Tight Corks

[stormbringer]

I use #8 and #9 agglomerated corks which were bought from George. There have been no problems or issues with the #8 corks. I use the Italian floor corker and 750 ml. bottles.The #9 (x 1.75") size corks areso tight that I've broken (at least) one corkscrew. Tight is an understatement.
I've read a previous post on this same subject and my bottles do not display any sort of cork residue inside the neck after opening. I'm careful to pull the cork up and out, as opposed to sort of sideways, as mentioned in the previous post.


I preferthe"waiters" type opener. The corks are so hard to remove that I'm sort of concerned about the opener chipping/breaking the bottle.Like all readers of this forum, Igive mywine to friends -- but I'm afraid to give any of this batch away because Iwould expecta phone call on the tight corks.


Both cork sizes do what they are supposed to do with the exception of the #9's being remarkably tight. I wonder if soaking the corks in K-Meta before bottling has any bearing on a possible adhesion?


Anyone have any thoughts on this topic?

 

[Angell Wine]

I had the same problem so I switch to the 1.5 #9. I broke my rogers estate wine opener. They make replace parts so big deal. I switch over just a few months ago so I can't really tell if it will make a difference or not.

 

[grapeman]

I've actually started to get requests to open the bottles for a couple giftees if they are looking to drink right away(they live next to me so they don't travel with an open bottle- at least not very far). They only have the little T-handle el-cheapo openers and the corks are near impossible to open with it. I've actually had a couple corks break in two before coming out. It's also hard on returns because some folks resort to the screwdriver push in the bottle trick. I don't even try to get those out again. This has just started about 6-8 months ago.

 

[trashy]

We lost a rabbit-style opener to our first bottle, but I'm not sure that was cork-related. It *was* so tight that our CO2 needle didn't work, and it works on most commercially produced bottles/corks.

I'm considering trading in our bag of #9's for #8's......

 

[NorthernWinos]

We use only #8 X 1.75...our wines don't stay around long enough to need a #9......these are just regular 'cork' corks....
Also, we only have a cheap-o Gilda corker, the #8's work great for us, we rarely have a melfunction...Tho, some bottles have a little bit bigger top, so the Gilda doesn't seat real well...we give those bottles away as well as the bottles that have flange tops....
I open some of the bottles...so the corks have to come out easy....We got one of those fancy corkers for Xmas last year that has leavers and a wire screw..it works great for me....but sure takes up lots of space on the shelf....Edited by: Northern Winos

 

[sangwitch]

This concerns me as I have some bottling to do very soon. I've been out of the game for a while, but I don't remember having any issues in the past. Of course, I don't remember what I used for corks either! Nor do I remember the past... never mind!


I'd like to hear more people weigh in on this. Come to think of it, I still buy quite a bit of commercial wine (until I build my inventory back up at least) and I've broken a few cork screws the past couple years. Are we saying there's a noticeable difference between our corks and commercial corks?


any more comments?

 

[masta]

I have been using the Fine Vine Wines Perfect Agglomerate #9 X 1.75 corks 2320for almost 2 years now and have had no issues.I have tried many different types of corks from the real ones to synthetic and found these corks to be the best hands down!


I liked these corks so much I purchased 1000 and had them imprinted with our "Valley Brew" name on them.


I also use a rabbit style corkscrew and it works quite well and don't find the corks difficult to remove at all.

 

[Coaster]

I bottled my first batch with the #9s and man are they tight. I can't use the rabbit ear type orthe T-handle type. I use the screw in then press down on the two handle type. Once it "pops" it comes out fine, but getting started is a trick. I have to warn all my friends whne I give them a bottle.

 

[sangwitch]

I liked these corks so much I purchased 1000 and had them imprinted with our "Valley Brew" name on them.

where did you order those where you can have them printed?

 

[scotty]

We lost a rabbit-style opener to our first bottle, but I'm not sure that was cork-related. It *was* so tight that our CO2 needle didn't work, and it works on most commercially produced bottles/corks.

I'm considering trading in our bag of #9's for #8's......

My rabbit corkscrew flew apart after a few uses. Maube some brands are just junk

 

[masta]

I liked these corks so much I purchased 1000 and had them imprinted with our "Valley Brew" name on them.

where did you order those where you can have them printed?

