How soon can you bottle?

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tmmii

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From juice buckets, fermentation has been done for a while, wines still have a "yeasty" smell. If I get them de gassed, will the yeast smell go away if I bottle? I bulk aged my last batch for over a year, I'm ordering more juice next month and these will be at 6 months. Trying to get buy without having to buy more carboys.


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Bottle when there are absolutly NO lees in the bottom of your csrboy after 30 days.
 
Everything's been clear for a good month or two, biggest concern is that yeasty smell. That goes away? And I ask every time I bottle, how much K meta should I add into a 6 gal batch? I need to start writing things down!


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Especially if these are reds---you should bulk age for one year. In that time, they are always clear. At least they are for us. If it smells yeasty, it's probably still going to be dropping sediment. I think it's bad practice to manually degass juice buckets.
 
Got it. Time for more carboys..... Again. Wonder how mad the girlfriend will be!

When bulk aging do you guys rack at all? The last ones I did I racked about every 3 mos.


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Six months is early to bottle. What kind of wine--white or red? Do you know what the PH is?
 
Moscato Chardonnay and Cabernet
Don't know ph how would I test?


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Oh--the cab should most certainly not be bottled yet. We made a Cab from Calif juice last fall and it tastes SO good, even now. But we refuse to bottle it until it reaches that one year mark. You know---you can still have some CO2 on a wine that isn't at the 1 year mark. And the wine is not stable until ALL the sediment has dropped.

The other 2 may have lower PH but it's hard to say because these buckets are all adjusted before we get them. But it's always a good idea to know PH because this is one of the factors for knowing how much free SO2 is needed for preservation.

Now, the best way to test PH is with a PH meter. And the best way to sulfite your wines is with an SO2 tester. A PH meter is not real expensive, but an SO analyzer is on the pricey side. So if you can't test for free SO2, the best protocol is to be sure you have about 50PPM of free sulfite. I would add 1/4 tsp of meta to each of them, as the sulfite that was on them when you received the buckets is mostly bound at this point.

I would let the whites age some more---you can get surprised by CO2 issues in the bottle sometimes when you bottle at 6 months.

Let's discuss this yeasty flavor--is it in all the wines, or only one? If it's in all of them, this might be due to nutrient issues. How did you use your nutrient on these? All these juice buckets today come with culture in them. So by the time you get them, some fermentation has been ongoing and the yeast have used up the nitogen present in the grapes. You've got to step-feed your nutrient in order to have a good fermentation. Nitrogen is the basic component that you're trying to feed yeast--it makes the yeast more tolerant to alcohol and allows the yeast to reproduce more easily. AND I would NOT bottle these if they are yeasty--that right there is a no-no. Go by some more carboys.
 
Everything's been clear for a good month or two, biggest concern is that yeasty smell. That goes away? And I ask every time I bottle, how much K meta should I add into a 6 gal batch? I need to start writing things down!


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I'm terrible at note taking! Sometimes I can't clearly read my own writing! lol But very important to keep notes especially if you have 4 different wines going at one time
 
6 months is close to ready, the whites for sure.

Try splash racking or vacuum racking to get rid of the yeasty smell.

How much k-meta? How much is in there now? I shoot for 50 ppm, but 40 is good.
 
Decided to make today a wine day, racked them and tasted, yeasty smell is completely gone.

I add 1/4 tsp of k meta when I rack, don't know the levels, are the 100 dollar testers what I need?

I didn't add any nutrient on these, they had yeast from the place I bought them at already in them, so just let them go.


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Are you talking PH meters? I would think a PH tester in that price range would be very good. How long have you been making wine? If you stay with the hobby, a PH meter would be a good investment. And when you can, an SO2 tester would be wise.

Now you could also look at a Vinmetrica 200 which will measure PH, TA AND a sulfite tester all in one. It is $355.00. But a $100.00 PH meter, and an SO2 analyzer (Vinmetrica 100) which is $245.00 is about the same price as the 200.
 
Turock, I'm reading your other replies on juice buckets, prepare for more questions!

This hobby, the more you know, the more you realize you don't know!


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Yes, if you want to use the aeration-oxidation method that is fine. It's a lot less money than the analyzer. Your wine will benefit from proper SO2 levels and you'll never worry about opening a bottle and seeing it is oxidized.

Oh, I couldn't agree more about the fact that the more you learn, the more you NEED to learn. This will be our 25th year of winemaking and I know there's still alot for me to learn and areas I am weak in. That's why I'm always studying--but then I've always been a student of life and enjoy studying things. I've learned much from my years on wine forums, too.

I'm always happy to help--as are many on this site. Always feel free to ask.
 
Can you do a pretty much step by step on what you do with the nutrient? And when do you first rack and then after? Each time add K meta automatically or do you analyze first?


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What kind of nutrient do you use? Some people use Fermaid K and some just use regular nutrient which is DAP. For regular nutrient, the dose is 1 tsp per gallon. So if you're making 6 gallons you need 6 tsp total. So split the dose in half. 3 tsp right when you pitch the yeast, then the other 3 tsp before you hit the 50% dry stage. Always step-feed nutrient so that you don't get sluggish or stuck ferments and have no problems with H2S which happens when the yeast become stressed due to lack of nitrogen. Don't add nutrient past the 50% dry stage because the yeast can no longer utilize it.

Fermaid K dosing is slightly different--last dose at 1/3 sugar depletion.

We do the first rack when there's quite a bit of debris--about 2 weeks after being racked into a carboy. But then, most of our ferments are done with grapes and fruit so there's more debris than with a juice bucket. You may only need to rack one time with bucket juice. But after the first racking, if you see another 1/2 or so of lees go ahead and rack it off. Now when you get to that light dusting of lees on the bottom, allow the wine to bulk age on them.

We always test for SO2. We test at that first racking because much of the initial SO2 that the bucket came with will be bound up by the sugars,bacteria, yeast,etc. And most buckets have little SO2 on them so that it doesn't interfere for MLF. So by the time your primary ferment is done, 9 times out of 10 your SO2 is going to be very low. The amount of free SO2 you need is determined by the PH of the wine. So this is another reason to take PH readings. Once you have the free SO2 up to where it needs to be, you probably don't need anymore as long as you're not removing the airlock, thieving from the carboy, etc.

If you go to www.morewine.com in their Moremanuals section you can read all about SO2, and more, for free.
 

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