WineXpert Petite Syrah / Zinfandel Limited Edition

[hobbyiswine]

My LHBS had the petite Sirah / Zin limited edition on the shelf yesterday so my friend snatched one up. Anyone else have one working? I am working on the WA meritage so we will end up sharing some bottles between us. The WA blend has been very user friendly. Ferment was strong and steady, it de gassed on its own and is clearing quickly. Curious if the petite Syrah / Zin will be the same. Guess we will find out!

 

[CB750]

One would expect the Petite Sirah/Zinfandel to turn out different from the Washington Maritage as the grape varites are different. Other factors would be the amount and type of Oak and type of yeast each kit contains and you generally don't find that out until you open up the kit.

I also considered the PS/Zin, but went with the WM as I also ordered the German Traminer Spatese which will come in March.

 

[Andrewwarwick]

I got 2 of each of the meritage and syrah. The meritage I cleared 10 days ago and will rack to bulk age 6 months then bottle half so I can start the second kit and have like wine for topping up. I'll bulk age the rest another 6 months. The syrah I will do the same with and can't wait to get home to start the first kit.

The meritage juice smelled soooo good and the ferment was the most active I've had yet, I cannot wait to sample it in a few days when I rack! I followed the kit instructions and added everything, I'm still too new at this to make my own adjustments yet.

 

[robie]

The P.S./Zin should be a great blend. Lots of Zin, probably most, coming from California, has some Petite Syrah in it for better color and to anchor the fruity Zin.

Does it come with a grape pack?

It might take a while for it to age to perfection, but it should be good.

 

[dbrewr]

I ordered mine on line in December 2011 and its supposed to ship in Febuary.
Still waiting.

 

[hobbyiswine]

No grape pack with either the meritage or the petite sirah/zin. I think the zin blend had two types of oak in 4 packages. The LHBS has info about the kit on their website and states that the fruit is from Amador County, CA.

 

[robie]

the fruit is from Amador County, CA.

I spent several days in Amador County last November. Very hot area, so it is definitely Zin county. The county is in the Sierra Foothills, east of Lodi, CA. Just a few miles from Placerville, CA.

 

[wineh]

I just racked this one from the primary to a carboy. Man, did it turn my primary purple! I don't think there will be any lack of color, or aroma with this kit.
It came with 60gr (2oz) of "premium oak" sawdust, and 60 gr of French oak chips. My starting SG# was lower than the instructions stated, but so was my 7 day reading, so I guess my hydrometer reads a little low. It will be at least 13.1%, and it's still bubbling.
I have never made a varietal of either, or a blend of these two, so I am really looking forward to it.

 

[hobbyiswine]

This kit went crazy in the primary. Temp started at 73 and jumped to high 70s in about two days. Transferred to secondary on day 7. Had de gassed on its own (daily stirring was putting of lots of co2) and SG was at .990! ABV finished at 13.3%. Like wineh said, great color considering it was only juice. Oak character seems pretty light at first but will see how it tastes In a few months.

 

[Javila]

I started my petite/zin about 5 days ago and it is fermenting very active and healthy at about 68 degrees in my basement. I got brave and changed the yeast from the ec-1118 to rc-212 for better color/aroma. I am extending the time line on each step, not in any hurry to get to bottling. Will be cellaring for months. So far has great potential !

 

[robie]

I started my petite/zin about 5 days ago and it is fermenting very active and healthy at about 68 degrees in my basement. I got brave and changed the yeast from the ec-1118 to rc-212 for better color/aroma. Extending the time line on each step, not in any hurry to bottling. Will be cellaring for months. So far has great potential !

Make sure you understand the nutrient needs of the rc-212. If it has a higher nutrient need that EC-1118, you will need to add some nutrient to it.

 

[Javila]

Make sure you understand the nutrient needs of the rc-212. If it has a higher nutrient need that EC-1118, you will need to add some nutrient to it.

By that do u mean it could have a stuff fermentation b4 it reaches < 1.000 ? It is presently full steam ahead fermenting right now. Should I go ahead and throw a bit of yeast nutrient?? I did read up and noticed rc-212 ferments slower than ec-1118 and likes to stay fermenting above 68 degrees. ......now u got me thinking.

 

[robie]

The speed of the fermentation is not an issue.
Specs say it is a low producer of H2S, but it has a high requirement for nutrients. I would take a look at your yeast nutrient instructions and add it when its instructions call for it. (Probably something like when 1/3 to 2/3 of the sugar is fermented out.)

Since it has a high requirement, don't assume the nutrient supplied in the kit is enough. Otherwise, with this yeast, you may not get H2S (rotten egg smell), but you could end up with a stuck fermentation.

 

[wineh]

Coincidentally, Tim Vandergrift wrote an article in Winemaker magazine called "Kit Yeast Trials" which is about substituting yeast in wine kits. It states this about the characteristics of the yeast they choose (and I quote):
"-rapid onset of fermentation
-speedy fermentation
-thorough fermentation
-flocculation
-low foaming
-the ability of the yeast to cope with pasteurized or concentrated juices"
He goes on to state:
"one side effect of the (pasteurizing) process is that it causes some sugars to bond to other compounds in the juice"
"A yeast incapable of cracking away the sugars from the acids can leave the flavor of unfermented juice which shows up as a sugary or candied taste in the finish"
While he did make some suggestions on where one might begin the selection process, that kind of talk convinced me to leave the yeast alone.

