Here we go again (Corks vs. Screws)

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RJMehr

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I found the article below very interesting concerning screw tops for wine. Any comments?




20100416_185512_semillion.jpg



The picture above really does tell a remarkable story, offering a
dramatic pictorial follow-up on my discussion last week about
alternative wine-bottle closures.




What's it about? All 14 bottles contain identical samples of a
Leasingham Estate 1999 Clare Valley Semillon, all cellared together for
a decade. The colors tell the tale that 10 years of aging wrote: They
range all the way from watery pale to a dank, dead dark brown.



The bottle on the left, perfect in color (and reportedly in taste),
was closed with a sturdy Stelvin-brand metal screw cap. All the others
are plugged with a variety of natural and processed cork or synthetic
stoppers. If this doesn't close the case, it makes a mighty strong
argument to the jury.



I'm indebted for this material to my buddies at Old Bridge Cellars, which I've long admired as an importer of Australian wines that I consistently enjoy. Within minutes after The 30 Second Wine Advisor went out in Email, Old Bridge's business development and public relations manager, Shae Cooney, got in touch with a load of photos and information.



Not that I'm feeling lazy on this beautiful spring afternoon, but I can't really improve on the report from Old Bridge. With gratitude, I'm sharing it with you. It's actually only 800 words, by the way!



"The image above shows the state of 14 bottles of white wine sealed
under various closures 125 months (just over 10 years) after bottling.
This closure trial was conducted by the Australian Wine Research
Institute to assess the relative effects of cork, plastic and screw cap
closures on bottle-aged wine and has unequivocally shown the
superiority of screw caps in aging wine.



"It is well known that screw cap closures eliminate cork taint (TCA)
and premature oxidization, but what this trial reveals is the fact that
wine does mature/age in the bottle over time under screw cap. This is
the most misunderstood aspect of the closure debate. Australians have
been conducting both red and white wine screw cap trials for 20-30
years, so experience tells us this is indeed the case, but this is the
first trial on such a grand scale to highlight this little-known fact.



"The wine involved was a 1999 Clare Valley Semillon made by Kerri
Thompson of Leasingham Estate. Thousands of bottles were sealed with 14
different closures, including multiple natural and synthetic corks as
well as one sample under screw cap.



"The bottled wines were systematically analyzed over a 10 year
period by sensory and analytical methods and photographed (you can see
the sequential photographs below). The bottle sealed with a screw cap
is positioned on the far left. While the pictures tell a convincing
story, leaving little doubt as to which seal provides the most
effective method of preserving a wine, it is the sensory evaluation
results that are most revealing. The wines sealed under screw cap were
still drinkable and showing appealing secondary aged characters while
retaining freshness.



"UK wine Journalist Jamie Goode has followed the trial closely while
remaining independent and was fortunate enough to taste the Semillon
after being in bottle for 10 years and 8 months, saying 'It’s a full
yellow color, with a minerally, flinty edge to the attractive
honeysuckle and citrus fruit nose. The palate has a lovely focused
fruit quality to it with pithy citrus fruit and a hint of grapefruit.
There are also some subtle toasty notes. Very attractive and amazingly
fresh for a 10 year old Clare Semillon.'



"Group Manager at the AWRI. Peter Godden. agrees with Jamie’s assessment of the 10 year old Semillon.



"'The wine under screw cap was classic aged Semillon and was wonderful to drink.'



"Peter also said that there was huge variation in the results for
the synthetic and cork closures, which was of more concern than TCA
taint.



"'The biggest issue for any form of cork closure is variability, the
wines sealed with screw cap were extremely consistent bottle to bottle
and no other closure achieved results even similar.



"'Most of the wine sealed with closures other than screw cap were
completely undrinkable, some synthetic corks didn’t even last 28 months.



"'The study was initially established to determine which would be
the best performing cork and we didn’t expect screw cap to be much of a
factor. It didn’t take long to work out that it was going to be the
most reliable performer, and as it turns out the results are emphatic.'



"On his blog, Jamie closes with, '...for those who want to drink
this wine at 10 years, very few of the cork-sealed bottles would be as
good as this, and all the screw capped bottles would be consistently
like this.'



"The humble screw cap. No RBO, no cork taint, consistent product. We'll take it. All day, every day."
 
