Do you put the bubbler airlock on after sprinking the yeast

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tysfoot

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Hi, just bought my new wine making kit today and just finished the primary fermentation
Do i put the bubbler airlock on straight after putting the yeast in or do i just put the lid on and leave the hole in the top for air to get in/out


cheers guys
 
Hi, on my first try as well. With my kit the airlock is always on the first and second fermenter bins.

cheers
 
Hi, just bought my new wine making kit today and just finished the primary fermentation
Do i put the bubbler airlock on straight after putting the yeast in or do i just put the lid on and leave the hole in the top for air to get in/out


cheers guys

During primary fermentation, set the lid in place, but don't snap it down.
Place a towel, small cloth, or paper towel over the air lock hole to prevent critters from going inside.
Only lock down the wine under air lock once the wine is in secondary fermentation.
 
You're quicker than me, Robie! I just made a similar post on the Introductory thread.
 
So in primary stage is it necessary for the air to get in and out ?

Its funny as my instrucions didnt say to use the airlock yet but it did on the youtube video, i wont put it on till the stabilising and clearing state as it says on my instruction i got with the wine.

Im using World Vineyard Reisling 30 bottle kit
 
When resting the lid on the top shall i put a towel over the top to stop the lid from moving and things getting in
 
I just set my lid slightly off to the side leaving a little crack for the oxygen to get in. Some just use a towel by itself. It's probably good to give your wine a gentle stir every day to re-suspend the yeast.
 
I have always had an airlock in the hole from the start with the lid sitting loosely on the bucket. All kits have fermented with no problem. Whatever works for you as I don't stir either unless I have floating oak or grape bag.

good luck
 
i think i may just stick to the instructions that i have with my wine kit and leave the airlock off untill later, ill rest the lid on top
 
..my kit says cover loosley with lid or use a sealed lid with fermentation lock and stopper.

I did have trouble getting it going (the yeast) and after a few days and some posts on here ...a stir was what I needed to get it bubbling.

cheers
 
..my kit says cover loosley with lid or use a sealed lid with fermentation lock and stopper.

I did have trouble getting it going (the yeast) and after a few days and some posts on here ...a stir was what I needed to get it bubbling.

cheers

The main reason why the stir worked is likely because the yeast needed oxygen, not necessarily because they needed to be stirred up from the bottom. Hence, don't lock down the primary under a snapped down lid and an air lock.
 
Just to clairify, I know yeast need o2 because I primairily make beer and areiate the wort before adding the yeast then top and lock. I also do this to my wine with good results ie. nothing ever stuck. So do wine yeasties need more o2 than beer yeastie beasties or what?
Not trying to be a smarta$$ I just always wanted to know
 
Just to clairify, I know yeast need o2 because I primairily make beer and areiate the wort before adding the yeast then top and lock. I also do this to my wine with good results ie. nothing ever stuck. So do wine yeasties need more o2 than beer yeastie beasties or what?
Not trying to be a smarta$$ I just always wanted to know

Sorry, I have never made beer. I doubt there would be much of a difference, though, where the yeast are concerned.

People do all this a thousand different ways, many, many times in a row and have good success every time. The problem with not doing it "by the science", is when something slightly marginal comes along. So, do what ever works for you. Nothing beats your own experience.
 
Thanks for clarifying robie.

Just wanted to hear from someone with more experience than me.
 
Provided you have poured your juice/crushed your grapes/vigorously mixed your concentrate, there should be plenty of dissolved oxygen in your juice/must to facilitate yeast growth. Yeast only require O2 for the growth phase. Once fermentation progresses beyond the initial stages (approx. 1/3 sugar depletion) oxygen is no longer required in any significant quantity.

I don't think there is much oxygen uptake by the must during fermentation whether you keep the lid off or not. Provided you weren't too careful about sloshing and splashing while mixing your kit, I'd go ahead and put the airlock on. I suppose you could keep it off for about the first 1/3 drop in sugar if you wanted to play it really safe and optimize your chances of O2 uptake.

With grape wines, it may be wise to perform an aerating racking at about 1/3 sugar depletion to coincide with nutrient additions at that time, but after that initial stage, oxygen does not determine the difference between successful and unsuccessful fermentation. (There are other possible benefits to later O2 additions such as tannin polymerization, colour stabilization, elimination of reductive off odours, etc., but these are unrelated to the progress of fermentation.)
 
