Bentonite

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Jwatson

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I pasted the info. below from http://www.brsquared.org/wine/

"Sometimes juice is bentonite fined before fermentation for protein removal. It should be noted that this can lower fermentation rate as well as cause stuck ferments and hydrogen sulphide production. Additionally, research has shown that wines settled by enzymes rather than bentonite possess greater aroma/flavour intensity. Protein removal by bentonite post-fermentation is also more effective."

Has anyone ever skipped adding bentonite pre-fermentation? I thought I read somewhere that bentonite is needed for kit wines to keep yeast in suspension. Maybe the above information is more for real grapes, Any thoughts or experiences with leaving out bentonite at the beginning?
 
I dont see leaving it out as causing any problem. I dont leave it out when making a kit but do leave it out sometimes when making it from juice or fruit. Ive only done 1 side by side where where id left one out and not the other but also also left something else out and used a fining agent on one and not the other so actually to many variables by the end to even compare the 2, I didnt do it to compare though, just had some left over in the fridge and the fridge I was using crapped out and I didnt have some of these supplies on hand. Both wines tasted awesome and I blended them together at the end when bottling.
 
The bentonite is used in kit wines at the outset so the wine clears rapidly and can be bottled 4-5 weeks. Many (non-kit) winemakers don't use bentonite at all or use it after fermenting, as you mentioned. After making a dozen or so kits I stopped using the fining agents altogether (except on a couple problematic white wines), and haven't used bentonite in the last several kits I have started. Haven't noticed any differences, but since I bulk age for 4-6 months or more, getting the wine to clear has not been a problem.

Bottom line: if you are making a kit wine and need it to clear quickly so you can bottle it, then you should probably use the bentonite. If it's not a kit wine or you're not trying to get it finished ASAP, then I would recommend leaving the bentonite out, but I don't think it will make a huge difference anyway (I would expect a small, fairly subtle improvement).
 
Bart is right on the money. When we used to make wine back home from grapes, we did not used bentonite. That being said, the chronology of the wine making would be as follows: Early October: de-stem and crush gapes into open primary fermenter, ferment in primary for 10-14 days, move to wine barrels and keep topped off until early December, install bung and wine would be ready to drink around Easter. Early on, there were no additives at all. Then in the 1960's, we discovered this "magic" powder that we could send away for that would keep the wine from spoiling. Itsold forabout $5 for a tube that was maybe 3" long and 1/2" in diameter. That, of course, was Na-Meta and it saved many barrels of wine over the years.
 
I have omitted fining on kits in the past but hadpoor results on the kits. Now I just follow the directions and useall finings.I alsobulk age.I believe I have better results with doing that. I thought thatI had defects in just about everykit that I did not fine.I don't think I know enough about when and why to use them to second guess the kit manufacturer.
smiley29.gif



For my home grown grapes I never use bentonite at all and have only used super klear one time to remove a haze caused by extended lees contact. I am considering using more finings and enzymesin my home grown grapes in the future as I learn more about them.
 
Enzymes IMO are a very good product for using when making any fruit wine.
 
http://forum.finevinewines.com//forum_posts.asp?TID=2192&PN=2

smurfe said:
I found this article at


http://www.homebrew.com/articles/article01130104.shtml


It basically covers what Tim talked about at Winestock explaining
the reason bentonite and sulfite's are used and desirable to winemaking.
I am one that has to agree with George as well. If it wasn't needed,
they wouldn't use it. Think profit margin. Heck, they make labels and
shrinks for every kit but they don't give those with the kits except the
LE kits.


Smurfe
smiley1.gif



Wine 101: Double </font>Agent</font> </font>Bentonite</font>
</font>By Tim Vandergrift, Technical Services Manager, Brew King Limited</font> </font>
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<t><tr>
<td>February 02, 2001 --</font>
</font>
</font>
Bentonite
is a fining agent. Fining is the action of removing particles that make
a haze in wine by combining them with materials that bind to them and
force them out of suspension, leaving the wine clear and bright. It not
only improves a wine?s appearance; it also makes sure that it is stable.
Stable means that it won?t change if appearance, taste, aroma, or
chemical composition while in storage.

Bentonite is a type of
clay, known as aluminosilicate. Its technical name is Montmorillonite.
It?s found with various minerals attached to it, such as sodium, calcium
and magnesium. It was originally found in Fort Benton, Wyoming (where
the name came from). It?s used in winemaking, beauty treatments, mineral
extraction, water treatment, and kitty litter.

When used in
winemaking, it is stirred into the wine to remove proteins and other
haze causing particles. It works through adsorption. This means that it
attaches itself to a particle, and together they are too heavy to stay
in suspension, falling to the bottom of the carboy, leaving the wine
clear and stable. Bentonite settles out so completely that it does not
leave any residue of taste or colour behind.

Some wine kit
companies (like Brew King) add their bentonite on the first day, and
some add it after fermentation. This is one of the fundamental
differences between kits that you may have noticed. The reasons behind
it go beyond technology, straight into winemaking philosophy.

When
bentonite is added on the first day, it disperses through the wine and
most settles to the bottom within a few hours. At the end of 48 hours,
however, the bentonite is back in circulation. This is because of the
process of gas nucleation that the CO2 in the wine is undergoing.

