Apple Wine

[darrenlm]

Ive started a 6 gallon batch of Apple Wine. I intend to finish this sweet as an icewine style dessert wine. I obtained 6 gallons of fresh cider from a orchard near me and am following the recipe below. I'll provideas many pictures as possiblefor this batch. I had to make due with this picture using an old digital camera so sorry for the dark picture, it's all I had


Recipe


6 gallons cider


1 TSP/gal yeast nutrient (6 TSP total)


1/8 TSP/gal Pectic Enzyme (3/4 TSP total)


1.5 TSP/gal Acid Blend (9 TSP total)


1/4 TSP/gal Grape Tannin (1.5 TSP total)


All ingredients are currently mixed and stirred well into my primary awaiting the 24 hour mark at which I'll be pitching a packet of Lalvin EC-1118.


The initial SG of the untouched cider was 1.048 (~6% ABV)


The mustwas chaptalized to 1.112 (~15% ABV)


This took 10 lbs of sugar dissolved into the must.

 

[masta]

When I first saw the amount of acid blend you added it looked like way too much but depending on the TA of the cider it might be ok if you finish it sweet.


A quick calculation I did shows the 9 tsp of acid blend should have increased the TA by .2%. The cider I get at my local mill is .60% TA so this would give you .80% TA which would be ok with a very sweet wine.


Did you test the TA?


You really didn't need so much nutrient but shouldn't hurt it.


How do you plan to sweeten?

 

[darrenlm]

The guy at my local brew shop said there was no need to worry with the acid testing since I was using cider, and following the recipe was ok.I was going to ferment until dry and then sweeten with simple sugar syrup at bottling.


I just checked the must and it already started to ferment without the Lalvin added, so Im going to let it go the next few hours under natural yeast and then pitch in tonight

 

[masta]

So the cider has not been pasteurized at all if it is fermenting already. Did the guy at the local brew shop suggest adding sulfite to kill off the natural yeast so there wouldn't be any competition for the Lalvin EC-1118?


Not saying this won't work just fine but just curious as to the method.

 

[Hippie]

I agree with Masta. Also, I do not understand the addition of extra tannin. That sounds like alot of tannin. Have you thought of sweetening up after stabilizing with some of the same cider or juice?

 

[MedPretzel]

I am interested as to how this turns out. I just started an apple wine myself, and am thinking about going a lot sweeter than previous batches.





Don't worry about the ascorbic acid.


Campden? Well, I personally would have added some, but that's just me - it doesn't mean that yours won't be fine. I'm just overly paranoid, I guess. The tannin to me sounds... okay... I have made apple with more and less tannin, and honestly, I never really noticed a difference.





Question, though about the yeast: Why EC 1118? Do you know what properties it has that makes it good for apple wine? If you don't know, don't worry!

I'm just curious!





Thanks, and your must looks GREAT!

 

[darrenlm]

Only reason for the 1118 was that the recipe said to use it. I would love to have a yeast chart with some information if anyone knows where one is.

 

[Hippie]

Google Lalvin maybe.

 

[Curt]

Darren,


If you are looking for the intense flavors in an icewine you might consider sweetening back with frozen apple juice concentrate and add it right out of the cans with no water added.

 

[Hippie]

Very good idea. Thanks Curt.

 

[darrenlm]

Any opinions on stirring this must?


I just gave it a good stir and checked the SG, down to 1.074

 

[Hippie]

If it is a juice only must, no need to stir, but you can if you want. You should have stirred until your arm nearly fell off after mixing all the ingredients and before pitching the yeast, but no need to after that.

 

[darrenlm]

Just checked the SG, 1.040. The recipe Im following recommends racking into the secondary between 1.030 and 1.040. I know kits say to go all the way to 1.010. Any recommendations on extending primary fermentation?

 

[MedPretzel]

I personally don't think it really matters if you transfer it now or later. I am sure the experts can give you all the pros and cons, but it's never really made a difference in my wines.


I like to rack wines to the carboy when they're about 1.040 or so because thre is less chance for contact with air. But that's just me.


Waiting til the SG hits 1.010, however, would avoid the fact that at 1.040 the wine could still bubble out the carboy's neck.

Yes, that has happened to me before (shhh, on more than one occasion!).


I am sure Hippe, Masta, and otherscould add their expert advice.

Sorry I could not help you more.





Martina

 

[Waldo]

Only reason for the 1118 was that the recipe said to use it. I would love to have a yeast chart with some information if anyone knows where one is.

May not be exactly what you are looking for Darren but at "YEAST" it has a lot of good information of the different types of yeast and their atrtributes in making wine


http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.aspEdited by: Waldo

 

[masta]

Great link Waldo...Jack offers lots of infoon yeast strains.


Also check out Lalvin's and Red Star's sites for more info:


http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/lalvin.html


http://www.lesaffreyeastcorp.com/wineyeast/products.html


BTW these links are located on the resources page:


http://www.finevinewines.com/home-wine-making-supply.htm

 

[masta]

I personally don't think it really matters if you transfer it now or later. I am sure the experts can give you all the pros and cons, but it's never really made a difference in my wines.


I like to rack wines to the carboy when they're about 1.040 or so because there is less chance for contact with air. But that's just me.


Waiting til the SG hits 1.010, however, would avoid the fact that at 1.040 the wine could still bubble out the carboy's neck.

Yes, that has happened to me before (shhh, on more than one occasion!).


I am sure Hippe, Masta, and otherscould add their expert advice.

Sorry I could not help you more.





Martina

My Thoughts:


The instructions and ingredients in wine kits are designed so that the home wine maker can be successful every time and get the wine completed and into the bottle quickly without failure. I believe kit instructions tell you to wait to rack until SG reaches 1.010 for two reasons:
<UL>
<LI>Helps insure you don't rack too early and leaving two much active yeast behind which can cause a fermentation to stop prematurely</LI>
<LI>Allows more of the solids and dead yeast cells to fall to the bottom of the primary fermenter so there are less solids when you get to the clearing stage</LI>[/list]


As Martinapointed out she likes to rack at 1.040 and it works for her. I tend to think that once you have a good colony of activeyeast feedingon the sugar in your must they are in suspension throughout the batch so racking at this stage is not an issue.

 

[bilbo-in-maine]

Another source for info on yeasts is in Winemakers Magazine Fall 2000:

http://www.winemakermag.com/feature/108.html

Sorry, don't know how to provide a live hyperlink yet...Edited by: bilbo-in-maine

 

[darrenlm]

Thanks for the yeast info. I also found this site while searching, http://www.winepress.us/yeast.htmit has charts from lalvin and redstar. Its worth checking out.


Apple Update: I racked tonight at SG 1.030 I had debated holding out a bit longer but went with my cautious side and racked while the ferment was still going but dying out to avoid any type of oxidation. Im amazed at how much sediment started hitting the bottom of the carboy within justa few minutes after racking.

 

[Hippie]

Looks great! Good job!