Unpasteurized honey.

[Marshall]

Has anyone used unpasteurized honey in a mead? What are the drawbacks?

 

[saramc]

The majority of the honey that I use is unpasteurized and I have had no issues. I also opt NOT to "boil my honey and scoop off the scum that rises".

 

[GibX]

I have....but my luck has been horrible. I have not been able to get my batches to ferment the whole way. They always get stuck half way. I've added yeasts the are recommend for stuck fermentations, but they can't do it either. Even musts where I have used raw honey to sweeten also sticks half way threw. I have no idea why. Yeast energizer and nutrients haven't helped.

 

[Deezil]

I have....but my luck has been horrible. I have not been able to get my batches to ferment the whole way. They always get stuck half way. I've added yeasts the are recommend for stuck fermentations, but they can't do it either. Even musts where I have used raw honey to sweeten also sticks half way threw. I have no idea why. Yeast energizer and nutrients haven't helped.

Have you aerated the must well before pitching the yeast?
What about checking TA/pH? Pretty sure my stuck ferments were because my acidity was off in the beginning

 

[Marshall]

The majority of the honey that I use is unpasteurized and I have had no issues. I also opt NOT to "boil my honey and scoop off the scum that rises".

I have unfiltered unheated honey and am going to use it that way. It seems the major problems come from lack of 02 and high (or is it low) PH from fruit. My 1 gallon recipe has 3lbs honey, 1 orange, raisins, 1 lb dark cherries. Will this cause PH problems and if so, what should I change?

 

[Deezil]

I have unfiltered unheated honey and am going to use it that way. It seems the major problems come from lack of 02 and high (or is it low) PH from fruit. My 1 gallon recipe has 3lbs honey, 1 orange, raisins, 1 lb dark cherries. Will this cause PH problems and if so, what should I change?

All the things mentioned will vary in acidity, from year to year.. So its gonna fluctuate & you'll need to take measurements to make sure its within the appropriate range.. I couldnt tell you right off the bat if you'll have a problem but its not too hard to tell once you run the tests and know the numbers

Sounds tasty though, must say

 

[Marshall]

All the things mentioned will vary in acidity, from year to year.. So its gonna fluctuate & you'll need to take measurements to make sure its within the appropriate range.. I couldnt tell you right off the bat if you'll have a problem but its not too hard to tell once you run the tests and know the numbers

Sounds tasty though, must say

What would I test for and how do I test it?

 

[Deezil]

Most people start off winemaking measuring TA and later move onto both TA & pH readings.

The link provided goes over the general procedure but be sure to look at the strength of your ingredients as it influences the amounts needed in measuring

 

[Marshall]

Most people start off winemaking measuring TA and later move onto both TA & pH readings.

The link provided goes over the general procedure but be sure to look at the strength of your ingredients as it influences the amounts needed in measuring

Thank you.

 

[fatbloke]

TA readings are fine with grape musts, as you get a number that is given as tartaric acid in ppt or is it ppm - don't recall. Yet whether a titration kit will actually measure just tartaric or total acids, I don't know (for some bloody stupid reasons, the TA kits sold here, give results as sulphuric acid so need converting to tartaric). As it very much depends on the ingredients as to what the numbers are likely to reflect i.e. traditional before pitch will be mostly gluconic acid, during ferment both gluconic and carbonic acids. With fruit it depends on what the main acid will be according to what the fruit is i.e. lemons etc are citric as we all know, while apples are malic, grapes tartaric etc etc....

How much acid is actually in a batch will depend on the ingredients. I find it much easier to use a pocket pH meter and then mix the batch up as per what you like or as the ingredient list suggests, then test with the pH meter.

The "sweet spot" for meads is about 3.4 to 3.5pH. If it drops below 3.0 then it will often cause the ferment too slow or stick, ferments above the 3.4-3.5 area are less of an issue - after all, it's still an acid environment for the yeast.

Aeration/stirring during the early part of the ferment (either the 1/3rd or 1/2 sugar breaks) help to reduce the pH swings that are typical of fermenting meads. The vigorous stirring motion incorporates air/O2 that the yeast needs for development, but it also keeps sediment in suspension, creating the nucleation points that the dissolved carbonic acid (produced by the ferment) can grab onto in it's gaseous form i.e. carbon di-oxide creating bubbles that rise up out of the ferment.

Where the actual 1/3rd or 1/2 breaks are depends on how much honey/level of starting gravity. They also provide handy points to add staggered nutrients etc....

 

[Marshall]

Hi Fatbloke. I've read your response several times as I am new to this. What I get from it is that I should stir at several points in the fermentation to keep 02 up and PH swings down. Am I correct in assuming I should stir when bubbling slows down?

 

[mmadmikes1]

I not only dont boil the honey but believe it ruins the flavor( I have tried it) I do warm the water/Honey to 90 degrees and let the wax float off. Stuff is great on toast so have bread handy when starting a batch of Mead. I shot for 3.5 on mead so guess I am agreeing with the fat guy. It is not as tough as I was lead to believe when I did my first batch just try to get everything at ideal conditions. Make a list!!!!!

 

[fatbloke]

Hi Fatbloke. I've read your response several times as I am new to this. What I get from it is that I should stir at several points in the fermentation to keep 02 up and PH swings down. Am I correct in assuming I should stir when bubbling slows down?

It's usual to blitz the hell out of the base liquid before any fruit additions, likewise, it's current recommended practice to aerate at least once daily up to the 1/3rd break (a start gravity of 1.090 would have a 1/3rd break at 1.060). Some like to aerate 2 or 3 times daily, but for a lot of us, that's not practical. I aerate with a stick blender, liquidiser or food processor if I can, it makes it easier and seems to convey more than enough O2 into the batch. I also stop at the 1/3rd break.

The speed of the bubbles is a very poor method of judging the ferment. A hydrometer reading is the only sure fire method. Some yeasts bubble like hell then stop, others don't produce as much CO2. Some do, but it's held in the batch as carbonic acid - which is one of the reasons to aerate, any sediment is mixed in creating the nucleation points that the carbonic acid catches onto as CO2, which rises as the bubbles.

The other reason for this, is that with staggered nutrient additions/regimes, adding the nutrient can create the nucleation points instead, and when that happens you can end up with a mead eruption/fountain. It's usually most sensible to place the fermenter in a sink (if possible) and start the stirring gently, allow the foam to rise but keep mixing and as the gas escapes the foam settles, then if you're adding something it's safe to add it then, so it gets nicely mixed in while you're aerating for the O2 addition to keep the yeast happy......

 

[Marshall]

Thank you.