As
the yeast ferments the sugar, it converts it into carbon dioxide (CO2)
and alcohol. The bubbles of gas don?t actually appear out of nowhere:
they want to come out of suspension on some kind of a point, where a
nucleus of gas can form the beginning of a bubble. Thus we get the term
?nucleation?. This point could be a scratch in the carboy, a bit of
grape material, or a particle of bentonite. The bentonite is surrounded
by a bubble of gas and floats up to the surface of the wine. When the
bubble bursts, the particle of bentonite drops back down to the bottom
of the carboy, all the time working to adsorb the other particles
clouding the wine. In this way, the bentonite is circulated around the
wine continuously for days, doing its job.

When bentonite is
added to a wine kit post-fermentation, it does not have the advantage of
the CO2 lift that it would get during fermentation. Therefore the
winemaker is obligated to stir it through the wine repeatedly, ensuring
the thorough dispersal.

In addition, because the bentonite will
quickly settle out before it can effectively clear the wine,
significantly more is needed when used post-fermentation. Brew King kits
typically use 10 or 15 grams of bentonite, while some companies use up
to 80 grams! Not only does this amount cause the formation of a deep,
loose sediment bed; it also has the effect of stripping the wine.

Finings
are considerably more powerful than most people suspect. With a
sufficient dosage of finings it is possible to strip a red wine to the
point where it becomes ?white?. Too much finings can lead to a stripping
of colour and flavour, making it necessary to formulate much darker and
stronger wine kits to compensate. By adding the bentonite on the first
day, the formulation can be much closer to the desired finished wine,
without extra additions or manipulation.

Although it may seem a
little odd to be adding clay to your wine, when the finished product is
clear and delicious, you?ll be glad that there was a little bentonite to
polish it up.

Potassium Metabisulphite is a stable source of
sulphur dioxide in winemaking. The use of sulphur compounds is not a
recent innovation. The great Dutch shipping empire popularised the use
of sulphur in the 16th century by refusing to ship any wines not
treated. They insisted on sulphites because sulphite treated wines were
the only ones that survived a long sea voyage without turning into
vinegar.

Sulphites work by releasing free sulphur dioxide, which
inhibits yeast, mould and bacteria. It does this in two ways: one, it
kills some of the organisms outright, and two, it blocks the surviving
organisms ability to reproduce. If your winemaking equipment is
physically clean and you've rinsed it with a sulphite solution, nothing
will grow on it.

Sulphites are also added directly to wine after
fermentation, to help prevent oxidation. Oxidation in wine follows the
same pattern that you see in the cut edge of an apple-the wine turns
brown and takes on a flat 'cardboard' taste.

Sulphur binds with the oxygen in the wine and prevents this damage.

Many
people worry that they may be allergic to sulphites. True sulphite
allergies are very rare. It's more likely that they have a histamine
reaction to red wine, or that they have been over exposed to sulphites
in the past. In the 1970's restaurants would douse their salad bars with
2000 PPM (parts per million) sulphite solutions in order to keep the
produce fresh. Mixing with food acids, such as dressings or vinegar,
would cause the salad to release clouds of sulphite gas, provoking
unpleasant reactions.

Some facts that might clear up any misunderstanding about sulphites:

Sulphites
are a recognised food additive. The federal government controls their
use. All commercially available wines in the province of British
Columbia contain sulphites, even those labelled 'Kosher' or 'Organic.
The legally allowable amount is 70 PPM.

Nearly all dried fruits
and meats contain sulphites. Raisins, for instance, have up to 250 PPM.
The amount of sulphite provided in wine kits will result in a level of
between 15 and 30 PPM in a finished wine.

All grape-based wines
produce Sulphites naturally during fermentation, up to a level of about
10-PPM. Even with no addition of outside sulphites, wines will still
contain them.

This is not to say that sulphites are totally
benign. People with asthma or emphysema should avoid inhaling sulphite
powder or the gas that comes off the prepared solution. It can act as a
bronchial constrictor, aggravating any breathing problems. Also, adding
extra sulphites to wine is of no benefit, as it can spoil the flavour,
giving it a 'burnt match' smell. It's important to follow directions for
sulphite additions. The upshot of sulphite use is this: without
sulphites you'd have to be very careful to keep all of your equipment
sanitary and you'd still have to drink your wine quickly, before it
spoiled, probably within one or two months.

Potassium Sorbate:
Used
For: Prevents renewed fermentation in sweet wines. Inhibits
reproduction of mould and yeast. ? g of Sorbate dissolved per litre of
wine will prevent spoilage. 5 ml (one Teaspoon) = approximately 2.8 g.

Bad
Ideas: Must not be added until fermentation has finished. If sorbate is
added to a wine during malolactic fermentation, it will be converted to
a compound with a strong and disagreeable odour.

Hazard classification: Not hazardous. GRAS (Generally Recognised As Safe) by Agriculture Canada.

Chitosan
is a non-proteinaceous fining agent, a polysaccharide of the Sucrose
Polymer family. It is derived from chitin extracted from ocean
shellfish, the same organic material that makes up fingernails and human
hair. It works by a process of molecular adsorption, where the Chitosan
has an electrical charge, which attracts oppositely charged particles
clouding the wine, binding them and pulling them out of suspension.

It
s also used as a food additive and dietary supplement. Although it is
derived from shellfish, there is absolutely no danger of any allergic
reactions to the product, as there are no allergens left after the
Chitosan is processed.</font></font></td></tr></t></table></font>
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