Mosti Mondiale Wyeast Chianti in either the Barolo or Amarone???

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DrJayman

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Anyone experimented using this in the Meglioli's?

I have a 2012 LE of each on order and was planning to use wyeast for them and was curious if others had used this on these or other Barolo/Amarone's?

And I hate to ask this because I am certain it will be at least 3 years.... how long in your experience should these gems be left before pillaging?

Cheers!
 
Are you talking about the liquid Wyeast 4244? I have not used that yeast, but according to the Wyeast site, it has an alcohol tolerance of 14%. You may be cutting it too close for an Amarone. According to Wikipedia, the legal minimum for Amarone in Italy is 14%, and it easily surpasses 15%.

Lalvin EC-1118 has an alcohol tolerance of 18%. If you want to use a liquid yeast, Wyeast 4946 Zinfandel and 4021 Pasteur Champagne are the only ones in the Wyeast wine yeast lineup with an alcohol tolerance greater than 14%, rated at 18% and 17% respectively. I don't know how suitable they'd be for Amarone or Barolo.
 
I agree about the alcohol tolerance. If the alcohol gets too high for the yeast, fermentation will stop. Always use a yeast that has a tolerance higher than the expected ABV.

However, there are a lot better yeast strains available for Italian wines than the EC-1118.

Here is a yeast/wine pairing chart. Hopefully it will help.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http://www.morewinemaking.com/public/pdf/wyeastpair.pdf

Decide what characteristics you like; then check the alcohol tolerance of that yeast.
 
I have used D-254 (up to 16%) and RP-15 (up to 17%) on Italian varietals with excellent results. I used D-254 on a Meglioli Amarone last year and it fermented flawlessly. I do rehydrate with Go Ferm Protect and make a yeast starter (beer making habit) to give the yeast a head start. I add Fermaid K at 8-10 Brix drop.
 
Different yeast strains require more nutrients than others. Read up on the strain's requirements for nutrients.

If the yeast you use has a medium to high nutrient requirement, even with a kit, you should add something like Fermaid K at the proper time. Low nutrient required yeast should be OK in a kit wine without adding any extra nutrients, unless the kit specifically calls for adding extra nutrients, like many Mosti Mondiale kits do.
 
My Mosti Renaissance Amarone kit came with EC-1118. So do people commonly use other yeasts besides what the kit maker packages?
 
Not routinely. Its a risk as this is not fresh juice your talking about. Its actually highly processed which makes it harder on the yeast to finish out at the end. Thats why EC-1118 is supplied on 99% of kits. Only a few come with something different (RC-212) which is still a pretty tough yeast.



My Mosti Renaissance Amarone kit came with EC-1118. So do people commonly use other yeasts besides what the kit maker packages?
 
Yes, almost every kit I've done has come with EC-1118. The Winexpert kits I've done all came with Red Star Premier Cuvee yeast, except for maybe the Gewurtraminer. Some reference I saw somewhere made me think it was really the same yeast as EC-1118.
 
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I found another thread out here and decided to go with the BM45. That yeast guide was handy as well, and this one appears to be the effects I hope to capture.

I do like how MoreWine automatically prompts you to buy the Fermaid, etc. with the yeast. I will be pretty well stocked on good alternative yeasts through the spring now.
 
I found another thread out here and decided to go with the BM45. That yeast guide was handy as well, and this one appears to be the effects I hope to capture.

I do like how MoreWine automatically prompts you to buy the Fermaid, etc. with the yeast. I will be pretty well stocked on good alternative yeasts through the spring now.

BM45 will definitely require some added nutrient, even for a kit wine. It has a high requirement for nutrients. During primary fermentation, make sure you stir it a couple times a day to stir in some oxygen.
 
Appreciate your thoughts and experiences. This seems to be a yeast capable of some killer nuances if you can tame her. Definitely have the Fermaid and it's counterpart coming as well.

All thoughts and experiences on this yeast appreciated!
 
