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Using CO2 to deal with H2S

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KAndr97

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So I'm making some Strawberry wine with 71b and I've ended up with some H2S. It's very noticeable, albeit a lot better with a splashy racking. I'm sure that I can fix it with a few more of these, but I'm also sure that I'll oxidize the heck out of my wine in doing this.
Would it be possible to do this in a Carbon Dioxide laden environment in order to avoid oxidation? I've been considering bubbling CO2 through the wine using dry ice, an empty (and sanitized) plastic bottle, and some tubing. Afterwards, I'd degass the wine thoroughly to remove any dissolved CO2. However, will the CO2 even carry away the H2S? Or will I just be wasting my time? As far as cost or time consumed, I'm not too concerned. Playing with dry ice is an excuse in and of itself :h
 

Stressbaby

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Not sure about this but as H2S results from a reductive process, wouldn't you need oxygen for splash racking to work?

I'd try Reduless.
 

stickman

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The CO2 will remove the H2S if you use enough of it, but if there are lees present still producing H2S, then the problem comes back. Sparging wine with inert gas will strip volatile compounds including aromatics, so use only what is needed.
 

4score

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To quote @NorCal, "My protocol for ridding a case of H2S is to try a few attempts with redulees and if that doesn't work, it is time to hit it with a sledge hammer: pure copper sulfate. This has cured some wine that went on to wine Gold. If you look at the ingredients in redulees it has very small dose of copper. However, it is very important to only add enough copper sulfate to resolve the issue, and no more. You want the copper to precipitate out and not leave any suspended in solution, which is why you should never drop copper pipes, coins, filters etc in your wine."

We've had very good results from careful usage of Copper Sulfate. Reduleeshelped but didn't cure. Copper Sulfate cured.
 

Countrygent

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My local U-vin wine shop sold me some Kupzit, which is copper citrate, to deal with the dreaded H2S ... worked like a charm for me. Was told to stir vigorously (as in degassing) when adding it, then get the wine racked off the lees promptly the next day even in mid-primary ferment. Fermentation started right back up. If less than 1/2 way through fermentation some Fermaid might be added to help prevent more H2S being produced. If later in the fermentation cycle, I was told not it is not recommended to add nutrients. But get at the H2S ASAP.
 

KAndr97

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Thanks for the help. It's amazing that I couldn't find anything that I needed locally. My local brewing supply store didn't have anything to help me at all. I thought maybe since they're a combo brewing/hydroponics store they might have some copper sulfate or even copper citrate. I even checked the garden section at a couple hardware stores to no avail. Eventually, I caved in and resigned myself to the delayed gratification of online shopping. I'll be sure to update y'all when I apply it.
I feel it important to mention that my fermentation was completed two days before my OP went up. I think the reasons for my H2S problem are twofold. First, I used only DAP, no energizer. I didn't feel like spending the money. Now I've ended up buying energizer AND reduless to boot. Lesson learned - just do it right the first time. Second I timed my transfer to secondary based on SG and didn't trust my gut. There was still a good head of foam going and it was still bubbling and fizzing away. I may have shocked the yeast with that transfer.
Thoughts?
 

Countrygent

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From my reading, DAP might be the culprit. Late onset H2S can come from too much nitrogen rather than too little - additions shouldn’t be made after 1/2 sugar depletion according to advice and instructions. As for having reduless and yeast nutrition like Fermaid ... seems I very quickly had a little first aid kit with Pectin enzyme, tartaric acid, sorbate, Kmeta, nutrients, starters, opti-red, noblesse, a variety of yeast, and more. When you hit your batch with sulfite, degassing might chase away the H2S. I was also advised to fine and clear, and get off the gross lees as soon as possible. That is all novice advice - but mine did clear up just yesterday, huzzah.
 

KAndr97

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From my reading, DAP might be the culprit. Late onset H2S can come from too much nitrogen rather than too little - additions shouldn’t be made after 1/2 sugar depletion according to advice and instructions. As for having reduless and yeast nutrition like Fermaid ... seems I very quickly had a little first aid kit with Pectin enzyme, tartaric acid, sorbate, Kmeta, nutrients, starters, opti-red, noblesse, a variety of yeast, and more. When you hit your batch with sulfite, degassing might chase away the H2S. I was also advised to fine and clear, and get off the gross lees as soon as possible. That is all novice advice - but mine did clear up just yesterday, huzzah.
I suspect it was too little rather than too much, but your point is well noted. The recipe I used called for one part Yeast Energizer and one part Yeast Nutrient. Seeing as Nutrient is DAP and the Energizer contains DAP, I think I probably had a pretty severe nitrogen deficiency. I'm also using crystals for my Nutrient, not powder. The half teaspoon (or however much I used, I don't remember and don't feel like checking) probably was closer to 1/4 of a teaspoon. Either way, I didn't supplement nearly enough of anything and ended up stressing my lil yeastie boys too much.
I'm definitely gonna keep your words in mind, though. It'd suck to overcompensate in my next batch and have just the same problem.
 

KAndr97

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I know it's been a bit, but I wanted to update you guys. I got the Reduless and dosed my wine as directed. I don't have my notes on hand, but I think I used about 1.92 grams for five gallons of wine. It worked great, the egg smell is totally gone.
It worked surprisingly quickly. All of the smell dissipated immediately after I stirred it in. I tasted it after racking off the reduless and it's definitely fruitier. I've been reading up on proper nutrient addition to prevent this kind of thing from happening in the future.
 
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