Buon Vino filtration system -- best practices

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Patti S

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Hi, I recently purchased a Buon Vino mini jet. Only used it once to filter out a chardonnay to which I added some peaches. I had racked it 2 or 3 times, so I used the #2 filter. I don't know if I didn't tighten it up enough or if the wine had too much sediment for the #2 filter, but I had a lot more wine going into the overflow than I expected. They advise to hand tighten the filters and not use tools, but maybe I was too timid with my tighten? Looking for some experienced feedback before I try this again. Thanks!
 
In operation it seems that there isn’t enough strength in the stainless top plate (probably 8 gauge metal) which should create a flat push surface. My answer for the leakage was to cut a U channel to fit between the two bolts and C clamp the center on the stainless press plate such that it is flatter . With a work pilot plant filter press I have cast iron plates pressing both sides of the pads. ,,, I will hunt out a photo of the set up to let you visualize it.

The manufacturer was at winemaker magazine 2019 at which time I asked them about making a stronger stainless plate (ribbed), their response was don’t do this to your machine and more strength isn’t needed.

I basically don’t use a filter unless I am making a contest grade polished wine. And basically only use the number one pad.
 
They have an article on their website "Clear it up" where it is stated:

"Filter systems will typically leak about 5% of the wine being filtered. For a six-gallon batch this amounts to about 4 cups (1 liter). If you are getting significantly more leakage than this there may be something wrong. It may be that the plate assembly is not properly aligned or is not assembled correctly. The pads might be too fine, or simply plugged."

The leakage I get is much less than that. Last time there were some leakage on the first 23 liters batch but I did a second run with another 23 liters kit using the same pads (no 2) and there basically no leakage at all. I pre-soak them in an acid solution just like @salcoco wrote.
 
make sure you pre-soak the filter in a acid solution may not be saturated enough . if you can tighten it more might help .
What kind of acid specifically? I presoaked them, but not for long and just in plain water. This may be part of my problem....
 
They have an article on their website "Clear it up" where it is stated:

"Filter systems will typically leak about 5% of the wine being filtered. For a six-gallon batch this amounts to about 4 cups (1 liter). If you are getting significantly more leakage than this there may be something wrong. It may be that the plate assembly is not properly aligned or is not assembled correctly. The pads might be too fine, or simply plugged."

The leakage I get is much less than that. Last time there were some leakage on the first 23 liters batch but I did a second run with another 23 liters kit using the same pads (no 2) and there basically no leakage at all. I pre-soak them in an acid solution just like @salcoco wrote.
Thanks! I didn't think my wine was such that it would "plug up" the filter but that might be part of it too. I appreciate your reply!
 
In operation it seems that there isn’t enough strength in the stainless top plate (probably 8 gauge metal) which should create a flat push surface. My answer for the leakage was to cut a U channel to fit between the two bolts and C clamp the center on the stainless press plate such that it is flatter . With a work pilot plant filter press I have cast iron plates pressing both sides of the pads. ,,, I will hunt out a photo of the set up to let you visualize it.

The manufacturer was at winemaker magazine 2019 at which time I asked them about making a stronger stainless plate (ribbed), their response was don’t do this to your machine and more strength isn’t needed.

I basically don’t use a filter unless I am making a contest grade polished wine. And basically only use the number one pad.
So based on the info you are providing, I may be being a little too timid with my tightening on the bolds. If you are applying that extra pressure, mine probably wasn't tight enough.

Thanks so much for the reply and the information! I love this forum! :)
 
One other thing to consider is the orientation of the pads. They are designed to flow with the rough side toward the incoming wine. The filters clog WAY more easily if you don’t have them oriented correctly. Clogging causes pressure that will seek the path of least resistance. Might be part of your leaking...
 
What kind of acid specifically?
Citric acid. From same article:

Soak your pads in a solution of one quart (one liter) of cold water with an eighth of a teaspoon (0 .75 gram) of metabisulfite and one teaspoon (3.5 g) of citric acid dissolved into it

You can find it here
 
One other thing to consider is the orientation of the pads. They are designed to flow with the rough side toward the incoming wine. The filters clog WAY more easily if you don’t have them oriented correctly. Clogging causes pressure that will seek the path of least resistance. Might be part of your leaking...
Yes, I don't think that was the problem. They make it pretty easy to see if they are on in the wrong direction by making them seem crooked if you put them on wrong. That is helpful.
 
Citric acid. From same article:

Soak your pads in a solution of one quart (one liter) of cold water with an eighth of a teaspoon (0 .75 gram) of metabisulfite and one teaspoon (3.5 g) of citric acid dissolved into it

You can find it here
I did read that, but then I watched two YouTube videos, one by the CEO of Buon Vino, and they say cold water. I didn't have citric acid at the time, so when I noticed the conflict in info, I decided at the time that cold water appeared to be enough. As always, living and learning... thanks!
 
The Minijet manual also mention the use of citric acid under "Filter set-up" but yeah, I too noticed that he said cold water in the video on youtube.

