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So with wacky results I decided against adjusting the wine pre-fermentation, I put in some yeast nutrient, energizer, and some Lavlin 212, and it's bubbling away. After it's done I will likely cold stabilize then test.. hopefully things will even out, if not I can adjust or blend at that point.

So, something like this would be needed then? http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/secondary/four-product-premium-pro-series-secondary-co2-beer-regulator.html

So I've started brewing beer, I have a single kegarator now, and will be building a "keezer" which will feed 3 - 5 taps into my wall in the bar. I've figured 95% of everything out, except the best method for CO2. Is it better to have dual regulators at the tank or a single tank with...

Thanks, my thought is the same PH is more "important" .48% = astronomically high? Everything I've read says .60%-.70% is target, with .50%-.55% being a minimum? Am I'm missing something?

the reagents are the only thing I would question, they are in month 6, however, cal on the PH is pretty simple, put it into a solution and it reads it.. I mean it's a 4.01PH solution, and the probe reads 4.01, if the reagents were bad I'd get a bad reading. I've been using them for 6 months...

So I tested again, cal'd the tool.. now I have 3.01 PH, 5.2 g/L TA (2.6ml of reagent added to hit 8.2)... while 5.2g/L is on the low side I think PH is more important and need to get that up to 3.3, 3.4? thoughts, and recommendations on product to use to do so? It should be noted I brought...

Thanks.. I'm using the SC300, and following their directions. 5ml sample of wine w/ 15ml of distilled water, adding the TA reagent slowing till it hit's 8.2 Ph... take the quantity of reagent added from the dropper, *2 = TA g/L. in my case I put in 2.4 mL of reagent before it hit 8.2PH which...

Thanks all.. to answer the questions, I'm in South/Central PA, I think the "official count" from winecellarinnovations.com where I ordered it was in the ~280 bottle range, once full. I highly recommend ordering from them.. I love woodworking (not that I'm particularly good at it).. .but you...

I put it in my primary yesterday after sulfiting it.. will do primary there.. but yeah after racking into a carboy, that's what I was wondering about.. with the kits they tell you not to top off the carboys.. so sounds like the pure juice is "more sensitive".. ugh...

I built this in January, specifically for my own winemaking, we have ~100 bottle rack behind the bar, so this is pretty much just for our homemade stuff :).. Oh it was empty in Jan.. just started making wine :o

I highly recommend the spirals, I use them in most of mine, put them in at the start, so by the 6 week point the wine is done and oaked.. of course you can wait until it's ready and oak them.. it's possible, since you only did 1 gal, you "over oaked" the wine... smaller amounts of wine require...

You can raise the PH by blending, K-bicarbonate, ACIDEX/SIHADEX, water, and possibly via cold stabilization.. Of course the PH going up means the TA goes down. I'm dealing with the same problem now, but it's low PH & low TA.. you've done MLF before? it seems like a PITA to keep testing often...

So first time not making from a kit, I got juice from CA (Cab). TA = 4.8 g/L or .48% PH 3.27 ( steadied around 3.3 but kept ticking down during testing) SG 1.088 @ 61* So I need to increase the TA, and likely the PH also.. My thought: Shoot for a higher TA, which will allow me...

Thanks, I've got some other questions and will start another thread, as it could get interesting :)...

Every book I've read says adjust TA & PH pre-fermentation, it's much harder to do so after.. Not to hijack your thread, but since you are on a similar topic :)... also (I'm doing the same thing now, first time with juice, not a kit).. I got the TA measurement.. how do I convert that to a...

is your titration agent more than 6 months old? may be time to replace it? Also I don't know about boiling it, I've read (with my SC400 instructions, you use a blender before testing the TA)..

Got it!.. been reading up.. looks like: 1. Suflite today, test PH, TA, SG 2. Adjust TA (if necessary) 3. pitch yeast after ~24 hours.. 4. after ferm, rack, and pitch MLF I'm reading about headspace? up until now (kits) the carboy being filled near the top has never been an issue, do I...

Thanks, yeah this will go into my barrel (hopefully, if I timed it right with the Merlot already in there :) ) .. I thought the bentonite was to kill off any wild yeast that may be there, or is that what the sulfite does?

Stopped by my LBS to order juice, but they had it in stock already :) fresh from CA.. so I grabbed 6Gal of Cab.. Was planning on re-reading my winemaking books, but looks like I'm on an accelerated plan as there is a bucket in my kitchen as I write this.... so some quick questions.. 1...

Typically you don't oak a Pinot, F-packs are for back sweetening (for white wines like riesling).. I did this kit, it was one of the best I did.. what I did was used 2 american med/light oak toasted spirals..(I would NOT recommend any heavy oak) I put them in with the primary and cleaned them...