Help me to understand the basic from grape to wine process.

[DaveL]

Here is my understanding of the process.

1. 1. Harvest grapes at desired Brix
   2. Crush, de-stem, wash.
   3. Add enzyme, adjust acid, add tannins, K-meta
   4. 24 hours or so later add yeast, energizer and nutrient
   5. Push down as needed to keep cap wet.
   6. Starting Sg should be 1.80? ending between 0.990and 0.994?
      Rack and press lees to get all juices, rack every 3 months or so adding 1/4 to 1/8 tsp of Kmeta per 6 gallons..
   7. Use Oak at some point if desired or barrel age if possible or desired.
   8. Cold stabilize. When in the process is this done?

 

[spaniel]

Here is my understanding of the process.

1. 1. Harvest grapes at desired Brix
   2. Crush, de-stem, wash.
   3. Add enzyme, adjust acid, add tannins, K-meta
   4. 24 hours or so later add yeast, energizer and nutrient
   5. Push down as needed to keep cap wet.
   6. Starting Sg should be 1.80? ending between 0.990and 0.994?
      Rack and press lees to get all juices, rack every 3 months or so adding 1/4 to 1/8 tsp of Kmeta per 6 gallons..
   7. Use Oak at some point if desired or barrel age if possible or desired.
   8. Cold stabilize. When in the process is this done?

1. 
   
   So the first question is, red or white? It is different. Very different. From what you provide, I'm assuming red.
   1- You may not reach desired Brix. If not, adjust with sugar.
   2- Crush, destem yes. What do you mean "wash"?
   3- Yes, generally. But if this is red grapes it is unlikely you need to add tannins.
   4- Yes, but energizer and nutrient is the same thing
   5- Push down cap 1-2 times per day
   6- Starting SG depends on your goal ABV and yeast, in part. In general, it will be 1.080 to 1.100.
   7- I would cold stabilize before oaking. This will reduce acid and help clear. Nowhere do you reference clearing agent (bentonite etc). That may be needed prior to cold stabilization.
   8- Oak is the last thing I do, when the wine is already clean. That way I rack off the oak right before bottling.
   
   Now white is totally different. You press immediately off skins/stems and ferment colder (55-60deg).

 

[DaveL]

So the first question is, red or white? It is different. Very different. From what you provide, I'm assuming red.
1- You may not reach desired Brix. If not, adjust with sugar.
2- Crush, destem yes. What do you mean "wash"?
3- Yes, generally. But if this is red grapes it is unlikely you need to add tannins.
4- Yes, but energizer and nutrient is the same thing
5- Push down cap 1-2 times per day
6- Starting SG depends on your goal ABV and yeast, in part. In general, it will be 1.080 to 1.100.
7- I would cold stabilize before oaking. This will reduce acid and help clear. Nowhere do you reference clearing agent (bentonite etc). That may be needed prior to cold stabilization.
8- Oak is the last thing I do, when the wine is already clean. That way I rack off the oak right before bottling.




Now white is totally different. You press immediately off skins/stems and ferment colder (55-60deg).

Norton Grapes, meant to delete wash (we washed the concords I handpicked this past weekend since we didn't have a crusher)
why do several fruit recipes distinguish between the two, nutrient and energizer? Fruit is all I have made from scratch.
Can you recommend a yeast for the Norton grape?
If I am going to give it time to age do I need a clearing agent? Does this have to do with SO2?
I will read up on cold stabilization tomorrow

 

[GreginND]

Are you planning to do ML fermentation on it?

 

[DaveL]

Are you planning to do ML fermentation on it?

Greg
I don't know. I've never done that. I was thinking I would. When is this done and what are the benefits/drawbacks?
Someone else suggested if I cold store the must before pitching the yeast MLF wouldn't be needed. If I understood him correctly.

 

[GreginND]

Usually we inoculate with ML bacteria near the end of primary fermentation so it starts working when you transfer to secondary. You want MLF done sooner rather than later because you can't dose it with sulfite until ML is complete. I would cold stabilize, if necessary, after it has finished ML and cleared significantly. Cold storing before fermentation will not do anything to the acids. You need the alcohol to change the solubility of potassium bitartrate.

ML fermentation converts the malic acid to lactic acid. It reduces the acidity and makes the wine smoother. Most red wines benefit from ML fermentation.

Oak can be added at different stages. Some add oak dust or chips to the primary fermentation. Oak cubes, staves or spirals can be added anytime after fermentation is done during your aging and clearing stages.

 

[JohnT]

Norton already is amazingly tannic. I would omit adding any.

I know that some who make norton swear by RC-212 yeast.

 

[manvsvine]

the process is pretty well explained in the free morewine manuals
http://morewinemaking.com/content/manuals

the way to make wine is an excellent book and its pretty cheap , it is excellent for staring out as the first half of the book teaches fundamentals . great guide for your first couple batches.

the second half of the book takes you to the next level. all you need to know to test and fine tune your wine.

a must have book for home grape winemakers , it does an excellent job of explaining things to laymen and at debunking some of the myths and bad practices of home winemaking and has its foundation in good science yet doesn't forget the art.

best 20 bucks you'll ever spend

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0520266145/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[photoactivist]

If using it, I would only add bentonite to juice, prior to pitching yeast. It tends to strip wine of some of the best characteristics.
Though I never add it to red wine. Especially if you intend a long bulk aging. You might use the old egg white fining method.