Setting up trellises

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The strainers are pretty easy to install and seem to be doing the trick. I got the strainrite xt1's cause they easily went on the wires I already had up. Anyway, a couple more questions regarding training:
Regarding TWC training, most books/online articles and pictures seem to show two main stems originating near the base of the vine. What is the main benefit to doing it this way vs training one stem that splits into two canes at the top wire? Greater production or just a preference?
Regarding MWC training, what is the ideal height to have the fruiting wire? (I realize this probably depends on many factors, but again, I keep reading different things (40", 48"...).

Any other tips or preferences/techniques you prefer is also a great help!!!
 
Regarding TWC training, most books/online articles and pictures seem to show two main stems originating near the base of the vine. What is the main benefit to doing it this way vs training one stem that splits into two canes at the top wire?

Two trunks are sometimes used in areas where harsh winters temps may kill a vine trunk. So if one dies, you do not loose a full crop on that vine, only half a crop while you train a new second trunk. However, also see this:

http://midwestwinepress.com/2012/11/03/overuse-of-multiple-trunks/
 
What is the main benefit to doing it this way vs training one stem that splits into two canes at the top wire? Greater production or just a preference?

I started off all my vines (hybrids and american) as double trunks and have begun pruning some back to single trunks in recent years. A common issue has been that some varietals are much more susceptible to crown gall than others. Those I leave as double trunks. Generally I've found that double trunks leads to double the spring/summer pruning work of unwanted growth off the trunk and head that lead to shading and spray penetration trouble.

So my advice is to double trunk what you need to for the risks you face but single trunk otherwise.

Regarding MWC training, what is the ideal height to have the fruiting wire? (I realize this probably depends on many factors, but again, I keep reading different things (40", 48"...).

Seems like your limiting factors are that it should be high enough to mitigate spring frost risk and low enough so you can shoot position / manage the canopy along your catch / high wire.
 
What is generally high enough to mitigate frost? MWC is basically VSP except the fruiting wire is 10-12" higher right?
 
I had serious frost damage this spring from the ground up to about 18". Smoked some layered vines that had just started to pop buds. No damage above 30" where I have my training wire. Nearly all my vines are TWC and a hard freeze/frost will get them too.

My understanding is that the MWC design utilizes aspects of VSP to support the (semi-) upright growth habit of your vines while also allowing for them to be trained down over the top wire to de-vigorate the shoots. Otherwise it would be just a higher set VSP. Depending how much work you want to put into it, you could put two wires on the top to tuck the shoots inside of.

Double A's recommendation is 54" to the midwire and 12" more to the high wire. I suspect there is a large window you can work with there.
https://doubleavineyards.com/Images/MidWireCordon.pdf
 
Is there any reason why I shouldn't grow my vines taller than what is recommended, other than the fact that they will be more work to prune? I am just about done setting up my trellises, and I used 10ft posts, planning on cutting off the tops when Im done. Now I'm thinking that I'll leave them tall so I have the option. The main reason is because the taller they are the more late day sun they'll get. Also, it is a small backyard vineyard, so if it helped increase production then Id consider it. Right now I have the fruiting wire on my VSP at 36", TWC at around 72' and MWC at around 48".
 
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