WineXpert Tweaking Eclipse LR11 Cab Sauv

[terroirdejeroir]

I just received my first Eclipse kit – Lodi Ranch 11 Cabernet Sauvignon. I previously made the Selection Estate 16L version of this kit, it has just turned a year old and is outstanding. Since this is my twelfth kit and I have made over one hundred gallons of wine including fruit wines and mead, it seems like a good time to begin doing some slight modifications to the kits. However, I really don’t want to screw this up so I thought I would lay out my plan here and get suggestions for additional tweaks as well as feedback on my approach. I also have a question or two.

The first modification I am considering is substituting Lalvin RC-212 for the EC-1118 that came with the kit. The original Selection Estate LR11 came with RC-212 and it turned out very nicely. My favorite fruit wine I have made was a blackberry using RC-212 although I have since switched my blackberry batches over to 71B-1112 to reduce the malic acid. Keller’s description of RC-212 (which I think is “borrowed” from Lalvin) says, “This yeast is traditionally used in the Burgundy region for full red wines and is a favorite of home winemakers seeking similar big reds. Naturally, it is perfect for Pinot Noir. It has good alcohol reach (14-16%) and high temperature (68-86° F.) tolerance and excellent color stability. This yeast requires high nitrogen nutrient additions to avoid the potential development of H2S.” So, would extra yeast nutrient do the trick or do I need to use Go-Ferm/Fermaid-K? When I used RC-212 before I did not add any extra yeast nutrient and had no H2S problems, but I am moving increasingly towards being kind to my yeasties.

The second modification is to omit the use of sorbate. I expect this to ferment dry (the dryer the better for me) and I will bulk age for 6-12 months depending on how many future kits I make and the available carboys. I would still add kmeta per the kit instructions and every other racking (45 days per racking) after leaving it on the supplied 90g of Hungarian oak cubes for a full 60 days.

As far as fining goes, I still plan to use the Bentonite per the kit instructions, but I am wondering whether I need to use any additional fining agents since I plan to bulk age. As a side note, this kit came with two packets of Chitosan, but no Kieselsol. Every other kit I have done has supplied both Chitosan and Kieselol. There is no mention of Kieselsol in the instructions so I assume this is not a mistake. I guess WE has determined there is no need for it. Right now I am leaning towards skipping the Chitosan, but I would welcome any feedback.

I have read that a number of posters add Gran Cru or some other tannins to the kits, but that shouldn’t be necessary for a kit with a large grape pack and two-stage oaking should it? I like the tannins and I am not afraid to age it for a good while, but I don’t think I will do this – at least not at this time. Of course, I would like to hear opinions on this as well.

Any problems with this plan? Anything else I should be considering? Thanks for taking the time to wade through this and for any feedback you may offer.

 

[robie]

My responses are in bold italics, below.

The first modification I am considering is substituting Lalvin RC-212 for the EC-1118 that came with the kit. The original Selection Estate LR11 came with RC-212 and it turned out very nicely. My favorite fruit wine I have made was a blackberry using RC-212 although I have since switched my blackberry batches over to 71B-1112 to reduce the malic acid. Keller’s description of RC-212 (which I think is “borrowed” from Lalvin) says, “This yeast is traditionally used in the Burgundy region for full red wines and is a favorite of home winemakers seeking similar big reds. Naturally, it is perfect for Pinot Noir. It has good alcohol reach (14-16%) and high temperature (68-86° F.) tolerance and excellent color stability. This yeast requires high nitrogen nutrient additions to avoid the potential development of H2S.” So, would extra yeast nutrient do the trick or do I need to use Go-Ferm/Fermaid-K? When I used RC-212 before I did not add any extra yeast nutrient and had no H2S problems, but I am moving increasingly towards being kind to my yeasties.

The kit should already have some nutrients added, but 212 will require more nutrients than EC 1118. I would add extra nutrients (Fermaid K or fermaid O) at the correct time but at about half of the recommended dose, since the kit will already contain some extra nutrients.

The second modification is to omit the use of sorbate. I expect this to ferment dry (the dryer the better for me) and I will bulk age for 6-12 months depending on how many future kits I make and the available carboys. I would still add kmeta per the kit instructions and every other racking (45 days per racking) after leaving it on the supplied 90g of Hungarian oak cubes for a full 60 days.

Sorbate does have some other stabilizing qualities besides just rendering the yeast incapable of multiplying, but they are slight, compared to KMETA. So, yes, since you are not going to sweeten, you can leave out the sorbate and avoid that bubble gum taste it introduces to the wine. Utilization of KMETA should not change from what you intend. Add oak per your own taste.

As far as fining goes, I still plan to use the Bentonite per the kit instructions, but I am wondering whether I need to use any additional fining agents since I plan to bulk age. As a side note, this kit came with two packets of Chitosan, but no Kieselsol. Every other kit I have done has supplied both Chitosan and Kieselol. There is no mention of Kieselsol in the instructions so I assume this is not a mistake. I guess WE has determined there is no need for it. Right now I am leaning towards skipping the Chitosan, but I would welcome any feedback.

If you don't use finings, it will still clear but it will take several months to do so. (The wine is actually already aging during this natural clearing process.) WE does clearing a little differently from other Kit makers, but their process works well as long as you follow it fully. It requires that most of the lees be stirred up and taken with the racking just before clearing. Sounds strange, but too few lees will adversely affect the clearing process.

You still need the bentonite during fermentation. It absorbs unwanted proteins and helps keep the yeast dispersed and off the bottom of the fermenter.

I have read that a number of posters add Gran Cru or some other tannins to the kits, but that shouldn’t be necessary for a kit with a large grape pack and two-stage oaking should it? I like the tannins and I am not afraid to age it for a good while, but I don’t think I will do this – at least not at this time. Of course, I would like to hear opinions on this as well.

I always like to add some extra tannin, because I like the tannin feel and taste results. Adding extra tannins can result in the wine needing to age longer before the tannins back off a little. If you want to drink this wine within a year I would not add extra tannin.