cleaning bottles

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The etching is, as Peter says, comes from abrasives in the detergent. As for steam coming from the open door, it doesn't indicate sterilization. You get steam when you go outside on a cold day and breathe out and I'm sure it's not sterilization!!!
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Thank you hanna! Yes there are dishwashers that will sterilize but most arent and most plastics would not survive these temps in a dishwasher during sterilization. To achieve sterility an object must be sustained to a temp of 273.2* F for 15 minutes. Liquids and instuments wrapped in cloth will take longer to reach those temps.

This was copied and pasted from Wikipedia.


"Dishwashers do not sterilize the utensils, as proper sterilization requires autoclaving
at 121 °C with pressurized wet steam for at least 15 minutes.
Commercial dishwashers can use one of two types of sanitizing methods:
hot water sanitizing (using final rinse water at a temperature of at
least 83 °C (180 °F)), or chemical sanitizing (by injecting chlorine in
the final rinse water). Not all dishwashers are capable of reaching the
high temperature required for hot water sanitizing. Medical grade
dishwashers and sanitizers are starting to use ultrasonic cleaners<sup>[citation needed]</span></sup>, which use a liquid bath treated with sonics to remove particles and sterilize instruments.


Most consumer dishwashers use a 75°C thermostat in the sanitizing
process. During the final rinse cycle, the heating element and wash
pump are turned on, and the cycle timer (electronic or
electromechanical) is stopped until the thermostat is tripped. At this
point, the cycle timer resumes and will generally trigger a drain cycle
within a few timer increments.


Most consumer dishwashers use 75°C rather than 83°C for reasons of
burn risk, energy consumption, total cycle time, and possible damage to
plastic items placed inside the dishwasher. With new advances in
detergents, lower water temperatures (50-55°C) are needed to prevent
premature decay of the enzymes used to eat the grease and other
build-ups on the dishes. This also saves energy and can allow the
washer to be hooked directly to the hot water supply for the house."


Edited by: wade
 
Let's remember, folks, that none of what we do involved sterilizing anything. The important thing is to get the glass clean, and then use the SO2 to inhibit the growth of harmful organisms. As Wade points out, true sterilization requires wet steam at 121C for 15 minutes. This is how hospitals sterilize surgical instruments. A dishwasher on heat dry,on bottles with no visible deposits, is plenty for our purposes. Operating room sterility is impossible in a normal home - or winery.


On the hard water issue, most of the "etching" is actually hard water deposits left on the glass. The vinegar rinse approach will indicate whether it is true etching or just calcium carbonate deposits from hard water. True etching of glass requires either hydrofluoric acid (HF) or concentrated caustic soda (NaOH). HF will never be found in your drinking water. NaOH could occur if your municipal water supply is cold lime softened and not aerated after softening. It is not common, and I'm not sure anyone is doing that any more.
 
Agreeded! Now that we have covered the basics of cleaning, we can get techinical.
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Although everyone else and their mother has had their say on this, I do have one thing to add about removing labels. This may not be a method that I would recommend for everyone, but it works.
First of all, as previously stated several times, soak the bottles in HOT water. I usually like to let them soak for 1 to 3 hours. Then start scraping. Don't worry about any glue at this point. You just want to get the paper off.


Once that is done, you need to get yourself a can of Gasket Remover from your local auto parts store. This is the part that some people may not want to try, as gasket remover is some pretty nasty stuff. You will need to wear rubber gloves and a mask, and work in a well ventilated area (not the kitchen). Spray it on the glue and it will foam up and stick there. Let it sit for about 5 minutes and wipe it off with a paper towel. That's it. 95% of all glues will come right off, no scrubbing required. I need to stress the importance of being careful with this stuff though. I once sprayed some on a woodtick that I found crawling on my leg and it was reduced to a small ball of brown goo in about 30 seconds.


Obviously, if you use this stuff you will need to thoroughly wash and sterilize the bottles afterword. But that subject I think has already been covered quite extensively in this thread.Edited by: whino-wino
 
I just took a look at the MSDS for Permatex Gasket Remover. It is mostly dichloromethane aka methylene chloride. While this is a suspect carcinogen, it is also the best organic solvent there is. I can't imagine a label glue that it won't remove. They used to sell it in cans in the hardware store, but don't anymore. Thanks, whino, for clueing me into another source.
 
What about Goof Off? It melts bottle label glue almost instantly with a paper towel. It smells like most solvents do, but it mainly evaporates, and then you can wash the bottle thoroughly afterward. With just being able to squeeze some on a paper towel and then wipe the glue right off, (after soaking the paper off), you won't get any bad stuff inside the bottle.
 
One last question on OxyClean. There are a couple of different "flavors" of the product and the one I have is called "Versatile" and says "Stain Remover, Chlorine Free." Is that what you all are using? The reason I ask is that I had something happen once when using the product that has caused me concern. I had several bottles in a plastic sink filled with hot water and OxyClean and after a few hours, I found a residual coating on the bottles that would come off with scrubbing, but I was reluctant to use the bottles because I did not know what was happening inside the bottles. I was wondering if I am using the "wrong" OxyClean. Thanks.
 
I have used goof off before and it did work great. Not sure if it will harm you or not.
 
Need help to avoid future Cuts!

I was scrapping lables last night and did a nice gash in my thumb scrapping labels with a razor blade.

Some come off nicely with just warm oxycleen. I like those. I have to try some solvents on some of the glue that does not come off, but my concern is what to use in the future to avoid repeating this with my labels.

What do i use to glue on my labels? I'd like them come off easily. Any recommendation to glue on paper labels?
 
I personally use a paint marker for those within friends, I have noticed from other people that they have used milk to hold their labels on or glue sticks.
 
I personally use a paint marker for those within friends, I have noticed from other people that they have used milk to hold their labels on or glue sticks.

I had to look up paint marker, I've not used one. so you just write on the bottle with the paint marker? and then it washes off easily?
 
I've been using staples brand glue sticks. Comes off with just hot water. I've heard that elmers brand is the only brand NOT good to use.
 
Sorry about your cut.

Do you use a good holder for your razor blade? I would never try just holding the blade with my fingers. (If you saw all the scars on my hands you'd know why) I bought the best retractable razor blade holder and it works great and safely. Don't get the cheap holder, the blade will collapse into it after a short while.
 
cconti said:
I soak my in very hot water and use a dull knife they come off easy

I do the same and then use a Brillo pad to get the remaining glue off. The Brillo pad does not scratch the glass.
 

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