Which Red varietal - local vineyard

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They still make that wine and sell it for $15 at the winery. Kiona was one of the first winery's to plant 12 acres of grapes on very desolate dry hill in WA state way back in 1975 that would later be called Red Mountain. They had to put in the road, dig a well for water, and pay for the line to be run for electricity to even run the well. Great success story!

I used to drink a Lemberger out of Kiona (Yakima Valley) quite a few years ago. They used to have it at Costco and it was around $9 and now I belive they have their Cab which also used to be about $10 now it it is a lot more. The Lemberger was spicy and had hints of pepper, the first time I had it was with fresh lightly smoked Elk in a juniper berry rub. I was a good match. Sadly I have never been to the winery but I may need to do a field trip
 
Talked with my wife and we decided to order 90 lbs of Chardonel and 90 lbs of the Dornfelder. We are hoping the Dornfelder is light enough for her tastes, and if not, too bad, it's all mine!

Owner said the brix of the Chardonel was 19-20 and the Dornfelder 16 last week. He's expecting at least another 10 days and will know more after he checks this weekend.

I'm really excited because the owner is very prompt with his emails and has been sharing lot's of information. And only 20-25 minutes away, what a find. He has about 2000 vines and 30+ varieties, so I hope this is the start of a good long relationship so I get a chance to try them all.

He invited us over for a tour anytime and I expect I'll ask him more about the characteristics of the Cab Franc he has planted so I can get more comfortable with the variety before ordering next year. I'll have to save some of my lunch money so I can order two of the reds (Noiret and Cab Franc) and I have heard that the Vidal makes a nice white wine too.
 
Okay, now that I have chosen my grape varieties, what yeast would you use with a Dornfelder? I've used RC212, CLOS and BM4x4 in the past for reds, would any of these be acceptable? I was planning on doing a secondary MLF, unless someone who has experience with these grapes thinks that is ill advised. Thanks.
 
Okay, now that I have chosen my grape varieties, what yeast would you use with a Dornfelder? I've used RC212, CLOS and BM4x4 in the past for reds, would any of these be acceptable? I was planning on doing a secondary MLF, unless someone who has experience with these grapes thinks that is ill advised. Thanks.

I'd be tempted to use RC212. One of Dornfelder's grandparents is a strain of Pinot Noir, and RC212 is THE yeast for Pinot Noir. It is also a good all-around yeast for reds. I'd say you couldn't go wrong with it.
 
Paul, thanks for the recommendation. I've also been perusing a few sites including Lallemand's, and it seems RC212 and BDX are recommended. Both are also recommended for MLF, which after and email exchange with the vineyard owner was recommended by him (doing a secondary MLF).

One thing I've noticed is that the tannins and acidity of this grape are on the low side (probably why it's so drinkable early on). I have some Lallzyme EX and Opti-Red on hand to help with color extraction/retention, have some FT Rouge for sacrificial tannins and have ordered some Tannin Complex for post fermentation. If it still seems a little limp I also have some Tannin Extra Riche I can add further down the line.

What I need to do is get a hold of some dry Dornfelder so I have a basis and don't over tannin this batch. Presque Isle has an award winning one, just have to get clearance from the boss (wife) to order a few bottles for samples (would be about $45 for two bottles because the Erie area is on the other side of the world shipping wise). Actually not bad for shipping, just wish Runningwolf could send me a free sample 375ml bottle (just kidding Doug, my wife and I love the wines the PLCB let us get down here).
 
Paul, thanks for the recommendation. I've also been perusing a few sites including Lallemand's, and it seems RC212 and BDX are recommended.

Great! Would you mind sharing a link to the info you found? I have been very frustrated by the change in Lallemand's website. It used to be that you could look by grape varietal to see what yeasts were recommended. Now, as far as I know, you have to look by yeast to see what varietal it is recommended for. I would be curious, for my own purposes, to see what part of the website you got ANY pertinent info from!
 
Actually, I think I lied, not on purpose. This is what I found, then as normal I went to the Lallamand site to confirm it:

uvaferm BDX YSEO yeast from Eaton’s Begerow Product Line is a specially selected dry active yeast, which is particularly beneficial for the fermentation of red wine must and red wine mash. The special advantages of the YSEO production process include improved final fermentation, reduced formation of sulphur compounds and to some extent reduced formation of volatile acid. uvaferm BDX YSEO yeast is very suitable for spicy, deep red wines (Dornfelder, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot).

This was found in a technical paper located at:

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...r,+Cabernet+Sauvignon,+Cabernet+Franc,+Merlot).

Gotta click on the head to view the pdf, very informational.

Edit: and yes I agree, you have to go through each yeast to gather information verses the old table where it was all in one place.

Double edit: Think I'm having a JohnT type of night. Just started playing some Pink Floyd - Wish you were here...worried I am going to lapse into some of my old habits if I can find some, will start...stopping here, not a good place to go. No more wine for me. :D
 
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Just got an email from my grape supplier. Dornfelder seems to be stuck at 17 brix. From what I'm reading a final 18 brix number is not abnormal, depending on where it is grown. He's letting it go for a few more weeks since the weather has recently been quite hot and dry for the most part. After a few stray T-storms tonight it looks dry until the middle of next week.

