Recent content by whynot

So with wacky results I decided against adjusting the wine pre-fermentation, I put in some yeast nutrient, energizer, and some Lavlin 212, and it's bubbling away. After it's done I will likely cold stabilize then test.. hopefully things will even out, if not I can adjust or blend at that point.

So, something like this would be needed then? http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/secondary/four-product-premium-pro-series-secondary-co2-beer-regulator.html

So I've started brewing beer, I have a single kegarator now, and will be building a "keezer" which will feed 3 - 5 taps into my wall in the bar. I've figured 95% of everything out, except the best method for CO2. Is it better to have dual regulators at the tank or a single tank with...

Thanks, my thought is the same PH is more "important" .48% = astronomically high? Everything I've read says .60%-.70% is target, with .50%-.55% being a minimum? Am I'm missing something?

the reagents are the only thing I would question, they are in month 6, however, cal on the PH is pretty simple, put it into a solution and it reads it.. I mean it's a 4.01PH solution, and the probe reads 4.01, if the reagents were bad I'd get a bad reading. I've been using them for 6 months...

So I tested again, cal'd the tool.. now I have 3.01 PH, 5.2 g/L TA (2.6ml of reagent added to hit 8.2)... while 5.2g/L is on the low side I think PH is more important and need to get that up to 3.3, 3.4? thoughts, and recommendations on product to use to do so? It should be noted I brought...

Thanks.. I'm using the SC300, and following their directions. 5ml sample of wine w/ 15ml of distilled water, adding the TA reagent slowing till it hit's 8.2 Ph... take the quantity of reagent added from the dropper, *2 = TA g/L. in my case I put in 2.4 mL of reagent before it hit 8.2PH which...

Thanks all.. to answer the questions, I'm in South/Central PA, I think the "official count" from winecellarinnovations.com where I ordered it was in the ~280 bottle range, once full. I highly recommend ordering from them.. I love woodworking (not that I'm particularly good at it).. .but you...

I put it in my primary yesterday after sulfiting it.. will do primary there.. but yeah after racking into a carboy, that's what I was wondering about.. with the kits they tell you not to top off the carboys.. so sounds like the pure juice is "more sensitive".. ugh...

I built this in January, specifically for my own winemaking, we have ~100 bottle rack behind the bar, so this is pretty much just for our homemade stuff :).. Oh it was empty in Jan.. just started making wine :o

I highly recommend the spirals, I use them in most of mine, put them in at the start, so by the 6 week point the wine is done and oaked.. of course you can wait until it's ready and oak them.. it's possible, since you only did 1 gal, you "over oaked" the wine... smaller amounts of wine require...

You can raise the PH by blending, K-bicarbonate, ACIDEX/SIHADEX, water, and possibly via cold stabilization.. Of course the PH going up means the TA goes down. I'm dealing with the same problem now, but it's low PH & low TA.. you've done MLF before? it seems like a PITA to keep testing often...

So first time not making from a kit, I got juice from CA (Cab). TA = 4.8 g/L or .48% PH 3.27 ( steadied around 3.3 but kept ticking down during testing) SG 1.088 @ 61* So I need to increase the TA, and likely the PH also.. My thought: Shoot for a higher TA, which will allow me...

Thanks, I've got some other questions and will start another thread, as it could get interesting :)...

Every book I've read says adjust TA & PH pre-fermentation, it's much harder to do so after.. Not to hijack your thread, but since you are on a similar topic :)... also (I'm doing the same thing now, first time with juice, not a kit).. I got the TA measurement.. how do I convert that to a...