Only at the best place to find all your winemaking toys!


http://www.finevinewines.com/Home-Wine-Making-Custom-Corks.asp

 

[sangwitch]

Thanks Masta! Of course I looked there first. Of course I missed it somehow. Maybe I'll ask Santa to get me some for Xmas.


I see now... the custom corks have their own link! I'm going on the wagon everyone. Edited by: sangwitch

 

[sangwitch]

I'm off the wagon again.

 

[Waldo]

I'm with Masta..I have been using George's corks exclusively and have never had a problem with them either. I use #9's for all of 750ml bottles and #8's for the 375mlEdited by: Waldo

 

[grapeman]

I have to agree with Masta and Waldo. I am having problems with the #9 corks - however I only seem to have problems with the ones that have the grape clusters on. I have had to resort to getting them locally a couple times because I would forget to order them from George in time for bottling. His are tight which is a good thing- but they slide right out once started. The others seem to grip and like I said even some break in two before coming out. I've also had a couple bottles go bad (taste wise)with the "other" cork in them.

 

[sangwitch]

I am having problems with the #9 corks - however I only seem to have problems with the ones that have the grape clusters on.

So there's a difference between the #9 1.75 that have the grape clusters and the ones that have 'Fine Vine Wines' on them? I thought it was just the logo.


I see the grape cluster logo corks are listed as 'Agglomerate' and the Fine Vine Wine ones are listed as 'Perfect Agglomerate'. Can someone explain the difference?

 

[Funky Fish]

One type is "perfect" while the other is just so-so.

 

[geocorn]

OK, gang, after talking with LD Carlson, Winexpert and the cork manufacturer, here is the scoop on tight corks.






Due to a multitude of reasons that I will list below, home wine makers are at a disadvantage when corking compared to a commercial winery. As a result, the home wine maker will always have the potential to have tight corks, no matter which brand, type or size of cork they choose to use. As it turns out, the Nomacorc can be one of the most difficult corks to remove and it is only a #8. My "perfect" corks are a #9. As an aside, all of my #9 corks are the same cork. I charge you 1 penny more for the grape design as I am trying to build brand recognition.


As to what causes the problems, here is the skinny. The corks are coated to make them easier to insert and remove; however, the coating comes off as they are handled. A winery gets a bag of 1,000 which is full of SO2 and pours them in the corker. The corker inserts the cork and handling is minimal.


Most home wine makers do not use 1,000 corks at a time, so they purchase corks in bags of 30 or 100. These bags do not contain any SO2 (the cost is prohibitive), so the home wine maker needs to sanitize the cork, which involves handling. Then the cork needs to be put into the corker, which involves handling again. If you do not use all of thecorks from the bag, you put them back in the back, which involves handling, one more time. Each time you handle the cork, you remove some of the coating which leads to corks sticking in the bottle and "tight corks".


There are other factors at work which include using re-cycled bottles that may have imperfections in the neck, over soaking of the cork and storage of the corks.


The best advice I can give you is to reduce the handling of the corks as much as possible and store the corks in a cool, damp environment.


To reduce handling, use the following procedure when corking:


1. Remove only the number of corks from your bag of corks that you will need for this bottling.


2. Rinse or dipthe corks in a sulfite solution. 15-30 second exposure to the sulfite solution is sufficient. Do not boil, microwave or soak for an extended period as this will remove the coating and cause the cork to fall apart.


3. Place the rinsed corks in a bowl or on a paper towel to allow them to air-dry. (5-15 minutes)


4. Insert the cork in the bottle.


In addition, if you have the room for a cork humidor is a great idea. There is a post for how to do this, but I can not find it. As soon as I do, I will post it here.


I hope this helps with some of your frustrations over the tight corks. As pointed out above, this happens will all corks, not just mine. The advantage of my perfect corks is that they will not leak. I have also asked the cork manufacturer to increase the coating on all of my futere orders. We will see if that will reduce the problem further.Edited by: geocorn

 

[sangwitch]

And there you have it. George, thanksfor going straight to the source for us.

 

[trashy]

corks are supposed to be sanitized?

hmmmmmm.........