Pruning/training Sauvignon Blanc Vines

[SteveH]

I planted several varieties this year of varying ages (1-3 year old nursery stock). The Niagara, Edelweiss, Cayuga are all pretty straight forward and easy to see where to prune and are all reaching for the wire/sky. But, the Sauvignon Blanc Vines are just bushing out and much slower to grow. I know they need leaves to strengthen the roots, so I'm reluctant to prune these and worry I may prune too much because there's not a lot there. Should I have pruned the two side shoots and nipped some of the lower leaves off to promote upward growth? Can I still do it this time of year without a negative effect on the vines?
Thanks, SteveH

 

[havlikn]

At this point of the year I would leave them alone. Come next spring, prune the vine where the shoot is about pencil size and train the new growth to a stake

 

[Johny99]

Not sure where you are, but I'm guessing you have cold winters. I found sauv b slower to get going than the other varieties I planted at the same time. My learning was if it doesn't make it to the fruiting wire, prune it back to two buds in the winter at the same time as you prune everything else. Old guy I learned from had the opinion that a stronger trunk grew this way than training a weaker one. I'd say I did that to about 50% of my sauv b the first winter. Sure is hard tho!

Pencil size may be the same effect as I'd think it would be pretty close to the fruiting wire unless it is higher than I use.

 

[SteveH]

Thanks for the responses. I am in North East Ohio, but just a few miles out of The Grand River Valley extended growing season (due to Lake Erie's Fall warming effect). One nursery said these were "in my zone" and another nursery and other research show it's actually not. I'll probably wait then for dormancy to prune and let them be for now.

 

[Johny99]

My foggy memory thinks UC Davis considers sauv blanc on its own roots as good for -5F w/o much damage. Don't take that to the bank however till I look it up. Anyway, in eastern WA it is common to prune for cordons with two trunks. Train one one way and the other th other. Thought is if you get winter kill, one trunk may have less damage than the other. Might be something to consider. I've done all my reds and Pinot blanc that way, but thankfully haven't had a killing winter (yet).

 

[SteveH]

My foggy memory thinks UC Davis considers sauv blanc on its own roots as good for -5F w/o much damage. Don't take that to the bank however till I look it up. Anyway, in eastern WA it is common to prune for cordons with two trunks. Train one one way and the other th other. Thought is if you get winter kill, one trunk may have less damage than the other. Might be something to consider. I've done all my reds and Pinot blanc that way, but thankfully haven't had a killing winter (yet).

I believe you are spot on with the -5F. With the previous 2 harsh winters (not last years, that was nice and mild!) we had extended periods 3-4 weeks of constant record lows and set an all time record of -35. days and days of well below zero and highs struggling to reach 0. Ridiculous. Many of the grand river valley wineries had 80-100% kill on the less vigorous varieties. So I am a fan of the two trunk training and have done that on all my other vines and will try to do the same on these as a little insurance.
Thanks! SteveH