino
 
just take care not to overoak or you could spoil for a long time a very nice port!


sure if you "overoak" ya can always make another kit later and make it without oak just to mix it with the overoaked kit...


remember that stavin cube are just awesome
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and since it's cube you can wait longer before removing the cube to make it more oakier.


Im sure you will love the ending product
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I've got my Port on French House Toast. I didn't have a way to weigh it. So, I just put in a half cup by volume of the oak. How long should I leave it on the oak? I know taste it and see. The problem is that I'm trying not to taste the Port or Amarone because I'll end up tasting it daily.
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I just need some kind of timeline for when to start? I'm writing a poem about my wine. It starts, "Wine Wine everywhere and not a drop to drink!" It's very original.
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You guys have me drooling over this thread and I will have to make this kit(2 of them to make 6 gallons) 1 of my next purchases, Im still waiting for my Choc Rasp Port kits to come in.
 
A62Rambler said:
I've got my Port on French House Toast. I didn't have a way to weigh it. So, I just put in a half cup by volume of the oak. How long should I leave it on the oak? I know taste it and see. The problem is that I'm trying not to taste the Port or Amarone because I'll end up tasting it daily.
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I just need some kind of timeline for when to start? I'm writing a poem about my wine. It starts, "Wine Wine everywhere and not a drop to drink!" It's very original.
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Stavin suggets at least 2 month.


so basically let them in tehre for 1 month and sample once a week.
you will easily taste the difference between standard chip/cube/beans and stavin product. there is a distinc barrel taste that i havent seen yet in any other cubes.


probably the "3 years seasoning outside" has something to do with the awesome taste.
 
Thanks Dave,
I was hoping I wouldn't get to taste that soon. I am going to bulk age this for at least 6 months. If I taste at one month it may never make it.
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The raisins add 1% alcohol in 23 liters or 2% in 12 liters. I think we found the missing alcohol!
 
Now if someone could tell me how much alcohol I added when I put 750ml of 40 proof brandy in it I would know how much is in my 12L port?
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Edited by: A62Rambler
 
That would be 1.25% alcohol increase (750ml x 20%A= 150ml alcohol/12000ml= .0125= 1.25%)alcohol added. Might no be precise, but close enough. Edited by: appleman
 
Yes david, I used 20% for the calculation. The 40 is proof- about double the ABV. It's not exact, but close enough- but then again I did calculate it at 6:30 in the morning and might not have been awake good yet!
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Masta, you want to weigh in on this one?
 
Based on these calculators on Jack's website, adding 750 ml of 40 proof (20% abv) to 12 L of Port (Using 16% abv as a base) would only increase the abv by ~.235 %.


You would need 4 L of 40% Brandy to raise the abv of 12L of 16% Port a full 1% to a final abv of 17%.


http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/blending.asp





Edited by: masta
 
The question I have for Rambler is whether it is 40 proof brandy or brandy with 40% alcohol. I always thought most brandy was 80 proof. If you boost with 80 proof brandy, you will be using 40% alcohol, which would increase your calculation. (According to Keller's calculator, that would boost 16% base to 17.4117%). If you add 375 ml of 80 proof brandy and 375 ml of Everclear (190 proof), you will get just over 19% alcohol, presuming your base is16%. Edited by: dfwwino
 
Masta is right on this. I wasn't considering the starting point of the original base. The lower the base alcohol, the higher the percent of increase. For instance a 12% base with the same 750 ml addition would bring the final product to 12.470% an increase of .470% in this case.


18% base would end up at 18.117% or about .117 % increase.


So the moral of the story is, if you want to get a 20% port, just drink 40 proof brandy!
 
I plan to boost with a 375 ml of Everclear and 375 of E & J VSOP Brandy (80 proof).
 
Let's see if I can get this formatted right to show how Jack's calculations work.


12000ml@ 16% = 1920 ml alcohol


1920ml + 150ml = 2070ml =16.235%
--------- ------- ----------
12000ml 750 12750ml






Are we all confused yet?
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Maybe I will just have two glasses of the 16% port and save buying the extra bottle
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Edited by: appleman
 
I must say that calculator on Jack's website is very handy. After playing with the calculator, I've determined thatif you want an ending point of 19% alcohol starting with a base of 16%, add 375 ml 80 proof brandy and 375 ml 190 proof Everclear. If you want an ending point of 20%, add 500 ml of 80 proof brandy and 500 ml of 190 proof Everclear.
 
Proof is a US thing since we have to be different than the rest of the world!
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Short Version:


Proof is roughly double the alcohol by volume (abv). Hard liquor sold in the US is labeled with proof but always has the abv listed also.


Long Version:


In the United States, the proof of an alcoholic beverage is twice its alcohol content expressed as percentage by volume at 60°F. So an 80-proof whiskey is 40% alcohol. Recently the United States has begun to label bottles containing wine and spiriits with the percentage of alcohol by volume, instead of proof.


In Europe a different proof system, called Gay-Lussac, is used; it is also the percentage of alcohol by volume, which is half the American proof. The European Union has adopted Gay-Lussac proof as its standard.


In Great Britain the situation is much more complicated. A distilled spirit was originally “proved” by one of several methods. One method involved dissolving gunpowder in the spirit and trying to ignite it. If it wouldn't burn, there was too much water. If it burned evenly and steadily, the spirit was "proven."


Later a legal standard for proof spirit was defined: half rainwater and half spirit proven by the gunpowder method. Such proof spirit was deemed to weigh 7 pounds, 12 ounces per gallon, with a specific gravity of 0.923 at 51° Fahrenheit. A hydrometer introduced in 1725, Clarke's hydrometer, became the standard way tax collectors determined proof. By 1762 this hydrometer was even mentioned in the law defining the standard gallon of spirits, six parts spirits and one part water by weight, and weighing 7 pounds, 13 ounces at 50° Fahrenheit.


A hydrometer, however, can only determine the composition of a water-alcohol mixture if it contains only water and alcohol–and there are other complicating factors, especially temperature. By adding sweeteners, such as molasses, importers could evade the tax on higher proof spirits. After decades of controversy, on 6 January 1817 a different hydrometer, Sike's, was made the legal method for determining proof.


By Sike's hydrometer, proven spirits were at least 57.1% alcohol by volume (49.28% by weight). The British proof system is built on this number. “Proof” spirits, or 100-proof spirits, are 57.1% alcohol by volume. Proofs above and below 100-proof are sometimes referred to as so many degrees under proof or over proof. American 100-proof whiskey, for example, might be called either “87.5-proof” or “12.5 under proof.” For a quick conversion of British proof to American, multiply the British proof by 8, then divide by 7.


Thus the same beverage may be 40 proof (Gay-Lussac), 80 proof (American), or 70 proof (British), depending on where you are drinking it.Edited by: masta
 
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