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Jwhelan939

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I have racked my MM kit twice thus far and cannot seem to get it right. I have the auto siphon, and I cannot seem to figure out how to get atleast most of the wine without getting some of the "crap". Any suggestions? When I look at it before racking I see about an inch of Lees, but after I rack there is only about a quater inch of muck.
 
You should keep it above the lees right up to the moment when its almost done as with any racking device. You can use a clamp of some sort to do this or just sit there and hold it above.
 
is anyone familiar with the Ferrari Automatic Bottle Filler. I was thinking about trying to use this for transfering. Realistically a carboy is nothing more than a big bottle, and if i can get rid of the need to pay attention the the siphon, which is always lost even with the autosiphon submerged, I can concentrate on not getting the lees. What do ya think?
 
I have come to the conclusion before that what you are seeing is an optical illusion. The lees look thicker when in the full carboy than they really are. I seems to build up arounf the outside especially after stirring, plus there is the curve in the bottom of the carboy. I see what you are experiencing and don't suck up any lees when transferring.It helps get out all the good stuff also if you tilt the carboy when about 1/3 full and put the siphon on the deep side. A med size wood spring clamp or anything about 3/4 of an inch thick works well. Be carful the first time since they can roll a little.


I haven't used the Ferrari before so I can't comment on that.
 
My experience has shown that the best racking method is to siphon down to about 1/2 or so then tilt the carboy on a folded dish towel or something. I will set my auto siphon so the weight of the hose holds it about half way down the carboy. Whenthe winegets there, it is time to hold it about 1-2 inched below the surface till rock bottom. When I get down to the bottom of the tilted jug. I dont sweat a touch of lees being transfered.


Another technique I do is to transfer everything that the siphon will pick up. Before the siphon starts picking up much lees, I transfer the junk into another container. For my gallon batches, I use a 1 Qt. sanitized jar. For a 6 gallon Carboy youcan use a2 qt. pitcher with a lid. By doing this into tall recepticles. I letthat sit for a few hours, or a day. Then I siphon off the cleared wine from those lees.


Most folksaround here just rack and then rack again afterXX days, weeks or months. It's all up to you.


Enjoy your hobby, and remember, they have been making wine for thousands of years. The only way you will really screw it up is bad cleaning practices.
 
appleman said:
I have come to the conclusion before that what you are seeing is an optical illusion. The lees look thicker when in the full carboy than they really are. I seems to build up around the outside especially after stirring, plus there is the curve in the bottom of the carboy. I see what you are experiencing and don't suck up any lees when transferring.It helps get out all the good stuff also if you tilt the carboy when about 1/3 full and put the siphon on the deep side. A med size wood spring clamp or anything about 3/4 of an inch thick works well. Be careful the first time since they can roll a little.


I haven't used the Ferrari before so I can't comment on that.

I agree with optical illusion.
I use regular racking canes with clips to hold them to the carboy.
I tilt the bottles with some sort of wedge before starting the siphon and more importantly i cut racking canes to fit each jug or carboy.


I just found an adjustable racking cane at the winery store.


I thought it was stupid but bought it because i wouldn't pay 15 dollars for some over sweetened wine witj a phony name on it..




The thing works flawlessly.Edited by: scotty
 
I agree with the optical illusion. It
changes as the liquid level goes below the curve of the side at the
bottom of the carboy.

I also use a clip and mark the cane to
show where it would touch the bottom but keep it well above the bottom
until the very end.

I prefer to tilt the carboy a day or so
before racking and think I've solved the slipping issue with a towel
under both carboy and wedge.

20071130_130501_Cab_pre_racking.jpg


That is our Cab d Avola MM AJ ready for racking tonight!

Edited by: Jack on Rainy
 
Thanks for all the posts guys. It would appear that the carboy wedges would be a good investment. As of now I am just tipping my carboy while holding the auto syphin and making sure of the level of the syphin. I also think I will try the tipping of the carboy for a little while before I begin racking. It makes sense that if the lees settle to the one side life could be easier.
I also like the idea of transferring the bottom toa thinner container, however I was worried that by doing this I would increase the oxygen exposure too much. Any thoughts?


Basically I am taking a miture of all of your advice. I am going to be starting my much anticipated chocolate raspberry port, and am very excited. Basically I want to get all of my technique bugs fixed before I start working on that one. I want that to be perfect!!!
 
I think the carboy wedge is not practical
i have two
they are too steep.
i use a chopping board and when the carboy is almost en\mpty, we tip it by hand
 
I found the carboy wedge too steep also - and tippy(the carboy tips on it easily). A block od 3/4" wood about 1x4" works well for me Use the 3/4" thickness to set the carboy on. It was just a scrap of oak I had from making the wine racks. Use what's on hand.
 
We usually just do the tip towards the end method and it's been working well for us. We've also been known to rack the bottom into a 2nd container and either let it sit a few days and add it back to the other or run it through a cone coffee filter. We have a reusable filter we use for this, either with or without the addition of a paper filter.
When we racked our Choc Orange Port I believe we used the paper filter and forced ourselves to drink the filtered product right away. (We used some marbles for top up.)
 
Yea I actually decided I was to cheap for the wedges. I am going to try just pine shims. I do contracting, so I already have some of these around. The benefit of them is their only 1/4 inch thick each, so you can stack as many, or as few as you can safely use.
 
I LIKE THAT IDEAL
smiley38.gif
MASTA.MY HAND THANKS YOU.I WAS UP TILL 1:00 LAST NIGHT RACKING ONE AND STARTING ANOTHER.
 

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