An article from a Canadian website

[scotty]

Im particularly interested in the comments about sodium metabisulfate and bentonite.I have been considering stopping using bentonite except where it is absolutely necessary( i've yet to learn how to do that though)
There are other things that i hope the more experienced or anyone would comment on









In this article I'll present some basic caveats that may help keep you on the winemaking "straight and narrow."


I am firmly and uncharitably convinced that some home winemakers have an "oenological death wish"! Their problems tend to reflect having learned to make wine in a vacuum with no one to consult and acquiring counter-productive winemaking habits that almost guarantee quality will elude them.


There are two basic positions that make sense in home winemaking. One is to make wine as cheaply and simply as possible without wasting time and effort and getting by with basic table wine - read plonk! The other involves a commitment to quality bordering on the obsessive that requires a body of knowledge at a level nearing that of commercial vintners. It is a lot easier to get novices started off on the right foot than to change 30-year-old habits of veterans. It is the goal of this article to even that playing field.


<A name=equip></A>EQUIPMENT PRECAUTIONS
Plastic Containers -- Use food grade white plastic only. Never use plastic garbage pails or bags. The alcohol in the young wine can leach out carcinogens and other compounds with very unpleasant petroleum odours and taste. For bungs, use food grade plastic or Tygon (white -- not coloured, sulphur free) or silicone. Move to glass of known history as quickly as possible.


Never use reactive metals (iron, aluminum, alloys, even brass and copper). Metallic tastes may result, and nasty acrid flavours from grape acids acting on metals are unpleasant. Never use metal caps for jugs. Paint exposed metal parts with food grade epoxy enamel. Move up to stainless steel as soon as you can afford it.


<A name=aseptic></A>ASEPTIC PRECAUTIONS
Use reasonable cleanliness. Don't over do it with sterilizing. Don't rely on sulphite as a sterilizing agent -- IT ISN'T!!! Don't swab or rinse everything in sulphite solution -- this is ineffective. Its prolonged use and inhalation may be dangerous. Remove labels from bottles and jugs. They can be a source of contamination. Use a tap-mounted bottle washer. Consider this an essential piece of equipment.


Rely on hot (not boiling) water for routine rinsing. Don't use detergents or soap which leave films and off tastes. Rinse tubing immediately after use!!! Clean up juice and wine spills immediately. If you can't get to them right away, squirt some SO2 on them to keep contaminants at bay. Eliminate sources of fruit flies, and keep them out of your fermenters to avoid contamination from vinegar bacteria.


<A name=donts></A>DON'TS Never use ingredients of unknown origin. Don't buy concentrates at a fire sale -- you will get burnt!!


Never add dry ingredients to wines or musts. They could form a mass and still be there when fermentation is over. Dissolve acids, sugar and chemicals in a small amount of warm water or in a sample of wine or must.


Never use "acid blend." It adds no proven organoleptic advantage over tartaric acid for grapes, citric acid for fruit or malic for apple wines. The blend usually contains these three acids in varying amounts. Adding malic acid may encourage malolactic fermentation. Citric acid may convert to acetic acid. Control your wines all the time.


Never use secondhand corks. They are impossible to sterilize without losing their integrity.


Never use wine conditioner. Conditioner components are based on average case needs. If diluted, the sorbate may add a geranium character to the wine. Always plan the fermentation and management of each wine in terms of style for appropriate yeast, acid, sugar, fermentation, temperature and residual sugar. Be prepared to adapt!!


Never use non-dated Sodium Hydroxide. Titrate stale NaOH against a standard to determine its actual strength but it is better to buy sodium hydroxide pellets (keep them very dry) and make your own solution. Eight grams of NAOH pellets in a litre of distilled water will give a O.2N solution. Make up stock sorbate and sulphite solutions every few months to ensure potency.


<A name=naoh></A>TESTING NaOH STRENGTH
To determine if your sodium hydroxide is stale prepare a standard solution of 5% Tartaric acid in a litre of boiled water (50 grams of Tartaric acid in a litre). Titrate this solution with your NaOH to end point. If you do not reach end point with 5 ml of NaOH (if too much is used, then it is stale) buy a new bottle of NaOH.


<A name=ph></A>BUY A pH METER
An easier way to test wine acidity is to use a pH meter. These are now inexpensive ($40-$80) and allow you to titrate to pH 8.2 without being concerned with colour changes (end point).


<A name=dos></A>DO'S


Always work in metric units. They are much easier to calculate.


Always determine the variables in the must. Test sugar with a hydrometer, acid with an acid testing kit, and pH with a pH meter.


Always adjust the must before fermentation if amelioration or chaptalization are required.