I used BM-45 on a Brunello last April (still bulk aging). I was pleased with the results. To prevent H2S, follow the regimen below which I found on this forum. I had a little H2S, but splash racking cured it. BM-45 is a slow starter and has very high nitrogen needs. It is also a big foamer. I recommend a primary fermenter larger than the standard 7.5 gallon bucket size. I had foam hitting the lid on my 9 gallon fermenter. Make sure you monitor and stir everyday. I actually separated the batch into two 5 gallon carboys for secondary fermentation. If I didn't, foam would have been coming out the airlock. I know E.C. Kraus carries a foam reducer, but I have never tried it and so cannot give any recommendations on it.

A Recommended Guide to Yeast Nutrient dosages:

The following is a recommended nutrient schedule based on the latest research from Lallemand. It has been conceived to ensure the maximum viability of yeast throughout the entire course of a fermentation, and it is comprised of two, separate additions: "Go Ferm", and "Fermaid-K".

-The first nutrient addition is done by adding "Go Ferm" directly into the water used to hydrate the yeast. This represents a new approach and is important because by making this first nutrient dosage outside of the must, you are able to eliminate potential problems early-on: namely the binding-up of certain nutrients by SO2 (thus making them unavailable to the yeast), and the possible, partial depletion of the nutrient addition due to the early feeding of other organisms that may have gotten into the must before the yeast have had a chance to reach the cell-density needed to begin the fermentation (again, lowering the level of nutrients ultimately available to the yeast). It is this "Go Ferm" addition, therefore, that will ensure that the yeast will receive the whole of the nutrient addition without any interference, -and this in turn translates to the start of a clean and healthy fermentation.

-However, your work is not done…As the fermentation progresses, the must becomes a more difficult place to work in for the yeast: the alcohol level starts to rise (slowly becoming more and more toxic) and all of the nutrients that were present at the beginning of the fermentation start to become depleted. "Fermaid-K" is then used at 1/3 sugar depletion (usually an 8-10 brix drop) so that the nutrients required by the yeast to maintain a healthy metabolism all the way through to the end of fermentation are available to them before they become stressed and you start to see signs of a stuck or sluggish fermentation (not to mention excessive VA and Hydrogen-Sulphide production!).

*It may be helpful to think of the following analogy: "Go Ferm" is the complete breakfast that is eaten on the morning of the 20-mile race, and "Fermaid-K" is the energy bars and sports drinks that are consumed at the mid-way point to help get you to the finish line!

Dosage- Rates:

"Go Ferm": Rate is 1.25 grams of "Go Ferm" / 1 gram of yeast / 17mls of water.
"Fermaid-K": Rate is 1 gram per 1 gallon of must.

How to Hydrate Dry Wine Yeast using "Go Ferm" (A Recommended Nutrient Regimen):

1) Using clean water (filtered or distilled is best), calculate the amount needed and heat it to 110 degrees F (43 degree C).
2) Add the required amount of "Go Ferm" to the heated water. Mix it in well so that there are no clumps, and let it stand until the temp of the mixture falls to 102 degrees F (39 degrees C).
3) Add the required amount of yeast to the mixture. Stir it to break-up any clumps and wait 15-30 minutes.
4) At this point you will want to add a portion of the must/juice into the yeast mixture that is ½ to equal the volume of the yeast starter. This helps the yeast become accustomed to the pH, TA%, brix level (sugar), and the temperature of the must they will ultimately be fermenting, and is done to avoid shocking them.
5) After a 10-15 minute wait, the yeast should now be ready introduce into the must!
6) *Once the fermentation is underway, it is highly recommended to add "Fermaid-K" at a rate of 1 gram per gallon at 1/3 sugar depletion (after an 8-10 brix drop).

Example of volumes needed:

Say you are inoculating 6 gallons of must. This would mean that you would be using:

A) 6 grams of yeast
B) 7.5 grams of "Go Ferm"
C) 100mls of water
D) 50-100mls of must/juice
E) 6 grams of "Fermaid-K" at 1/3 sugar depletion
 
Outstanding and thorough! Love it!

good to know on the foam especially! I look forward to this one.
 

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