At what SG do you normally put your Skeeter Pee under airlock? I guess I just assumed to let it ferment dry with a towel over the bucket and when it went dry to rack into carboy with airlock. I see others have did different. Mine started at 1.070 and after 2 days it's at 1.060 at about 73 degrees. Wish I could get it up to 75-78 but wife won't let me put it in the warm rooms. The brew belt is helping a little. Wife says it stinks. I think it smells good.
Putting under airlock
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djrockinsteve
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Some of us ferment dry in the bucket (primary), others rack to a carboy around 1.010 or around there.
What happens as the must begins to accumulate alcohol and there is less food and nutrients the yeast begin to slow down. Air becomes minimized and there is less CO2 coming off of the must to protect it from O2 (oxygen).
If you have a good fermentation you may ferment dry in a bucket and rack once fermentation has stopped. This could be anywhere but normally around 1.000 or lower.
If you are experiencing a slow ferm. then you may wish to rack anytime after 1.020 What you need to be careful of is you will now be cutting off oxygen to the yeast which is greatly needed for their survival. Simply stirring does not necessarily add O2 to the must. It can become a dbl. edge sword if racked too soon.
Recommending keeping as warm as you can, stir frequently releasing CO2 and adding O2 numerous times daily. If you like you may snap on a lid with an airlock when your must reaches 1.000 and allow it to ferment dry under airlock in the primary. Prob. 2-3 more days. The lid seals out oxygen which can begin to oxidize the wine and also seals in CO2 which will help to "blanket" the wine.
It's all a matter of what you were taught, what you find works for you and personal prefernce.
Skeeter pee having plenty of acid is in your favor though if you ferment dry in the bkt. Wrap a blanket around the primary to help hold in the heat. Prob. not good to wrap around the brew belt though. Get it off of the cold floor. Use a piece of carpet or corrugated board under the primary. Keep away from cold walls. Place near but not directly in front of heating ducts. These all may help.
What happens as the must begins to accumulate alcohol and there is less food and nutrients the yeast begin to slow down. Air becomes minimized and there is less CO2 coming off of the must to protect it from O2 (oxygen).
If you have a good fermentation you may ferment dry in a bucket and rack once fermentation has stopped. This could be anywhere but normally around 1.000 or lower.
If you are experiencing a slow ferm. then you may wish to rack anytime after 1.020 What you need to be careful of is you will now be cutting off oxygen to the yeast which is greatly needed for their survival. Simply stirring does not necessarily add O2 to the must. It can become a dbl. edge sword if racked too soon.
Recommending keeping as warm as you can, stir frequently releasing CO2 and adding O2 numerous times daily. If you like you may snap on a lid with an airlock when your must reaches 1.000 and allow it to ferment dry under airlock in the primary. Prob. 2-3 more days. The lid seals out oxygen which can begin to oxidize the wine and also seals in CO2 which will help to "blanket" the wine.
It's all a matter of what you were taught, what you find works for you and personal prefernce.
Skeeter pee having plenty of acid is in your favor though if you ferment dry in the bkt. Wrap a blanket around the primary to help hold in the heat. Prob. not good to wrap around the brew belt though. Get it off of the cold floor. Use a piece of carpet or corrugated board under the primary. Keep away from cold walls. Place near but not directly in front of heating ducts. These all may help.
Thank you for the great info. I am going to try to warm it up a little more so it will ferment faster and the risk of oxidation will be less. I will just ferment it dry in bucket so I don't interrupt the process. Thanks again.
