Any one used Lalvin 71B-1122 for acid reduction?
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djrockinsteve
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I use Lavin exclusively and have used that strain often. My acid drops out during cold stabilization, often while they are clearing prior to that.
Rob told me his Brianna was acidic while ours was not yet they came from same batch. Not sure what strain he used on it, I used EC-1118
I didn't take a reading since it was so good.
I fermented on the Brianna and Lacrosse skins the wild yeast but haven't bottled it yet. I will let you know.
Rob told me his Brianna was acidic while ours was not yet they came from same batch. Not sure what strain he used on it, I used EC-1118
I didn't take a reading since it was so good.
I fermented on the Brianna and Lacrosse skins the wild yeast but haven't bottled it yet. I will let you know.
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It works well for a fruity high acid cold climate grape. I use it quite a bit for whites.
Pumpkinman
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I used it on one batch of Amarone, it has created a very nice wine, one of my favorites.
wineman2013
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1112 works to drop Malic durring primary by 3 to 10 percent .
Maurvin b works even better , and drops Malic by 55 percent durring primary .
If you are working with high acid very low ph hybrid grapes this yeast is a great way to get the ph up and allow you to innoculate with MLB that normaly won't start with a ph of 3.2 or lower .
And in a white wine is a great way to smooth out a high acid white like reisling without doing mlf
http://www.maurivin.com/media/21.pdf
Maurvin b works even better , and drops Malic by 55 percent durring primary .
If you are working with high acid very low ph hybrid grapes this yeast is a great way to get the ph up and allow you to innoculate with MLB that normaly won't start with a ph of 3.2 or lower .
And in a white wine is a great way to smooth out a high acid white like reisling without doing mlf
http://www.maurivin.com/media/21.pdf
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djrockinsteve
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This year don't add water. Acid can be reduced several ways plus were you able to get all the juice out of those thick skins? You need all of the juice and pressing alone won't get that.
jimmyjames23
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Calcium Carbonate works too.
But a low acid producing yeast is a huge helper.
But a low acid producing yeast is a huge helper.
have you tested for TA ? what kind of numbers are you getting?
my normal plan of attack with high acid varietals is to use Maurvin B , then do MLF , when its done I cold stabilize .
if its still sharp I add 3 tsp per carboy of a product called biolees then age for a year.
I do this and it works well , I find carbonate makes the wine taste a bit like pond water and kills the fruit flavors so thats why I don't use it.
if all that isn't enough , I have used a couple juice pails added to the must to bring fruit up and acid down.
I use zinfandel with foch and and merlot or cab sauv pail with frontenac.
1 pail added to 200 lbs of crushed grapes before pitching the yeast.
this worked well with fruit from young vines . as the vines get older I use the first method.
my normal plan of attack with high acid varietals is to use Maurvin B , then do MLF , when its done I cold stabilize .
if its still sharp I add 3 tsp per carboy of a product called biolees then age for a year.
I do this and it works well , I find carbonate makes the wine taste a bit like pond water and kills the fruit flavors so thats why I don't use it.
if all that isn't enough , I have used a couple juice pails added to the must to bring fruit up and acid down.
I use zinfandel with foch and and merlot or cab sauv pail with frontenac.
1 pail added to 200 lbs of crushed grapes before pitching the yeast.
this worked well with fruit from young vines . as the vines get older I use the first method.
I can tell you with confidence that you can move the PH 6 tenths with calcium carbonate and not encounter any chalky off-flavor. We do it every year on our blackberry.
POTASSIUM carbonate is used for minor tweaking only in the post ferment. However, it can damage the nose and flavor of some delicate wines. We don't even own any potassium carbonate because we always acid adjust at the primary pre-ferment.
Adame--the only time you use water for acid adjustment is when working with a fruit that is extremely acidic where using all calcium carbonate would be prohibitive--like on Mustang grapes that start with a very,very low PH. Otherwise, shun the water for acid adjustment and go to calcium carbonate. Many years ago we finally discovered this secret and our wines became first class because of it. Water also becomes necessary in some wines like red raspberry--if you try to make it with no water, the result is not as good as a traditional recipe. But for the most part, we use no water on over 99% of our wines.
