Which Yeast and MLB to use (first time making from grapes)

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Jay204

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I have done a lot of reading in the past weeks in preparation for making wine from grapes for the first time. I'm starting to panic a little bit since the grapes arrive next Friday and I still have a few questions not fully answered. As I continue doing research, I figured it might help to poll the forum and ask for help.

I'm doing Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, all from Lodi.

My first question is on yeast choice. I am leaning towards BM4x4 for all 4 varietals. Should I be choosing something like RC212 or a different yeast for any of them?

Second question is on MLF, which ties somewhat into the yeast question. Is it safer to add the MLB post fermentation as opposed to coinoculating? Especially depending on which yeast I use? Also, I see that most people are using VP41 as their MLB. Is there a specific reason this is the MLB of choice?
 
I have done a lot of reading in the past weeks in preparation for making wine from grapes for the first time. I'm starting to panic a little bit since the grapes arrive next Friday and I still have a few questions not fully answered. As I continue doing research, I figured it might help to poll the forum and ask for help.

I'm doing Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, all from Lodi.

My first question is on yeast choice. I am leaning towards BM4x4 for all 4 varietals. Should I be choosing something like RC212 or a different yeast for any of them?

Second question is on MLF, which ties somewhat into the yeast question. Is it safer to add the MLB post fermentation as opposed to coinoculating? Especially depending on which yeast I use? Also, I see that most people are using VP41 as their MLB. Is there a specific reason this is the MLB of choice?

Lots of questions, many folks will have differing opinions, I'll share mine.

As far as yeast goes, BM4x4 is a very good one for those varietals, I use it a lot, along with D254 and D80. I avoid RC212, it has some nutrient challenges and seems to be prone to producing H2S.

BM4x4 is a moderate producer of SO2 (sulfite) which can cause MLF challenges, which is one good reason to use VP41, it has good SO2 tolerance. It's also a good reason to coinoculate, it allows your MLB to get established in a low SO2, low alcohol environment, and the warmth provided by alcoholic fermentation helps speed MLF along.

I've been coinoculating for years with nothing but good results, it's my standard protocol now. Just make sure to properly feed your yeast with good nutrients like Fermaid K or O, and properly feed your MLB with a good nutrient like Opti-Malo. To ensure success, I also rehydrate my VP41 with Acti-ML according to instructions, and inoculate the must just as the first cap rises. I've never had MLF fail to complete since using this protocol and coinoculating.

Good Luck!!!!!!!
 
I would go to the Scott Labs or MoreWine site and look for their yeast recommendation charts. You can then go to the individual yeast and see what characteristics the yeasts have and does it meet your style and taste preferences. It also lets you know the nutrient, temperature and other requirements. Not the easy answer you wanted to hear I'm sure. Split the batches and use 2 different yeasts for more complexity. MLB is again a personal choice. I use MBR 31 and do not co-inoculate.
 
Thank you both for your help.

@Johnd do you coinoculate D254 and D80? They both have similar technical characteristics so I would imagine they would be suitable together. I'm now reading about D254 and it seems like it would be a better choice to avoid possible MLF issues. On wines like the Cab I really want to go with whatever yeast is likely to produce the fullest bodied wine.
 
@Johnd do you coinoculate D254 and D80?

Generally, winemakers don't coinoculate with two different yeasts. You won't know which strain actually did most of the fermenting; it is likely that one or the other may come to dominate the fermentation. Also, some yeasts are patently not compatible; some yeasts ("killer yeasts") excrete a toxin that some other (but not all) strains are sensitive to.

So, usually, people split the batch into two (or more) parts, and ferment them separately with a different yeast, then combine later.
 
Thank you both for your help.

@Johnd do you coinoculate D254 and D80? They both have similar technical characteristics so I would imagine they would be suitable together. I'm now reading about D254 and it seems like it would be a better choice to avoid possible MLF issues. On wines like the Cab I really want to go with whatever yeast is likely to produce the fullest bodied wine.

Paul hit the nail on the head (as usual!) I typically will use one yeast in a fermenter to avoid competition issues. This year, since I'll be doing a blend with a lot of cab, I'll have more than one fermenter with cab in it, so I'll use a different yeast in each one. Each yeast tends to emphasize different characteristics of the same must, and blending later will hopefully give the wine some complexity as a result.
 
I agree with @mainshipfred and look for yeast strains recommended for your varietals. I use BM4x4 for my Albarino and RC212 for Cab Franc and Syrah.

I like adding the MLB towards end of primary fermentation, when the brix is about 2 or 3 - before pressing. I believe that co-inoculating earlier puts the yeast and MPL in competition for nutrients.
I've had the best luck getting full MLF fermentation this way. You also need to keep an eye on SO2 levels and temperature.
 
Thanks guys. I think I'll plan to add the MLB towards the end of primary. Hopefully that avoids any potential risk with adding it too close to the BM4x4. (I may end up using D254 exclusively as my supplier might be out of BM4x4)

For those that use VP41 - is the Acti-Ml rehydration necessary? I can't seem to get it anywhere in Canada and my supplier says the VP41 is meant to be rehydrated with water only.

If I'm adding the MLB at the end of primary fermentation, when should I be adding Opti-Malo?
 

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