Forgive me this basic question re: screw caps - How would I get an airtight seal, such as you would have with a beer bottle? Lacking experience with beer bottling or using screw caps, I would presume that a screw cap would not create that tight seal by hand (not mine anyhow). Does it require a machine that can seal it securely, something more elaborate/expensive than my ol' 2-handed hand-corker?
 
Good article. Id feel pretty safe about putting them on by hand but I have no experience other then soda pop and stuff like that, nothing long term.
 
That test was mentioned in the book I just finished "to cork or not to cork". I am not surprised at all at the results as screw caps can be set to allow zero air in or tweaked to allow a small amount sorta like a natural cork. White wines you obviously want zero air.

Reds of course won't age like a red with zero air so you either have to either adjust your winemaking for a different profile or adjust the cap. Needless to say they are still trying to perfect the tweaking of caps on reds.

I started a thread on this just a month or so ago.

Screw caps are great for whites or early drinking reds. They just are not as much fun to open as a good old fashion cork. But alas no cork taint either so I guess there is a trade off.
 
Hey Mike,, I have a question for you.
I was getting ready to bottle my RJS Pinot Gregio -Italian wine .
I took my wine theif and took a sample( about 2 oz) to taste before I racked to the Fermenter to bottle. I noticed a film on the wine glass after I made the taste. What do you think it was and should I be concerned? Like and
oiley film. Wine tasted good . young need time to sit.

Just about got all the wine racked to the fermenter and I moved the siphon hose and disturbed the lees and had cloudy wine. I had to rack back to the Carboy to let it settle again. What is the film?

By the way,, how far is Lost Almost from Santa Fe?
Lynn.
 
Sounds like some type of protein. It may need some more time before you bottle. If your sure you got a clean rack you may need to think about filtering. Not having made any RJS (only CC and MM) I have no data on their kits. Perhaps give Obi Wan Cornelius a call and pick his brain.

Lost Almost is about 30 miles NW of the "city different".
smiley2.gif


Lynn said:
Hey Mike,, I have a question for you.   I was getting ready to bottle my RJS  Pinot Gregio -Italian wine .I took my wine theif  and took a sample( about 2 oz) to taste before I racked to the Fermenter to bottle.  I noticed a film on the wine glass after I made the taste. What do you think it was and should I be concerned? Like and oiley film.  Wine tasted good . young need time to sit.Just about got all the wine racked to the fermenter and I moved the siphon hose and disturbed the lees and had  cloudy wine. I had to rack back to the Carboy to let it settle again.  What is the film?By the way,, how far is Lost Almost from Santa Fe?Lynn.
 
I always rack twice before bottling. What you just did is the first racking (actually you have probably already racked a time or two before) and then I do another racking before bottling. That way there just isn't much you can stir up so your wine stays clear at bottling. A number of people report a slight oil in the RJS wines, but all reports say the wine is great.
 
Thanks for the info,,


Do you know if the film ever goes away?You would think if it caused film on the wine glass , it would cause film in the bottle and cause it to look cloudy.
I did rack back to the carboy and will wait. It has started to clear again. It didn't take much to get it all stirred up.
That is how us newbys learn.
I will be more careful the next time. Lynn
 
I am not convinced, although I have no problems buying a screw-topped bottle of wine. It's not just about aging extended periods of time.

Maybe because the seal was completely air tight on the screw top, it took ten years before the wine was really nice. If that's the case, would I have to wait 7 to 10 years before the wine is as good as it would have been in 2 years with a good cork? What is the point of that? It is already a challenge for most of us kit makers to keep our hands off a batch for even 2 years; how would you like to have to wait 5 years to get the same results?

It's not likely most wine drinkers would ever want to age a bottle 10 years, anyway, and likely not even 5 years in most cases. What was the comparison like at 2 years? 4 years? 6 years?

How many of you have made a kit or even fresh grape semillon?
 
This is sounding like you did not get a good clean rack when you transfered and you still have some fines in the carboy that can be stirred up anytime you move it. You will need to let them settle and then rack again and make sure you leave the fines behind.

Lynn said:
  I did rack back to the carboy and will wait. It has started to clear again.  It didn't take much to get it all stirred up.
 That is how us newbys learn.
 I will be more careful the next time.  Lynn
 
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