Sanitizing

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For years and years I have used two different non rinse sanitizers. C-Brite and Star-San. In my mind the key is the "non rinse" part. When I see someone sanitize and rinse with hot or cold tap water, doesn't that defeat the purpose?

Also, for a quick sanitize, has anyone ever used rubbing alcohol to swab down a pair of scissors or a probe thermometer before use?

WV
 
Correct - it defeats the entire process when you use tap water hot or cold.

As to alcohol swab I use starsan before storing them and I store them wet. (Not scissors or anything metal) BUT as long as it's not wet with alcohol I don't see any issue. Guess to be perfect you could use 'Everclear'.
 
Correct - it defeats the entire process when you use tap water hot or cold.

As to alcohol swab I use starsan before storing them and I store them wet. (Not scissors or anything metal) BUT as long as it's not wet with alcohol I don't see any issue. Guess to be perfect you could use 'Everclear'.

Maybe I wasn't clear about the alcohol. I meant to say wipe a probe thermometer or scissors right before using to avoid soaking time in C Brite or San Star.
 
Never soak in StarSan 1 minute is all it needs. (Per Manufacturers instructions)

And if you really trying to be careful, don't use rubbing alcohol - use everclear.

if you practice good sanitation procedures - especially cleaning containers and equipment well AFTER use, then your pre-use cleaning isn't as critical.
Leftover particles on equipment and in containers are potential breeding places. Remove those things and the equipment stored clean only needs a touch up before use.
Clean those probes and scissors before storing, store in a clean container and then you only need touch up cleaning before use.
 
Never soak in StarSan 1 minute is all it needs. (Per Manufacturers instructions)

And if you really trying to be careful, don't use rubbing alcohol - use everclear.

if you practice good sanitation procedures - especially cleaning containers and equipment well AFTER use, then your pre-use cleaning isn't as critical.
Leftover particles on equipment and in containers are potential breeding places. Remove those things and the equipment stored clean only needs a touch up before use.
Clean those probes and scissors before storing, store in a clean container and then you only need touch up cleaning before use.

I am a sanitizing freak. Just as a side note, I have used rubbing alcohol to wipe down instruments for 15 years as a brewer with no ill effects. Why do you say do not soak in Star San? I usually leave bottles in for 3 minutes or so.
 
Anyone ever use this sanitizer? A Purell foodservice sanitizing spray bottle? IMG_7437.JPG

It consists of:
Ethyl Alcohol 30%
Isopropyl alcohol 1.5%
Potassium hydroxide .35%

I bought it a while back while at a restaurant supply shop but have yet to use it. But Are there even sanitizers that aren’t ‘no rinse’? Seems like it would be a universal thing.
 
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Anyone ever use this sanitizer? A Purell foodservice sanitizing spray bottle? View attachment 51928

It consists of:
Ethyl Alcohol 30%
Isopropyl alcohol 1.5%
Potassium hydroxide .35%

I bought it a while back while at a restaurant supply shop but have yet to use it. But Are there even sanitizers that aren’t ‘no rinse’? Seems like it would be a universal thing.


Here are the specs

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/pu...MI4L_x3eqf3gIV0YuzCh1i_AWpEAQYASABEgIcSfD_BwE
 
I've been leaning toward C-Brite of late. The bleach smell makes me feel like I am really sanitizing.With Star San, if your water doesn't have the right PH levels it clouds the water and apparently doesn't work as well.
 
I've been leaning toward C-Brite of late. The bleach smell makes me feel like I am really sanitizing.With Star San, if your water doesn't have the right PH levels it clouds the water and apparently doesn't work as well.

I found the same specs actually. Thanks.
Star san is great for using your old discarded ph test strips if you have em. It’s been a while but IIRC as long as I saw bright yellow it was still good. —Scooter probably knows the deal. I didn’t last long with Starsan. I’m all K-meta/Citric solution 3:1 now. You know very quickly if still potent or not when opening a jug.
And Never heard of c-brite
 
I found the same specs actually. Thanks.
Star san is great for using your old discarded ph test strips if you have em. It’s been a while but IIRC as long as I saw bright yellow it was still good. —Scooter probably knows the deal. I didn’t last long with Starsan. I’m all K-meta/Citric solution 3:1 now. You know very quickly if still potent or not when opening a jug.
And Never heard of c-brite

Here ya go........

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFDKTN0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Don't let the word "cleanser" fool you. I read years back that the FDA made the company remove the word "sanitizer" for some technical reason. Believe me, I have never had a bad batch of beer in 17 years and don't really wait until the solution dries out. If I'm sanitizing a bucket, I swish it around with my hand making sure it has contact with all surfaces and the dump it into another bucket (to save it) and give the bucket a shake.
 
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Taken from a home-brew forum:

When I used C-brite I weighed it. The packets are 0.8 oz, so 2 oz per 5 gallon would be correct. Interestingly they have changed the labeling on the package and no longer call it a sanitizer. It was a legal labeling issue rather than an effectiveness issue.
 
Many old hands on here will say never use bleach around wine making equipment. Here's a part of this article that discusses chlorine bleach (https://winemakermag.com/article/413-keep-it-clean )

"Chlorine: Chlorine bleach is a good glass equipment sanitizer, but is of limited usage for plastic, since it can be absorbed by the plastic, leading to off-flavors in your wine. For sanitizing, use at a rate of about 2-1/2 tablespoons per 5 gallons of water, then let the solution soak for about 5 minutes. You must rinse thoroughly to remove the excess chlorine, and if you happen to be rinsing with well water you could possibly be re-contaminating. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, it will be impossible to totally remove the chlorine. Chlorine also kills yeast, so any breakdown in rinsing can possibly lead to fermentation problems." (Emphasis added)

As to NOT soaking in Starsan - Not needed. Only need to be in contact for one minute. Don't forget that's it's an acid and can cause problems if left in long term contact with most metals. StarSan is an approved commercial food processing product and it last a long time. I use Distilled water for my mix of Starsan and it keeps well that way.
 
The Kmeta citric solution is all I use for sanitizing purposes. I agree regarding the chlorine issue, the fact that C-Brite is chlorine based means it won't get used in my basement.
 
Everybody has their formula that they are comfortable with. I use around 56g Kmeta to a gallon of RO water, depending on what I'm doing at the time, I may add 15g of citric acid to that gallon to boost the strength. Don't try to smell the resulting solution, it can knock you down with SO2 gas.
 
Kmeta/citric solution here the past year or so. Used iodine based products for too long prior.

Never liked the feel of Starsan and like products.

Just a reminder, Kmeta does de-chlorinate.
 
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