Always keep good records. Make notes immediately and record the amounts of all chemicals added. Monitor specific gravity, aroma, flavour appearance frequently and regularly.


Always sniff and taste young wines periodically. Don't wait until they are bottled to find you have a problem. This will also help educate your palate.


Always make a starter for malolactic fermentation.


Always calculate and measure accurately. Home winemaking is still an art. The more you reduce variability, the more likely you will repeat your successes.


Be vigilant about topping up to within a few centimeters of the bottom of the bung. Sufficiently fill the air lock.


Always test wine stability for residual sugar, free S02, protein, pectin, cold, heat and malolactic conversion. Remedy as soon as possible.


Learn what contributes to quality in grapes, juice and equipment. Attend seminars and subscribe to useful periodicals.


Deal with innovative and knowledgeable suppliers that use the products they sell.


Make as much wine as you can afford, commensurate with financial, marital and hepatic stability. Amateurs who restrict their annual winemaking to two carboys of 'Chablis' will never really learn to make good wine.


Reprinted with permission from Better Winemaking Magazine, Volume 6, Number 4, 1995. I JUST RE READ IT AND THE COMMENT ABOUT SORBATE SEEMS TO BE IN ANOTHER ARTICLE. HOWEVER THIS ARTICLE IS STILL A BIT CONTROVERSIAL AS I SEE IT.Edited by: scotty

 

[scotty]

The other article basicly said not to use bentonite with the kit wines, If i find the article i will post it.

 

[PeterZ]

The article doesn't seem that out-of-line to me, but most of it seems to be pointed at those using fruit (including grapes). Much of it is unnecessarily fussy for those using today's high quality kits.

One note from a chemist. NaOH does not get "stale" or go bad, even in dilute solution. It will, however, pull moisture from the air, resulting in a dilution of the solution. Keep it in a tightly closed glass bottle and it will be fine.

 

[Wade E]

Its funny because I stopped using bentonite about 3 batches ago because
I noticed no difference in clearing or taste so why add it I say. I
started using not to long ago because I read it aids in clearing.

 

[scotty]

Im switching to claro KC for all my stuff now.


The comment about the solution that peter made is important to me. Thanks pete

What about shelf life of phenolphtalen??((sp?))


Also could someone comment on the use of sulfite solution for sanitizing.


I know we dont wash items with it for cleanliness but i find myself spraying and rinsing everything i touch or that the equipment will touch while at any stage of making wineEdited by: scotty

 

[Wade E]

I always use the Kc at the end but was using the bentonite in the
beginning like others had said to aid in clearing. No more of that and
will keep the rest of the bentonite only for emergency situation.

 

[scotty]

I always use the Kc at the end but was using the bentonite in the beginning like others had said to aid in clearing. No more of that and will keep the rest of the bentonite only for emergency situation.

You had made that statement in another thread and thats what got me thinking especially since
im still dropping the stuff in a kit i made a couple of month ago. I have already racked the wine off the sediment two times.
Once when transfering from the primary and again at the recomended time plus a week or so when the bentonite sediment seemed to have stopped dropping.
Whentalking to a buddy in another state he seems to be having the same experience with bentonite.


Now I just need to know what an emergency is

 

[Wade E]

Me too. I just cant get myself to throw stuff out.

 

[scotty]

Me too. I just cant get myself to throw stuff out.

Maybe we can have a WHOSE THE MOST FRUGAL" contest

 

[Wade E]

Yeh but my Dad would win.

 

[scotty]

Yeh but my Dad would win.

The sales force at the Harley Dealer told my GF that i still have my first dollar lol

 

[Joseph1]

Overall, I thought the article provided a great deal of sound advice. With regards to the use of sulfite solution, the article stated “Don't rely on sulphite as a sterilizing agent -- IT ISN'T!!!” This is correct, sulfite sanitizes it does not sterilize. George has an excellent article that covers cleaning and sanitizing for winemakers. It briefly touches on the difference between sanitizing and sterilizing. If you have not yet read the article, here is the link:<?amespace prefix = o ns = "urnchemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" />

http://www.finevinewines.com/Cleaning-versus-Sanitizing.htm

 

[Wade E]

Like George says, it doesnt have to be sterilized, just sanitized.

 

[geocorn]

Always keep in mind that the kit companies make millions of wine kits per year, which is results in more wine than most wineries! They use items like bentonite, sulphite and sorbate for a reason...to produce a quality wine. I guarantee you that if the wine kit manufacturers like Winexpert did not feel these items were working, they would not use them.


In general, I agree with most of the article. Testing and cleanliness are the wine maker's friends. Don't short change either one.