Found this in a PSU article from 2011:

Of the reds, only Pinot Noir is a classic international variety that is suitable for cool climates, and even then it is extremely fickle and challenging to make consistently high-quality wines. However, other red varieties such Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch (Lemberger) or even Dornfelder can make interesting if not charming wines—reds that say “hug me.”

Looks like if I do a good job on this one I should get lot's of hugs! (I think the possibility of an entertaining label is very good with this one)
 
Okay, picked up the grapes last Saturday afternoon. Brix did get up to 19.5, so added a little sugar to bring SG to 1.095. He had Kmeta'd after crush that morning, so I did the Lallzyme EX thing and pitched the yeast 12 hours later (BDX). Was going nicely Sunday noonish, at least at that point a cap was forming with some sizzling as background music.

My question is, how long can I let this go before I press with my "new" Butt Bucket press? I was surprised that the SG was 1.022 tonight (@ 75*F). I'd love to make it to Friday late afternoon so I can pick up a new bucket with a spigot. The current one I have I use as the base for a lautertun, so I'm worried I won't be able to get it clean enough (grain has lots of nasty bacteria to spoil beer/wine that comes in contact with it).

BTW, I don't need the extra time to extract any more color from the skins since they look like little gray toupees (and the wine has an intense purple hue). Guess I could take a chance on the lautertun bucket after liberally soaking in some foamy Starsan?

Any suggestions or comments are welcome.
 
I press pretty close to 1.000.

If you were at 1.022 last night, it'll probably slow down a bit and easily get you to Friday afternoon.
 
I press pretty close to 1.000.

If you were at 1.022 last night, it'll probably slow down a bit and easily get you to Friday afternoon.

Thanks Jim. I was hoping that was the case. I figured if a cap is still being formed there is enough positive CO2 pressure to blanket it in the Brute. I'm really concerned about getting nasties out of a bucket with a spigot that I've used for over 5 years as a lautering device. Rather buy a new one and label it "for winemaking only", just like I do for my fish tank buckets that I have to rebuy because they get used for cleaning the kitchen floor.
 
As long as you have a cap and it smells clean, no off odors your generally pretty safe. If you have no cap, you need to press.

I still have a cap, but it's 2 to 3 inches thick verses 8 to 10 the other day. So the fermentation train is slowing down. My SG is 1.004 adjusted (1.003 @ 72*F), so I guess I have no choice but to press tomorrow evening and hope the cap keeps up until then. Couldn't get to LHBS today since I had an activity bus pickup of the oldest after work and an after practice pickup of another, with wifey at algebra class, plus two meals for the late arrivals, ah, gotta love the new school year.

No off smells at this point. The sample I took for the SG reading smelled like fruity young wine to me, alcohol very prevalent.
 
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Still had a cap that fully reformed a minute after punching down this morning, so I'm pretty sure I'll be fine if I do the pressing tonight. Just have to wait for my daughter to call to be picked up after her away Field Hockey game. Hoping it is earlier in the evening verses later.

Picked up a "bottling bucket" that my drilled chilean bucket fit into nicely, plus a very large brewing bag (much larger than the paint strainer bags I've been using). Should be ready to go, now I just have to "hire" one of the kids to sit on the top bucket. I think I may be a little too heavy for it.

Had a sample last night. The finish is smooth enough that I'm worried MLF might make it taste flabby. So I purchased some new solution to test TA tonight and see where it stands.
 
Finally got home. Started making dinner for my daughter and I. She texted that she'd be at the school in 15 minutes (lot's of warning) and I had to take the burgers off the grill and finish when I got back.

Did start to actually move wine into the bucket press around 7:30 pm. Was pretty much done (not cleaned up) by 8:30 pm. Had almost 6 gallons of free run wine. Was rather amazed at the quantity. Pressed out about 2 gallons more, I think (hard to tell, but the 7.9 gallon fermenter got really close to overflowing and I started to siphon to another carboy).

Threw a couple of cases of beer bottles on top to start the press. Eventually used my upper body, once pretty much done closed and turned the spigot up and sat on the buckets to extract the rest. Pulled the bag out twice and loosened the pumice, then put three bungs under the bag and got a decent amount out.

Only mess up was not realizing where my level was and overflowed the lower bucket. Probably lost a quart or so. I'll have a stain on my garage floor that will make me chuckle every time I see it.

Almost forgot, the SG was down to 0.994, but I still had a nice cap on it before I started.

9-17-15_bucket-1.jpg

9-17-15_bucket-2.jpg

9-17-15_bucket-3.jpg
 
Nicely done!

I'm pretty... ummm, creative when it comes to using what I have lying around to do the job, but even I'd hesitate to put two cases of beer bottles that high up on a surface that wasn't completely stable. Glad it worked out.
 
Craig that's great, I have to press my first time grapes tomorrow and wasn't sure how I was going to approach it without a press. I have three billion buckets lying around, now I know how I will do it. Time to get the drill out. Thanks
 
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