Unlike making wine from grapes or fresh juice, we don't get yeast nutrients in our kits (at least I've never had any) except bentonite, which is a clarifying agent that I understand gives yeast something to hang onto in early stages of kit fermentation.

 

[pioneergirl]

By that do u mean it could have a stuff fermentation b4 it reaches < 1.000 ? It is presently full steam ahead fermenting right now. Should I go ahead and throw a bit of yeast nutrient?? I did read up and noticed rc-212 ferments slower than ec-1118 and likes to stay fermenting above 68 degrees. ......now u got me thinking.

In reference to the yeast food......My husband bought me a book "Home winemaking step by step" by Jon Iverson. This book gives a very thorough explanation of yeasts and chemicals and testings and readings along with making wine fromg grapes, frozen musts, kits, etc. (almost too much at once).

I just put my second kit ever together and switched out to RC212 and made a starter with juice and added to the bucket and then sprinkled (I kinda forget) 1/2 tsp?? of yeast food over the top to it. (we already had food on hand due to husband beer brewing). The book did alert me that this yeast strain required adding nutrients. It only takes a small quantity. Also put a brew belt around this because it required a higher temp. This produced a vigorous fermentation for several days. It bubbled through the airlock for a complete day in the 6 gal bucket. (I did this on Saturday - today is Thursday) - the vigourous bubbles have slowed a lot. The guys here on the forum on my other thread for the kit-cab informed me that the reason the kits include the EC118 is because it is more tolerant to termperature ranges (colder end probably) in the home- easy to work with (ahhh- that made sense to)

Are you going to go ahead and just sprinkle the food over the surface then? (i am a beginner, but I would go ahead and get some food and sprinkle over the surface). Good luck - interesting disucssion - will check in. C-

 

[Javila]

swapping yeast on kits

Coincidentally, Tim Vandergrift wrote an article in Winemaker magazine called "Kit Yeast Trials" which is about substituting yeast in wine kits. It states this about the characteristics of the yeast they choose (and I quote):
"-rapid onset of fermentation
-speedy fermentation
-thorough fermentation
-flocculation
-low foaming
-the ability of the yeast to cope with pasteurized or concentrated juices"
He goes on to state:
"one side effect of the (pasteurizing) process is that it causes some sugars to bond to other compounds in the juice"
"A yeast incapable of cracking away the sugars from the acids can leave the flavor of unfermented juice which shows up as a sugary or candied taste in the finish"
While he did make some suggestions on where one might begin the selection process, that kind of talk convinced me to leave the yeast alone.

Unlike making wine from grapes or fresh juice, we don't get yeast nutrients in our kits (at least I've never had any) except bentonite, which is a clarifying agent that I understand gives yeast something to hang onto in early stages of kit fermentation.

Very good info concerning swapping yeast on kits. Juice started fermenting on the 25 and right now sg is 1.020 and still fermenting steady. I also am going by what Tim Vandergrift wrote on his magazine "Guide to Wine Kits" on page 31 under "Making your kit wine shine". Still keeping very good watch on the temp during this critical stage. Will keep u all updated. thanku

 

[robie]

I believe Tim V. also has written articles about the positives of substituting yeast. (Sorry, I am at work and can't give you a reference.)

All of us have experience with different groups of kits, but I know several Mosti Mondiale kits come with yeast nutrient packets. I can't say which, but I think some kits have DAP added to them during the manufacturing stage. I think it would be a requirement, in order to guaranty good results.

 

[wineh]

I believe Tim V. also has written articles about the positives of substituting yeast. (Sorry, I am at work and can't give you a reference.)

That article is actually one of them. It would have taken me too long to include all of the upside he mentions in this article. What really got to me was his suggestion to split the kit in half, so if your trial goes awry, you still have half a kit to enjoy. I'm just not that adventurous.

All of us have experience with different groups of kits, but I know several Mosti Mondiale kits come with yeast nutrient packets. I can't say which, but I think some kits have DAP added to them during the manufacturing stage. I think it would be a requirement, in order to guaranty good results.

I have noted that many of Mosti's kits are closer to fresh juice than kits, so I'm not surprised. I have subscribed to Winemaker for several years, and one thing I have to say is hats off to all you folks who have the time and energy to make wine from grapes or fresh juice...it seems 10 times harder than making wine from a kit.
Sorry if my previous post appeared misleading.

 

[robie]

I have noted that many of Mosti's kits are closer to fresh juice than kits, so I'm not surprised. I have subscribed to Winemaker for several years, and one thing I have to say is hats off to all you folks who have the time and energy to make wine from grapes or fresh juice...it seems 10 times harder than making wine from a kit.
Sorry if I mislead.

You are not misleading. It is harder and usually requires more experience. You also can screw up easier. It definitely requires more thinking, too. With kits, one can get by much easier without PH meters, acid tests and free SO2 tests. With fresh/frozen grapes, it is hit/miss to try to get by without them.

But what fun!

 

[dbrewr]

Made my Petite/Zin yesterday and after topping off to the six gal. mark, i took a gravity reading. It was only 1.090. i wanted it to be close to 1.100. I should have checked as i was puring the last half gal or so of water into the fermentor. Other kits I`ve done, have come out real close or right on the mark. So i added on cup of table sugar to the batch. I hope that it does`nt affect the flavor in the end. Has any one else experienced a lower than expected gravity reading?