 

[Waldo]

Very informative article. Would like to see some input from those of you that have used the wine conditioner though and how it worked for you. I bought my first bottle this past weekend and have not used it yet and will now wait to see what the forum thinks before I do. I had planned on using it in a Plum wine that is jsut about ready to bottle.

 

[scotty]

Very informative article. Would like to see some input from those of you that have used the wine conditioner though and how it worked for you. I bought my first bottle this past weekend and have not used it yet and will now wait to see what the forum thinks before I do. I had planned on using it in a Plum wine that is jsut about ready to bottle.

I have 2, one white and one red. I will also wait.

 

[smurfe]

I found this article at


http://www.homebrew.com/articles/article01130104.shtml


It basically covers what Tim talked about at Winestock explaining the reason bentonite and sulfite's are used and desirable to winemaking. I am one that has to agree with George as well. If it wasn't needed, they wouldn't use it. Think profit margin. Heck, they make labels and shrinks for every kit but they don't give those with the kits except the LE kits.


Smurfe

Wine 101: Double Agent Bentonite
By Tim Vandergrift, Technical Services Manager, Brew King Limited
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<TD>February 02, 2001 --


Bentonite is a fining agent. Fining is the action of removing particles that make a haze in wine by combining them with materials that bind to them and force them out of suspension, leaving the wine clear and bright. It not only improves a wine?s appearance; it also makes sure that it is stable. Stable means that it won?t change if appearance, taste, aroma, or chemical composition while in storage.

Bentonite is a type of clay, known as aluminosilicate. Its technical name is Montmorillonite. It?s found with various minerals attached to it, such as sodium, calcium and magnesium. It was originally found in Fort Benton, Wyoming (where the name came from). It?s used in winemaking, beauty treatments, mineral extraction, water treatment, and kitty litter.

When used in winemaking, it is stirred into the wine to remove proteins and other haze causing particles. It works through adsorption. This means that it attaches itself to a particle, and together they are too heavy to stay in suspension, falling to the bottom of the carboy, leaving the wine clear and stable. Bentonite settles out so completely that it does not leave any residue of taste or colour behind.

Some wine kit companies (like Brew King) add their bentonite on the first day, and some add it after fermentation. This is one of the fundamental differences between kits that you may have noticed. The reasons behind it go beyond technology, straight into winemaking philosophy.

When bentonite is added on the first day, it disperses through the wine and most settles to the bottom within a few hours. At the end of 48 hours, however, the bentonite is back in circulation. This is because of the process of gas nucleation that the CO2 in the wine is undergoing.

As the yeast ferments the sugar, it converts it into carbon dioxide (CO2) and alcohol. The bubbles of gas don?t actually appear out of nowhere: they want to come out of suspension on some kind of a point, where a nucleus of gas can form the beginning of a bubble. Thus we get the term ?nucleation?. This point could be a scratch in the carboy, a bit of grape material, or a particle of bentonite. The bentonite is surrounded by a bubble of gas and floats up to the surface of the wine. When the bubble bursts, the particle of bentonite drops back down to the bottom of the carboy, all the time working to adsorb the other particles clouding the wine. In this way, the bentonite is circulated around the wine continuously for days, doing its job.

When bentonite is added to a wine kit post-fermentation, it does not have the advantage of the CO2 lift that it would get during fermentation. Therefore the winemaker is obligated to stir it through the wine repeatedly, ensuring the thorough dispersal.

In addition, because the bentonite will quickly settle out before it can effectively clear the wine, significantly more is needed when used post-fermentation. Brew King kits typically use 10 or 15 grams of bentonite, while some companies use up to 80 grams! Not only does this amount cause the formation of a deep, loose sediment bed; it also has the effect of stripping the wine.

Finings are considerably more powerful than most people suspect. With a sufficient dosage of finings it is possible to strip a red wine to the point where it becomes ?white?. Too much finings can lead to a stripping of colour and flavour, making it necessary to formulate much darker and stronger wine kits to compensate. By adding the bentonite on the first day, the formulation can be much closer to the desired finished wine, without extra additions or manipulation.

Although it may seem a little odd to be adding clay to your wine, when the finished product is clear and delicious, you?ll be glad that there was a little bentonite to polish it up.

Potassium Metabisulphite is a stable source of sulphur dioxide in winemaking. The use of sulphur compounds is not a recent innovation. The great Dutch shipping empire popularised the use of sulphur in the 16th century by refusing to ship any wines not treated. They insisted on sulphites because sulphite treated wines were the only ones that survived a long sea voyage without turning into vinegar.

Sulphites work by releasing free sulphur dioxide, which inhibits yeast, mould and bacteria. It does this in two ways: one, it kills some of the organisms outright, and two, it blocks the surviving organisms ability to reproduce. If your winemaking equipment is physically clean and you've rinsed it with a sulphite solution, nothing will grow on it.

