adding yeast after fermentation

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Marshall

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I have a mead that has been fermenting with 71b-1122 for 3 weeks and is slowing down. Can I add some more honey and ec-1118 to increase ABV? If so, how much honey and yeast?
 
Not much point in adding more yeast....... you'd have to let it finish and treat it as a stuck ferment.

If you know the start gravity, and then measure it now, you know the drop. You can step feed some honey, but in small amounts relative to the batch size, measuring after the addition, so the total amount of gravity can drop the amount needed to reach the amount needed for the tolerance of the yeast.

Off the top of my head, for 14% ABV, you'd need something like a 110 point drop for 14%.
 
Not much point in adding more yeast....... you'd have to let it finish and treat it as a stuck ferment.

If you know the start gravity, and then measure it now, you know the drop. You can step feed some honey, but in small amounts relative to the batch size, measuring after the addition, so the total amount of gravity can drop the amount needed to reach the amount needed for the tolerance of the yeast.

Off the top of my head, for 14% ABV, you'd need something like a 110 point drop for 14%.
As I'm new, maybe I should let this batch go and use the ec-1118 next time. It has now stopped bubbling.
 
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Don't worry about being new etc, that's the whole point IMO, of forums like this.

You can still boost the gravity/alcohol content, its not too late for that.

As before, its starting, minus current gravity, to get the drop at the moment (and don't forget, the absence of bubbles doesn't mean that there's nothing going on in the brew). Say for example, you started it at 1.100 and its currently at 1.010, then the 90 point drop would be something like 11% or so (would need to look it up to check accuracy of that guesstimate). Hence you could probably stir in as much as a further half pound of honey per gallon, though I'd probably go with a quarter pound per gallon.

You'd then take a gravity reading and let it finish. The finish is confirmed by 3 consecutive, identical readings taken across a week, any movement confirms continuing fermentation.

Once its finished, rack it off the sediment, and stabilise with sulphite (powdered or campden tablets) and sorbate.

Then you're free to back sweeten or whatever else you have in mind to get Ootherwise ready for aging and/or bottling.
 
Don't worry about being new etc, that's the whole point IMO, of forums like this.

You can still boost the gravity/alcohol content, its not too late for that.

As before, its starting, minus current gravity, to get the drop at the moment (and don't forget, the absence of bubbles doesn't mean that there's nothing going on in the brew). Say for example, you started it at 1.100 and its currently at 1.010, then the 90 point drop would be something like 11% or so (would need to look it up to check accuracy of that guesstimate). Hence you could probably stir in as much as a further half pound of honey per gallon, though I'd probably go with a quarter pound per gallon.

You'd then take a gravity reading and let it finish. The finish is confirmed by 3 consecutive, identical readings taken across a week, any movement confirms continuing fermentation.

Once its finished, rack it off the sediment, and stabilise with sulphite (powdered or campden tablets) and sorbate.

Then you're free to back sweeten or whatever else you have in mind to get Ootherwise ready for aging and/or bottling.
Thank you for explaining. Assuming after testing it is finished fermenting and I wanted to boost ABV, when I add 1/4lb of honey would I also add yeast and/or nutrient? I have and understand campden tabs. What is the purpose of sorbate?





9
 
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Thank you for explaining. Assuming after testing it is at 11% and has stopped fermenting, when I add 1/4 lb of honey do I need to add more yeast and/or nutrient? I have some campden tabs, Are they for stopping fermentation when it's time? What is the purpose of sorbate?
Just add the honey, stir it in gently, or stir gently first then add honey and stir gently (second suggestion is for if you use a carboy type fermenter as you don't want an eruption with escaping gas/bubbles). Nutrients ? only if you have fermaidO (as different from fermaidk). Or just boil a teaspoon of bread yeast in 100mls of water for a couple of minutes then cool before adding as that also makes a handy, organic nutrient supplement.

The existing yeast will still be alive, so you shouldn't need more.

Campden tablets a.k.a. sulphite is an anti-oxident, that also stuns the yeast, so not yet. Sorbate prevents the reproducing, so again, not yet.

Once you're happy the ferment has finished to your requirements, then its a case of racking off the sediment, into another fermenter (or into a sanitised bucket while you clean and sanitise the same one) then siphon the brew onto 1 crushed campden tablet per gallon. You can then add sorbate as per the instruction. I like to sulphite then add the sorbate the next day but you can do one straight after the other if more convenient. You need to reduce any head space for aging/clearing. Water, other similar meads, wine, vodka, sanitised marbles/glass chips, CO2/nitrogen gases etc can all be used. Each has pro's and con's, so it would be best to search for topping up info either here or other sites/forums and decide which method you prefer.
 
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Just add the honey, stir it in gently, or stir gently first then add honey and stir gently (second suggestion is for if you use a carboy type fermenter as you don't want an eruption with escaping gas/bubbles). Nutrients ? only if you have fermaidO (as different from fermaidk). Or just boil a teaspoon of bread yeast in 100mls of water for a couple of minutes then cool before adding as that also makes a handy, organic nutrient supplement.

The existing yeast will still be alive, so you shouldn't need more.

Campden tablets a.k.a. sulphite is an anti-oxident, that also stuns the yeast, so not yet. Sorbate prevents the reproducing, so again, not yet.

Once you're happy the ferment has finished to your requirements, then its a case of racking off the sediment, into another fermenter (or into a sanitised bucket while you clean and sanitise the same one) then siphon the brew onto 1 crushed campden tablet per gallon. You can then add sorbate as per the instruction. I like to sulphite then add the sorbate the next day but you can do one straight after the other if more convenient. You need to reduce any head space for aging/clearing. Water, other similar meads, wine, vodka, sanitised marbles/glass chips, CO2/nitrogen gases etc can all be used. Each has pro's and con's, so it would be best to search for topping up info either here or other sites/forums and decide which method you prefer.
That was just the info I needed, thank you.
 

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