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justinb

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Thanks to this site, I'm embarking on my first wine making from Brehm frozen must. I'm picking up 3 pails of cab sauv and 1 pail of cab franc. I'm going to ferment all 4 pails together in a Brute trash can. I have a new press ordered, and I'm excited!!

I still need to order yeast and nutrients. I found a starter pack online with nutrients that are associated with these frozen pails. Do I need some of these nutrients such as: Fermaid K, opti red, Go Ferm, Ft rouge, Lallzyme EX??

Any suggestions for yeast? ICV 254 or MT is what I was thinking so far, but am open to all suggestions as I'm a newb.
 

Boatboy24

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GoFerm should be used when hydrating your yeast.

Add Fermaid at the onset of fermentation, and again at about 1/3 sugar depletion.

Lallzyme and Opti-Red are optional, but useful.
 

Ajmassa

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I use em for all types of primaries.
$5 pack for every 6 gal. And it comes with dosage instructions.
Use em all, they all have their benefits. And you ensure your getting the most out of what the pails have to offer.
Go ferm is only if you rehydrate yeast, making sure it kicks off. I used it just cause I had it. But never had a problem just sprinkling the yeast before.
 

Johnd

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Thanks to this site, I'm embarking on my first wine making from Brehm frozen must. I'm picking up 3 pails of cab sauv and 1 pail of cab franc. I'm going to ferment all 4 pails together in a Brute trash can. I have a new press ordered, and I'm excited!!

I still need to order yeast and nutrients. I found a starter pack online with nutrients that are associated with these frozen pails. Do I need some of these nutrients such as: Fermaid K, opti red, Go Ferm, Ft rouge, Lallzyme EX??

Any suggestions for yeast? ICV 254 or MT is what I was thinking so far, but am open to all suggestions as I'm a newb.
My grape winemaking has been exclusively from frozen must, and I've utilized the Brehm products as well, and have been quite pleased.

As far as what you need, you have a good start with the Brute and the press, and I'll share my typical protocol for well extracted reds, and what you may need along the way. My experience with the frozen Brehm must is that extraction of tannins, color, etc. is excellent due to the freezing / thawing / cold soak, but I add EX, probably overkill......... and have never had a tannin shortage and needed to add any tannin products. The color has always been fabulous.

I don't sulfite frozen must, just let it warm up slowly, and add Lallzyme EX after all of the ice is gone, mix gently a few times a day as it warms. Make your adjustments (BRIX / Acid) during this time (assuming you have testing ability???), make sure you warm your samples to room temps. If you'll share the BRIX, pH, and TA of the must you are purchasing, I'd be happy to tell you what to plan for if the numbers are the same on your must when you test it. Tartaric acid or Kcarb may be needed in the acid adjustment, water or sugar if the BRIX is too high / low.

Once it hits 55F, add yeast, and my preference is BM 4x4, sprinkled on top.
When the first cap comes up, add first dose of Fermaid K, followed by MLB inoculation (VP41, rehydrated with ActiML, and the MLB nutrient dose OptiMalo). Some folks don't add MLB until after pressing, I prefer it when there is little alcohol and higher temps from fermenting. Personal choice.

Punch down gently as frequently as my life allows, which is 5 or 6 times a day on weekdays, maybe 10 on weekends. Add second dose of Fermaid K when SG reaches 1.050 - 1.060 range.

Try to press around 1.000 +/-, then rack off of the lees 2-3 days later, let AF and MLF finish (need a testing mechanism). Rack and add SO2. Age, rack, clear, oak for a year or so. Bottle at a year or longer, drink in a couple of years.
 

NCWC

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I didn't like MT, but BM 4x4, BDX, VRB are good for Cab Sav if you want a fruit forward wine
VP41 for MLF
 

Boatboy24

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Just a note on Opti-Red and Lallzyme. You do not want to add them both at the same time, as the tannin can strip out the enzyme before it has time to work. First add your Lalllzyme, then wait at least 8 hours before adding Opti-Red (I often wait 12-24).
 

justinb

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Thanks for all the great input. I'm going to use the BM 4x4. What would you recommend for a testing kit for MLF?

Johnd...I will gladly pass on the numbers once I test everything. Your post was very helpful
 

Johnd

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Thanks for all the great input. I'm going to use the BM 4x4. What would you recommend for a testing kit for MLF?

Johnd...I will gladly pass on the numbers once I test everything. Your post was very helpful
Personally, I use paper chromatography to test for MLF completion, it's pretty easy. There are also test strips, little more pricey per test, but work as well and give you readings on remaining malic acid.

Glad to be able to help.
 

justinb

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Ive already made some newb mistakes, but Im still moving forward. My pH meter probe solution was dry. So Im not sure if its still accurate or not. I took the first reading after thawing and got 3.55, a few hours later it was 3.7. Not sure how that happened. I have 3 pails of cab sauv that was stated as having pH of 3.33, and 1 pail cab franc that was stated as having pH 3.77. All are in the Brute together.
Brix is 24.
I dont have a way to test TA (another mistake).
Supply company messed up my order and gave me enough BM 4x4 for 16 gallons. My local shop only had RC 212.
I went ahead and added both yeasts yesterday.

Im going to let the yeast do their thing for awhile, and punch down the cap a few times a day. Should I have done anything else? Im going to order a TA and MLF test kit tonight.
 

Johnd

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Ive already made some newb mistakes, but Im still moving forward. My pH meter probe solution was dry. So Im not sure if its still accurate or not. I took the first reading after thawing and got 3.55, a few hours later it was 3.7. Not sure how that happened. I have 3 pails of cab sauv that was stated as having pH of 3.33, and 1 pail cab franc that was stated as having pH 3.77. All are in the Brute together.
Brix is 24.
I dont have a way to test TA (another mistake).
Supply company messed up my order and gave me enough BM 4x4 for 16 gallons. My local shop only had RC 212.
I went ahead and added both yeasts yesterday.

Im going to let the yeast do their thing for awhile, and punch down the cap a few times a day. Should I have done anything else? Im going to order a TA and MLF test kit tonight.
Your in decent shape, BRIX 24 and pH 3.55ish is a good starting point, 3 packs of BM 4x4 probably would have done the job.
 

justinb

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Everything seems to be coming along nicely. I pressed the must 10 days ago. Secondary fermentation is slowing down, but still get a few bubbles in the airlocks. Brix is at 0. Should i wait until I start MLF?
Can I add oak during MLF, or wait?
 

Johnd

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Everything seems to be coming along nicely. I pressed the must 10 days ago. Secondary fermentation is slowing down, but still get a few bubbles in the airlocks. Brix is at 0. Should i wait until I start MLF?
Can I add oak during MLF, or wait?
Have you racked off of the gross lees? Normally this is done a few days after pressing. If so, it's MLB time, if not, get your rack done and add the MLB.

As far as the oak, you can really do it any time in the process, much wine is MLF'd in barrels.
 

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