Vacuum Filtering gone all wrong

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What vacuum level is too much?

Sveral posts in different threads have asked the question what level of vacuum should you draw either as you rack/transfer your wine from one glass carboy to another and thereby degas the wine further, it or as you vacuum fill your wine bottles.
A couple of considerations: one is the integrity of the glass carboys, and the level of the wine in the carboys. My approach to date is to max the vacuum draw, which for my pump is 27 in Hg, or about .52 psi absolute ( 14.7 - .52 relative) . This is a lot of vacuum and I suspect my gauge may be misreading although I have no easy way to check it. No effects so far on the glass carboys, but it certainly does a number on the plastic ones. I feel a lot safer using the carboys that have the extra ridges running vertically ( have a green tint to them).
The second consideration is the effect on the dissolved CO2, and the ethanol, that is is solution. I have noticed that if I add small stainless steel screws, to the bottom of the recieving wine, I will get much more Carbon dioxide release at lower vaccum levels than without. My guess is they are nucleation sites for the CO2 coming out of solution. More importantly tho' is the effect of very strong vacuum on the alcohol in solution. I finally found a boiling point versusatmosphere table for ethanol (ethanol producers database). Given the average temp that we work at is 20 deg C, then
 
Do yourself a favor and stop using vacuum filtration. There are so many more potential problems to vacuum filtration systems than pressure filtration. Don't take my word for it, just try it and then let the facts be your deciding factors.
I guarantee that your problems will be eliminated.
 
Do yourself a favor and stop using vacuum filtration. There are so many more potential problems to vacuum filtration systems than pressure filtration. Don't take my word for it, just try it and then let the facts be your deciding factors.
I guarantee that your problems will be eliminated.

Jvernice - I personally talked to rhattin the other day, his main questions were what levels of vacuum for the different procedures.You have expressed your views before about how you like pressure filtration. If you read his whole article not once does he mention anything about filtration :ot:
 
Was there an answer to he air bubbles?

I found i had to remove the red air release button and put in a stainless screw to firmly pull the gasket and seal this opening. these filter housings are made for positive pressure and not vacuums so they are going to pull in air if they are spring loaded. Also i had to use teflon tape on the npt fittings and really tighten the hoses on the clamps. Works well now.
 
Was there an answer to he air bubbles?

I found i had to remove the red air release button and put in a stainless screw to firmly pull the gasket and seal this opening. these filter housings are made for positive pressure and not vacuums so they are going to pull in air if they are spring loaded. Also i had to use teflon tape on the npt fittings and really tighten the hoses on the clamps. Works well now.

Take a look at this thread -
http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f71/tips-tricks-using-whole-house-filter-37737/

I also do not recommend the relief valve as like you noted it will suck in air. And yes telfon tape on NPT threads is always a good idea - What size hose are you using for the filter barbs ??
 
Take a look at this thread -
http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f71/tips-tricks-using-whole-house-filter-37737/

I also do not recommend the relief valve as like you noted it will suck in air. And yes telfon tape on NPT threads is always a good idea - What size hose are you using for the filter barbs ??

I'm using the thicker vacuum hose you sent me. Its extra thickness may require clamps be firmed up more, or perhaps all hoses need to snuged up tight. I used a nut driver, but a small ratchet my might have given more torque on the clamp.
 
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