7 gal fermenter enough for a skins kit?

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sremick

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So I often have a problem when using my 6 gal fermenting buckets for wine kits with skins. The extra volume added by the skins often causes overflow to blow into the airlock (or even onto the top of the lid). I've read that a 7.9 gal pail should be used for kits with skins (by a company selling a 7.9 gal bucket). However I've also considered upgrading to a stainless steel fermenter with a conical bottom. SS Brewtech makes a7-gal version that appeals to me. Is 7 gal enough for kits with skins?
 

cmason1957

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A 10 gallon white Brute trash can is pretty durn cheap (probably under $30 US) and works just great. If you think you might eventually go bigger and do two kits at once, go for a 20 gallon, it's about the same cost. If you can't find white, gray is known by me to be stamped with NSF, yellow might be.

I am sure you next question is going to be where to put the airlock, my answer is away, until it is time to rack to a carboy. I cover my trashcan's with the lids on loosely, some others use a towel over the top, held in place with rubber bands or something. Particularly with red wines, oxygen isn't a bad thing during the initial stages of fermentation. Plus, it makes it much easier to get into your ferment and stir it every day making sure those skins are kept wet the entire time and provide some good the entire time of the ferment.
 

Johnd

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So I often have a problem when using my 6 gal fermenting buckets for wine kits with skins. The extra volume added by the skins often causes overflow to blow into the airlock (or even onto the top of the lid). I've read that a 7.9 gal pail should be used for kits with skins (by a company selling a 7.9 gal bucket). However I've also considered upgrading to a stainless steel fermenter with a conical bottom. SS Brewtech makes a7-gal version that appeals to me. Is 7 gal enough for kits with skins?
During the years that kits with skins were standard fare, the 7.9 gal. fermenters worked fine, though they were close to overload a few times. The 10 gal. Brute was the next one I tried, it worked great (as @cmason1957 said above) and allowed a good bit of freeboard for caps and to mess with skin / seed removal.
 

sremick

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Ok so lots of love for the 10-gal "Brute" (is that plastic even food-grade????).... but like I said, I'm looking to switch to stainless steel. So the pending question: is 7-gallons a large enough capacity for a kit with skins?
 

cmason1957

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Ok so lots of love for the 10-gal "Brute" (is that plastic even food-grade????).... but like I said, I'm looking to switch to stainless steel. So the pending question: is 7-gallons a large enough capacity for a kit with skins?
Plastic is food safe. If you see NSF stamped on it, you know it is. I think 7 gallons is just big enough for a 6 gallon kit with skins, you really want more than that. To account for foaming and give you room to stir.
 

Chuck E

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Ok so lots of love for the 10-gal "Brute" (is that plastic even food-grade????).... but like I said, I'm looking to switch to stainless steel. So the pending question: is 7-gallons a large enough capacity for a kit with skins?
I would look at 10 gallon SS tanks as a starting point. I think SS Brewpoint makes a nice one.
 

sremick

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I would look at 10 gallon SS tanks as a starting point. I think SS Brewpoint makes a nice one.
I'm assuming you meant SS Brewtech. Unfortunately they jump right from 7 gallon to 14 gallon, so that's why I was trying to see if I could get by with 7 gallon. Sounds like I'm going to have to get a 14 gallon and just be overflowing with extra space when making kits.
 

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