Brew Belt Qustions

[moesagoodboy]

I use a thermowell, temperature controlller, and a fermwrap heater. Setting a temperature of say 73 degrees produces a surface temperature of 73 degrees (as measured by plastic temperature strips) and 73 degrees in the center of the liquid (as measured by the thermowell measured by the controller. I like the system but the fermwrap heater curls when not in use and you have to use tape to secure it. The picture is from Midwest Supplies. Its OK to use on both plastic and glass. As a side note, the first thermowell stainless tube that Midwest sent me leaked, so if you buy one, test it before using.

Joe

 

[sour_grapes]

Okay, fair 'nuff.

 

[GeoS]

Unfortunately, my phone will not allow me to put the dot above the q

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[GeoS]

You are using the key component, a temp controller. Most people just buy the brew belt and plug it in because it's cheaper. This system does not regulate temp so I do NOT recommend using it contrary to it's instructions.

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[mikefrommichigan]

I have several brew belts and I like the idea of adding a temperature controller to control the temperature more accurately. I may also purchase a fermwrap heater to give a more even heat coverage.

Does anyone know if it is possible/advisable to use more than 1 brew belt or fermwrap heater with a temperature controller?

 

[GeoS]

Not sure what an additional brew belt will get you besides getting to temp quicker if you are using a temp controller. Unless your using it in a cold room. If you look at the equations posted above you sent that as you raise energy (q) by adding the second brew belt what it does is raise the difference in temperature. If your room is say 70 F and one brew belt raises the temp by 10F then you get 80F. If you set the temp controller for 75F it will turn the brew belt on and off to maintain 75F. If you based a second brew belt you get 90F but the temp controller still turns it on and off to keep the temp at 75F.

On the other hand if your room is 60F and you have one brew belt you get 70F so your temp controller will not shut off. It will never reach a setting of 75F. If you use two brew belts you get 80F and your temp controller will turn on and off to regulate the temp at 75F.

I would say check your room temp and the brew belts temp difference (delta T) and size them from their. Just make sure your temp controller can handle the current in the two brew belts.

Current (I) in amps = Power (P) in watts / Volts (V)

Where volts is typically 120 vac at the outlet in your house.
If you have 2 brew belts just add the two currents together.

I1 + I2 + I3........ +In

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[GeoS]

Also, I forgot to mention do NOT lay the brew belts on top of each other. They should not be allowed to touch each other and should be spaced at even intervals from each other. A ferm wrap typically takes up most of the buckets surface area so using two where they cannot touch each other is not really possible.

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[mikefrommichigan]

Sorry. I did not make my self clear. I want to ferment several different wines at a time, so attach a brew belt to each bucket.

 

[cmason1957]

What is the temp down in your basement? The reason I ask, is you may need nothing and it will work quite fine. I have fermented about 30 gallons down in my basement this winter. The temp in my basement is about 63 def F. It might be just a bit slower, but bit, I am talking adding a day or two. Also, for many wines, cooler will give you a much fruitier wine. I would suggest you check the yeasts you will be using and the lower end of the temp range and see if you really do need anything.

Oh and I don't worry about temp for getting rid of CO2, time is your friend for that.

 

[sour_grapes]

Sorry. I did not make my self clear. I want to ferment several different wines at a time, so attach a brew belt to each bucket.

No, you really don't want to control a feedback loop using an input that is NOT in the loop! You could hope that both vessels behave the same, but I don't think it is worth it.

 

[moesagoodboy]

You can use multiple belts on one controller but...

You can use multiple belts on one controller but with only one bucket will provide feedback. Right now in my basement I have one bucket Dragon's Blood and one bucket Skeeter Pee. The thermowell is in the Dragon's Blood because it is the quicker fermentor. It's holding at a steady 74 degrees. The Pee is at 72 degrees.

When I first started fermentation the thermowell was in the Pee with the temperature set at 74. The Pee wouldn't start but the Dragon's blood took off getting up to 78 to 80 degrees. At that point I switched the thermowell to the Dragon's Blood.

If you go with two fermentations on one controller make sure you use temperature strips on each bucket.

Joe

 

[GeoS]

Remember, brew belts are designed to be used without a controller. Check the temp rise they specify and just monitor the bucket temp with a temp strip.

