Spraying for fungus

Discussion in 'Grape Growing & Vineyard Forum' started by jandrew156, Apr 23, 2019.

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  1. Apr 29, 2019 #21

    Masbustelo

    Masbustelo

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    If anybody has some ideas how to rig up electric fencing (for raccoons), I would appreciate suggestions.
     

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  2. Apr 29, 2019 #22

    Masbustelo

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    Dennis Griffith
    Which Sevin do you use, the one that is Carbaryl based or the newer Zeta-Cypermethrin based one? The newer one works much better for me.
    I have the Carbaryl based that I bought two years ago. They drop like 'flys'.
     
  3. Apr 29, 2019 #23

    Dennis Griffith

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    They do make temporary fiberglass posts as well as solar chargers for temporary installations. They also sell inexpensive 110V chargers as well. Your local farm supply store should have all of these. You could use 1" tape along the bottom and maybe the next lug up. 4 legged (and 2 legged) critters don't care for that loose bladder feeling they get when in contact with the wire/tape. We used to have horses, so the electric infrastructure was already in place, as well as an abundance of the temporary poles. I still use them for all sorts of tasks.

    DSCN3745.JPG
     
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  4. Apr 29, 2019 #24

    Masbustelo

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    Is the tape better than old regular wire?
     
  5. Apr 29, 2019 #25

    Dennis Griffith

    Dennis Griffith

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    No, just easier to see. Remember to turn off the electric before working on the grapes ;-)
     
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  6. Apr 30, 2019 #26

    Dennis Griffith

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    Zeta-Cypermethrin (Garden Tech). I had an experience last year that makes me questions whether Carbaryl is effective against JBs here now. I use Bonide Fruit Tree Spray (Captan, Malathion, and Carbaryl) as one of my early treatments here (fruit trees and spray). I can spray everything with it and it is convenient for me. Last year, 4 days after a had used Bonide FTS, the JBs hit and it seemed that the FTS was just seasoning on the leaves. I had to spray the grapes at Noon with Zeta-Cypermethrin to stop their damage. Last year they showed up all at once by the bus load. I set traps out away from the orchard and vineyard to draw them away. The only down side to them is that the bags fill completely up in less than a day. A troubling note, I am spotting June bugs already, so I expect JBs in May this year.

    DSCN3664.JPG

    less than a days worth..
     
  7. Apr 30, 2019 #27

    Masbustelo

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    I do a walk through a couple times a day after they show up, and shoot everyone I see. I know you have lots more vines. They weren't too heavy here last year. Are you sure your traps aren't attracting them?
     
  8. May 1, 2019 #28

    Dennis Griffith

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    I'm hoping the traps are attracting them. I set them up some distance from the trees and vines. And they sure do like the smell of the traps. But, everything loves eating grape leaves (including humans).
     
  9. May 6, 2019 #29

    jandrew156

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    So, the Bonide FTS had zero effect on the JB's? Do you recommend spraying with the Zeta-Cypermethrin after they hit?
    btw, I've also seen a TON of June bugs here in SW Pa. My dog can't stop eating them....
     
  10. May 6, 2019 #30

    Dennis Griffith

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    It did not seem to slow them down. I like this early on as it is different from what I follow it with. It is the only time I use malathion also, but I like it in case some little buggers are hiding out that dormant spray didn't get. Here is what I like:

    Bonide Dormant Oil (bud break and earlier)

    Bonide Fruit Tree Spray (once right after bud break)

    Mancozeb (early season and after harvest)

    Immunox or Captan (rotate up to harvest)

    Sevin (Garden Tech - Zeta-Cypermethrin) (early to mid season for JBs)

    Ortho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer (later in season once)

    Neem and Serenade in many mixes (the Neem for it's effect in reducing JB populations and the Serenade in long term reduction of fungus)

    You must be careful using insecticides prior to fruit set as you don't want to kill the bees. I typically mow the vineyard area prior to spraying to limit clover/dandelions attracting bees near the vines. I also have fruit trees, and follow pretty much the same regiment. And yes, at the first sign of JBs, I nuke them and about every 7 days afterward for at least a month. Left untreated, they will strip a vine in a day. It's almost biblical here when they pop out and the June bugs are early indicators of the start of the season. I also treat the soil with milky spore, in and surrounding the vineyard and orchard areas.
     