It's surprising how many threads there are about this topic on these forums. Clearly there are many ways to work this successfully. But, being the analytical guy that I am, I have to ask a couple of questions:

1. If during primary fermentation, the production of CO2 is sufficient to "protect the wine from oxidation", as so many have pointed out, then how is it that keeping the cover loose, or leaving the airlock hole open could allow oxygen to get in at all? Therefore, what harm is there in putting the airlock on, since everything touching the must is CO2 anyway?

2. If you don't use the airlock in the primary, but rather just cover the hole with a towel, is there any harm in just using the 3-piece airlock with the middle piece removed? Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing (namely keeping critters out)? Again, it seems unlikely that oxygen could get in through that hole with all the CO2 coming out of it.

Overall, it just seems that the real answer is that the airlock is 'not necessary' during primary, but the idea that it's letting in 'oxygen needed for the yeast' seems unlikely. But, I'd love to better understand from the experienced guys :)
 
It's surprising how many threads there are about this topic on these forums. Clearly there are many ways to work this successfully. But, being the analytical guy that I am, I have to ask a couple of questions:

1. If during primary fermentation, the production of CO2 is sufficient to "protect the wine from oxidation", as so many have pointed out, then how is it that keeping the cover loose, or leaving the airlock hole open could allow oxygen to get in at all? Therefore, what harm is there in putting the airlock on, since everything touching the must is CO2 anyway?

2. If you don't use the airlock in the primary, but rather just cover the hole with a towel, is there any harm in just using the 3-piece airlock with the middle piece removed? Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing (namely keeping critters out)? Again, it seems unlikely that oxygen could get in through that hole with all the CO2 coming out of it.

Overall, it just seems that the real answer is that the airlock is 'not necessary' during primary, but the idea that it's letting in 'oxygen needed for the yeast' seems unlikely. But, I'd love to better understand from the experienced guys :)

1) The CO2 does not seal out 100% of the O2. if present, some O2 will get to the wine. there's a lot more current on top of the wine than you might think.

2) Again, the problem is more that when someone seals the lid and adds an air lock, they will likely not remove the lid at all for extended periods of time. Wine needs stirred during primary to add plenty O2. If you have the wine locked down, it is not likely it is going to even get opened, let along stirred. With the lid not snapped down, some O2 will get in and to the wine. In my opinion, probably not enough will get in; that's why wine, even white wine, needs stirred periodically during primary. Yes, I know even some commercial wineries lock down huge tanks of white wine during primary. I really don't know how they get by with it, but I know they do.

Taking the inside piece out of a three-piece air lock is not the answer. Gnats and other very small critters can get through the small holes in the lid of the air lock. Besides, some of us prefer the "S"-style air lock.

I have written the following several times, but I'll do it again. I guess I need to post it somewhere that I can just post a link to it in the future.

As I have said, there are many different ways to ferment out the wine. Many people don't stir or otherwise allow air to get to their wine during primary and they produce good wine time after time.

Here's what the science says (paraphrased by me):
Alcoholic fermentation by yeast is divided into two main stages - aerobic and anaerobic.

During the first stage - aerobic, which is called primary fermentation, the yeast are acclimating and multiplying at an incredible rate, all the while they are converting sugars to alcohol, CO2 and other minor chemicals. This, as demonstrated by the high activity in primary, is happening at an enormous rate.

At some point in time, wine making instructions will have you lock down the wine by restricting as much as possible the amount of oxygen getting to the wine. This is the beginning of the anaerobic stage of fermentation.

This is the point at which secondary fermentation begins. Anaerobic and secondary fermentation are pretty much the same stage. Some kit makers have us close down the wine at different SG's. That's because they feel that is the correct point to start anaerobic fermentation for that particular wine combined with the particular yeast they have provided.

So, primary fermentation is really aerobic fermentation; secondary is the anaerobic stage.

One can restrict the amount of oxygen getting to the wine during the aerobic stage; the wine will likely turn out fine, if it doesn't get stuck, of course. However, in the end, it is possible the wine is not going to be as "complete" as it might have been. Maybe the yeast were starved of the necessary oxygen and maybe they did their job in the end, but maybe just not as well as they could have. Measuring the SG tells you how much sugar is left, but it doesn't speak of the health of the yeast.

Most stuck fermentations get that way during secondary fermentation. maybe that's because the yeast started that stage in an unhealthy state and they couldn't recover. That is just my own guess, though, but it sounds logical to me.

It's the science!!!

In the end, make the wine however you want. It's your wine.

I hope this helps.
 

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