Sulphites are also added directly to wine after fermentation, to help prevent oxidation. Oxidation in wine follows the same pattern that you see in the cut edge of an apple-the wine turns brown and takes on a flat 'cardboard' taste.

Sulphur binds with the oxygen in the wine and prevents this damage.

Many people worry that they may be allergic to sulphites. True sulphite allergies are very rare. It's more likely that they have a histamine reaction to red wine, or that they have been over exposed to sulphites in the past. In the 1970's restaurants would douse their salad bars with 2000 PPM (parts per million) sulphite solutions in order to keep the produce fresh. Mixing with food acids, such as dressings or vinegar, would cause the salad to release clouds of sulphite gas, provoking unpleasant reactions.

Some facts that might clear up any misunderstanding about sulphites:

Sulphites are a recognised food additive. The federal government controls their use. All commercially available wines in the province of British Columbia contain sulphites, even those labelled 'Kosher' or 'Organic. The legally allowable amount is 70 PPM.

Nearly all dried fruits and meats contain sulphites. Raisins, for instance, have up to 250 PPM. The amount of sulphite provided in wine kits will result in a level of between 15 and 30 PPM in a finished wine.

All grape-based wines produce Sulphites naturally during fermentation, up to a level of about 10-PPM. Even with no addition of outside sulphites, wines will still contain them.

This is not to say that sulphites are totally benign. People with asthma or emphysema should avoid inhaling sulphite powder or the gas that comes off the prepared solution. It can act as a bronchial constrictor, aggravating any breathing problems. Also, adding extra sulphites to wine is of no benefit, as it can spoil the flavour, giving it a 'burnt match' smell. It's important to follow directions for sulphite additions. The upshot of sulphite use is this: without sulphites you'd have to be very careful to keep all of your equipment sanitary and you'd still have to drink your wine quickly, before it spoiled, probably within one or two months.

Potassium Sorbate:
Used For: Prevents renewed fermentation in sweet wines. Inhibits reproduction of mould and yeast. ? g of Sorbate dissolved per litre of wine will prevent spoilage. 5 ml (one Teaspoon) = approximately 2.8 g.

Bad Ideas: Must not be added until fermentation has finished. If sorbate is added to a wine during malolactic fermentation, it will be converted to a compound with a strong and disagreeable odour.

Hazard classification: Not hazardous. GRAS (Generally Recognised As Safe) by Agriculture Canada.

Chitosan is a non-proteinaceous fining agent, a polysaccharide of the Sucrose Polymer family. It is derived from chitin extracted from ocean shellfish, the same organic material that makes up fingernails and human hair. It works by a process of molecular adsorption, where the Chitosan has an electrical charge, which attracts oppositely charged particles clouding the wine, binding them and pulling them out of suspension.

It s also used as a food additive and dietary supplement. Although it is derived from shellfish, there is absolutely no danger of any allergic reactions to the product, as there are no allergens left after the Chitosan is processed.</TD></TR></T></TABLE>
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[NorthernWinos]

Very informative article. Would like to see some input from those of you that have used the wine conditioner though and how it worked for you. I bought my first bottle this past weekend and have not used it yet and will now wait to see what the forum thinks before I do. I had planned on using it in a Plum wine that is just about ready to bottle.

I have used Wine Conditioner...a little goes a long way... before bottling....I took 8 oz of wine and add a half mil of Conditioner... seemed okay...

Made this formula

1/2 cc[mil] Conditioner/8 oz of wine
2 cc/quart of wine
8 cc/gallon of wine
40 cc/5 gallon

40 cc =1.35oz
1.35oz =2.71 Tablespoons

Think those figures are right...correct me if I am wrong.I have plenty of new sterilized syringes from livestock and pets...just used some k-meta and dosed it out that way [no needle attached]
I would recommend using very little....we thought the ChokeCherry wine got too sweet with that little of the Conditioner added....but we don't like sweet wines.

Make up your own formula once to figure out how much to use in a small amount of wine....everyone's tastes diffre, as do the wines used....
Remember go easy on that stuff and use Sorbate with it.

Hope this was helpful..

Edited by: Northern Winos

 

[scotty]

As far as profit goes, making a kit idiot proof also saves money in the long run. Bentonite may be just another way of guaranteeing that the kit user ends up with a likeable end product. No complaints to follow up on means lower cost.
Since many folks have been using only claro at the end with favorable results ill opt to eliminate the bentonite untill i see a reason to change back.

 

[smurfe]

Just whatare the issues people have with bentonite? What are it's ill effects?






Smurfe Edited by: smurfe