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  11. May 6, 2019 #31

    jandrew156

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    So, when you spray for the JB's, you don't do any fungal protection? Or do you rotate the fungal inside of the insecticide?
    say...
    day 1 - sevin
    day 4 - fungal
    day 7 - sevin
    day 11 - fungal
    ...etc...
    so every 4 days they're getting some type of spray??
     
  12. May 6, 2019 #32

    Dennis Griffith

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    It depends on when I last sprayed fungicide. If nothing else is due, then I spray just the insecticide. I try to adjust the schedule from there out to get everything in one spray. I don't like spraying more frequent than once a week, and if I can stretch it to once every 2 weeks, that's good. But when it's JB season, it's once a week. You need to read the labels on the products you use and create a strategy that works for you and the issues you face. I keep a journal each year on when I spray, dates I see certain issues start, and when bud break, fruit set, and veraison start. It doesn't have to be fancy, just a cheap wall calendar to use this as a guideline from the previous year (or more).
     
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  13. Jun 11, 2019 #33

    FrontenacMan

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    I've been following this thread since it's start in April. Just wanted to thank all of you for the info. I had a major problem with black rot last year. I think weather conditions were a factor but I also learned much about pruning to make sure I get good air flow. This year my vines (5 year old Frontenac) are looking very good. But I noted a couple of leaves with some brown spots and a cane or two with black spots (about a week ago). I treated with Mancozeb. My clusters look very good and a lot of them (more than past years). It is early of course but I am hopeful for a very good crop this year. It seems as this year the growing season is delayed from prior years. I did not see bud break until a month ago. Do you recommend continued treatment with Mancozeb? Also, I've seen some info on thinning out/reducing the number if clusters to allow for larger berries. I'm seeing between 35 to 50 clusters per vine. Any thoughts?
     
  14. Jun 11, 2019 #34

    Dennis Griffith

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    You need to switch from Mancozeb 66 days before you expect harvest. Plus a rotation will help keep the fungus from adapting to one product. I love Mancozeb, but I only use it early and late season.
     
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  15. Jun 11, 2019 #35

    FrontenacMan

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    Thanks Dennis. Yes, I read earlier in your post that you rotate to keep fungus from adapting. Looks like Immunox and Captan are your recommendations. Very good information.
     
  16. Jun 11, 2019 #36

    Dennis Griffith

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    It still depends on what issues you have. These 2 cover several grape related issues, but not all of them. And one may be more effective on a particular issue that the other. I would also include Serenade to see how that works for you. It is a biological agent and not chemical, so it mode of action is very different from chemical choices. You description of the issue you have sounds more like Phomopsis, which is an issue I've also had this year due to the increased rainfall/humidity. Captan is an effective choice for this, but be careful using it during fruit set as it has been recently shown to be harmful to honey bees. It only causes a problem when the bees pollinate something treated with Captan and carry it back to the hive. It effects larvae development, as I understand it.
     
  17. Jun 12, 2019 at 3:39 AM #37

    GreenEnvy22

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    20190603_194302.jpg I generally never spray the same thing twice in a row, but a couple of weeks ago I sprayed Pristine, and this morning I did again. It's been so wet here I'm concerned about mildew early in the season, and some bunches are still opening up, so wanted to get some protection from that and also black rot.
    Will switch to manzate next and then rotate through the others.
    Once I see JB's appearing I'll use the altacor which seems to do a good job on killing them off.
    This was what my muscat looked like last week. Yard is dug up as we're putting in a patio there.
     
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  18. Jun 12, 2019 at 8:36 AM #38

    Masbustelo

    Masbustelo

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    Altacor at $200 dollar for 16 ounces is pretty steep for backyard grapevines. I've used Sevin last couple of years, and found it very effective. Sevin is 32 ounces concentrate $13.50 at Walmart.
     
  19. Jun 12, 2019 at 11:32 AM #39

    GreenEnvy22

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    Ah, see you just need relatives who are commercial grape growers and will give you freebies :)
     
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  20. Jun 12, 2019 at 5:14 PM #40

    Dennis Griffith

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    Oh my, I searched on Printine spray and found it right off. Seems it replaces wet wipes for toilet needs. If you are only using it once a week, well........... On the serious side, you have to pick what addresses your issues and fits your vineyards size.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019 at 6:37 PM

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