POTASSIUM carbonate is used for minor tweaking only in the post ferment. However, it can damage the nose and flavor of some delicate wines. We don't even own any potassium carbonate because we always acid adjust at the primary pre-ferment.
Adame--the only time you use water for acid adjustment is when working with a fruit that is extremely acidic where using all calcium carbonate would be prohibitive--like on Mustang grapes that start with a very,very low PH. Otherwise, shun the water for acid adjustment and go to calcium carbonate. Many years ago we finally discovered this secret and our wines became first class because of it. Water also becomes necessary in some wines like red raspberry--if you try to make it with no water, the result is not as good as a traditional recipe. But for the most part, we use no water on over 99% of our wines.
jimmyjames23
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+1
I use CC all the time. I get mine naturally from cleaned, de-membraned, baked, crushed eggshells.
I use CC all the time. I get mine naturally from cleaned, de-membraned, baked, crushed eggshells.
try the maurvin B , mlf and colds stabilising , I assure you on a cold climate grape wine, it will produce the best results.
the malic will be metabolised by the yeast softening the wine , mlf will enhance complexity convert the remaining malic to softer lactic acid and bring out the fruit and if needed cold stabilisation will drop some tartaric further softening the wine. if this approach can work on frontinac , it can work for most high acid wines.
carbonate offers none of these benefits , and involves adding something thnot normaly a part of grape winemaking practice.
if you are working with 16 g/l type fruit , you could do the fermentation and stabilisation protocol above and if after all that and cold stabilising its still to sharp , I would reccomend blending in some low acid wine instead of carbonate .
some of the best cold climate wines I've tasted have had some central valley or lodi wine blended in atg barreling . some cv cabernet sauvigion is a great way to add a little tannin (something many hybrids lack) and since alot of it is about 4.5 g/l TA it can balce a high acid wine.
10-20% of this blending can work wonders
if you must use carbonate most of the literature says to add your carbonate prior to primary fermentation minimising any potential negative fruit impact.
the malic will be metabolised by the yeast softening the wine , mlf will enhance complexity convert the remaining malic to softer lactic acid and bring out the fruit and if needed cold stabilisation will drop some tartaric further softening the wine. if this approach can work on frontinac , it can work for most high acid wines.
carbonate offers none of these benefits , and involves adding something thnot normaly a part of grape winemaking practice.
if you are working with 16 g/l type fruit , you could do the fermentation and stabilisation protocol above and if after all that and cold stabilising its still to sharp , I would reccomend blending in some low acid wine instead of carbonate .
some of the best cold climate wines I've tasted have had some central valley or lodi wine blended in atg barreling . some cv cabernet sauvigion is a great way to add a little tannin (something many hybrids lack) and since alot of it is about 4.5 g/l TA it can balce a high acid wine.
10-20% of this blending can work wonders
if you must use carbonate most of the literature says to add your carbonate prior to primary fermentation minimising any potential negative fruit impact.
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I actually tried the crushed eggshells in a 6 gallon carboy. I used four eggs, cleaned them, removed the membrane, and baked them at 350. Left them in the carboy from Sat. until last night. The wine mellowed out a lot but now it taste like eggs!
djrockinsteve
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Never had success with them. That's why many of us bought the meters.
a couple of tips with foch , use optired or redstyle durring primary to fix the colour and tame the wild flavours a bit .
use medium toast american oak chips in the primary to fix colour add a little tannin and reduce green character.
then press at about 5 brix , getting the wine off the skins early will reduce the metalic character foch gets when left on the skins too long.
use medium toast american oak chips in the primary to fix colour add a little tannin and reduce green character.
then press at about 5 brix , getting the wine off the skins early will reduce the metalic character foch gets when left on the skins too long.