With both buckets in the same room, same room temp, the difference will be the actual wattage of the heater. If both are the same you should be fine using one controller.

Just monitor the bucket temperatures with a temp strip like moose suggested. Again, all conditions should be equal. Same volume and n each bucket, same wattage heater, etc....

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[mikefrommichigan]

My basement is 64 degrees, and as this is only my second wine kit I wanted to get it into the suggested fermentation range 70 -75, and possible start a 3rd and 4th kit soon at the same time. As you say, slightly cooler temps may just take a day or 2 longer.
Lots more to learn.

Thanks

 

[JetJockey]

Mike,
The fermentation temperature affects more than fermentation speed. It also changes the character slightly, i.e. the fruitiness or dryness. I use Lalvin EC-1118 yeast a lot. According to Lalvin's FAQ page:

How does changing the fermentation temperature change the “dry” or “fruity” character of my wine?

At warm fermentation temperatures, more esters and higher alcohols are produced than at colder temperatures, resulting in more fruity, floral flavors.​

On the Dragon Blood forum, it has also been noted that the fruitiness changes with fermentation temperature.

 

[mikefrommichigan]

My basement room where I am making the wine is approx 64 deg. I used the brew belt for the first 24 hours to bring the wine up a few degrees. I wanted the room a little bit warmer so I found a small heater that I can control to boost the room temperature a few degrees. I attached the a temp strip to the buckets, as well as a thermostat in the room. It seems to be working out so far.

 

[GeoS]

Mike,
The fermentation temperature affects more than fermentation speed. It also changes the character slightly, i.e. the fruitiness or dryness. I use Lalvin EC-1118 yeast a lot. According to Lalvin's FAQ page:

How does changing the fermentation temperature change the “dry” or “fruity” character of my wine?

At warm fermentation temperatures, more esters and higher alcohols are produced than at colder temperatures, resulting in more fruity, floral flavors.​

On the Dragon Blood forum, it has also been noted that the fruitiness changes with fermentation temperature.

Thanks Jet, I knew they type of yeast would change the flavors but I didn't realize the temp of fermentation would also. Always something to learn.

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[WineYooper]

I do some fermenting in the basement as well where it is about 60 in the winter and use a brew belt on my 7.9 gal primary. I have to wrap the primary with a towel over the brew belt for insulation and also put one on top just to be able to get the temp up above 70. Once ferment starts and the temp gets around 80 I unplug and then monitor the temp and plug back in when it starts to drop back close to 70, usually when it is approaching 1.010. I have been doing this for a few years now and have not had any issue with belt failure or poor wine quality. The key for me is monitoring the must temp and stirring twice a day and pushing the fruit down.

 

[derunner]

My old thread got revived with a lot of interesting discussion.

My basement is 60F and I noticed tonight that my must was dropping in temperature with just one brew belt. I just pitched the yeast so it is not generating any heat yet. I added a second brew belt so it will be interesting what it stabilizes at.

Has anyone noticed how much the temperature of 6 gals of must is raised by 1 brew belt? I have not insulated my primary at all. Is one belt equal to a 10 degree temperature difference from room temperature?

I plan to start 16 gals in a 20 gal brute next week. I'm guessing I will need to use 3-4 belts with this much must and a 60F room.

 

[GeoS]

I would use 3 or 4 brew belts. Think of it like boiling water. A low heat and a high heat will both boil water, however, the high heat will do it sooner. Also, a too low heat and the water will not boil, that's because the heat energy put in is transfered to the air. You need to put enough heat in to change the water temp and heat the air. And yes, you can insulate the system by putting towels around it, however, I still do not recommend that unless you are using a temp regulator and the brew belt instructions allow it. I would be concerned about the surface temp of the brew belts. Besides, my brew belt clearly stated Do NOT insulate.

And a bigger pot of water needs more heat to boil.

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[Runningwolf]

First off is this a white or red wine. If it's a white I wouldn't be using any additional heat. If it's a red I personally would never go over one heat belt. Of course you're going to have a large temperature swing during fermentation's (I am assuming you're fermenting). As your fermentation is slowing down the temperature drops. If you're just aging reds, again I would fore go the heat belt. This is just my personal opinion and what I do at home. My basement is the same temp as your's and even though I rarely use my belts at all anymore I still would recommend one for starting a fermentation in cold conditions..