I hope you will sort this out.
 
an impression= the pressure plate is not strong enough to snug the center of the pad, putting more pressure on the bolt would cause more bowing and worse leakage. (one of the kids got married will have photo Wednesday)
@Swedeman using the pilot plant press I would be POed with that much leakage. That said the construction pushes in the retention plate uniformly, and I can snug up a point which leaks.
So based on the info you are providing, I may be being a little too timid with my tightening on the bolds. If you are applying that extra pressure, mine probably wasn't tight enough.
 
Your pads should be soaked before you install them, and clean water is just fine if you so choose. If you’d like to sanitize your pads and / or the whole filter system, use your sulfite cleaning solution, with or without acid, however you make it. As long as you saturate the pads prior to trying to run wine, you’re on path.

The poorer your filter pad alignment, the poorer job of saturating, the looser the tightening job, the less clear the wine, the more you use pads out of sequence, the longer the pads are pushed past full, and the more you miss the switchover from water to wine as you start filtering, the more wine you’ll lose.

If your wine isn’t clear, that’s not what filtering is for, that’s what clearing / fining / time is for. Even with clear wine, make sure to start with the coarse filters and work your way down to the desired level of filtration. All that said, done properly, you will lose wine through the filtering process, period. The more you run, the lower the loss as a percentage, but if you’re doing little batches, it’ll eat ‘em up. Wine filtering is a big, but not contentious debate, more of a personal preference. If you need to do it, then do it. If not, let your inner procrastinator take over the winemaking, let it sit.
 
One comment additional to what has already been said. I, to, have had more leakage than I care to accept. I took the C-clamp approach. It worked well but as you tighten the C-clamp, you must also go back and tighten all of the other bolts/nuts. One potential source of leakage could be non uniform tightness around the filter plate. This goes back to the comment that the wine (or any liquid for that matter) is going to take the oath of least resistance.
Hope this post was not repetitive or two Elementary.
 
My local dealer sells only loose unpackaged filter pads which I believe are not Buon Vino brand. I find they leak a lot more , sometimes more than a litre. I now buy Buon Vino pads in another town. Travel restrictions have just lifted and now I can replenish my supply.
 
What John notes is part of my rational on primarily filtering contest material. Also I schedule several carboy batches with one set of pads. The sequence is like scheduling ice cream, I start with a light flavor, pushing the void volume with sanitizer out as a separate canning jar which is tossed, finish the first flavor first followed by the next most intense flavor, then the next flavor etc. ,,,, ie no break down and cleaning with that days scheduled work.
, you will lose wine through the filtering process, period. The more you run, the lower the loss as a percentage, but if you’re doing little batches, it’ll eat ‘em up. , , , If not, let your inner procrastinator take over the winemaking, let it sit.
I will filter basically clean wine only, time lets lots of gunk settle, but a contest judge reacts better if it sparkles.
I only run #1 pads, the wine is already basically clean.
I also have a CLR cartridge filter and Vinbrite (no pump filter), Bon Vino works best.
 
w_0211.JPG
setup with 'C' clamp & metal bar;
source carboy is 30cm above table ->
pump is sucking out of carboy ->
filtrate goes to five gallon cubitainer sitting on milk crate/ leakage goes to canning jar and will be recycled to filter
 
I filter every batch of wine I make - just because I want to.
I have never used anything but the #2 filters.
I fill a large stainless steel bowl with tap water (about a gallon and a quarter to a gallon and a half). I add 3 or 4 tablespoons of citric acid to it and dissolve. I think the Buon Vino instructions says how much.
The manufacturer says to never use Potassium Metabisulfite/Kmeta. It's not good for the pads.
I drop the 3 filter pads in and start a 15 minute timer. I can tell a difference in the leakage if I only soak them 10 minutes. It doesn't hurt to reposition/stir the pads around once or twice. Soak time seems to make a big difference in leakage. The longer they soak, the softer they get and the better they crush down and seal.
I insert the filter pads in the proper orientation, then tighten the knobs down until they are just barely snug. Then I give one 2 twists, then the other 2 twists (not full turns) - until they are as tight as I can get them by hand. (I'm trying to prevent tightening one side too much more than the other.)
I then pump the citric acid solution from the bowl through the pump/filters and check for leaks. This also flushes the system. I then drain the tubes and filter the wine. What little citric acid gets in the wine doesn't affect the wine - but you can direct the outlet line elsewhere until it runs a clean wine stream..
I usually transfer from the primary fermenter to the secondary fermenter (carboy) when SG drops below 1.020, but before 1.010. I can guess what day that will be, so I don't stir the wine the day before - so when I transfer, I leave much of the sediment behind - but it's not that critical at this time.
After fermentation is complete, I rack and then degas, stabilize and clear - leaving as much sediment behind as possible.
After about a month, I rack off the sediment - carrying over very little sediment.
That's all the rating I do before filtering - which may be a couple weeks later - or a couple months.
I've never plugged filters.
I do not drop the "pick up" tube to the bottom of the carboy until late in the filtering. I'll insert it about 3/4 of the way down. When the level reaches that point, I'll slowly work it down as it filters. At the end, I'll push it to the bottom and tilt the carboy to get all the wine possible. I run out of wine before any sediment clogs the filters.
 
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