For the record, I was not saying there was anything wrong with his punctuation! I just noted that, with a simple change, it casts a whole new shade onto his meaning!
Repairing a wine cooler
- Thread starter jgmann67
- Start date
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For the record, I was not saying there was anything wrong with his punctuation! I just noted that, with a simple change, it casts a whole new shade onto his meaning!
Just messing with you. You are the goto for spelling and grammer checks.
Thank you!
Now, just to keep you compensated for your patronage: "go-to" and "grammar."
I looked up Supco Piercing Valve and interestingly, there's more than one. There's the Supco Bullet Piercing Valve, Silver; and the Supco BPV31. Both really cheap.
Next time I can sit down and fiddle, I'm going to pull the covers off the cooling unit and take some pictures.
Hate to ask a silly question but does the compressor run.
Not silly. I'm told yes. But, I haven't touched it since I brought it home.
meadmaker1
Member
The unit very likely isn't flat or low on charge but without service ports who knows?
And a low pressure switch could prevent it from running.
And a low pressure switch could prevent it from running.
You got it meadmaker. Here is my two cents: If it is not an electrical issue (and we all cross our fingers that it is an electrical issue) then the only way to really diagnose the problem is to get a set of manifold gauges on it. Unfortunately, this involves the use of piercing valves in order to get into the system. After diagnosing the problem, recover the refrigerant (if there is any left), and then install service ports to replace the piercing valves. Fix the problem (leak, compressor, etc.) and then evacuate the system before recharging it. I perform a triple evacuation trying to go down to 400 microns each time. This ensures that the system is completely cleared and no leaks. Pulling a deep vacuum like that will not happen if there is even the slightest leak. These type of refrigerators use a capillary tube for their metering device and are considered to be "critically charged". So, you should be able to charge it by adding the recommended amount of refrigerant. However, to do the job properly requires monitoring the "superheat" while charging. I'm sure there are some youtube videos out there demonstrating this technique.
meadmaker1
Member
I dont go to 400 each time.
3500 mics
1500 mics
Breaking vacuum with nitrogen each time
500 or less mics. And hold below 1000 mics for 10 min.
The unit should have factory charge info but I prsonaly like a liquid line site glass on this equipment.
Charge till I get a slow bubble.
Tools and understanding of circuts will be a big deal repairing this
3500 mics
1500 mics
Breaking vacuum with nitrogen each time
500 or less mics. And hold below 1000 mics for 10 min.
The unit should have factory charge info but I prsonaly like a liquid line site glass on this equipment.
Charge till I get a slow bubble.
Tools and understanding of circuts will be a big deal repairing this
This is sounding less like something I should do myself, and more like something I should give to an HVAC guy to fix.
Yeah, unless it is just and electrical problem (Thermostat, wiring, etc.) the job does require some special equipment like a manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, etc.
Air Conditioning and Refrigeration systems shod never need to be recharged. If a system needs to be charged, then there is a leak somewhere.
Air Conditioning and Refrigeration systems shod never need to be recharged. If a system needs to be charged, then there is a leak somewhere.
I was hoping you were going to say that. I wouldn't touch it either.
@meadmaker1 and @winojoe, don't laugh at me but I have an old AC unit on my boat with a small leak. I have a canister of R22 and all I do is hook up an amp meter turn on the unit and add freon until I reach the proper amps. It will last 4 or 5 months. I have a guage but have no idea how to use it. I just use one of the leads to fill the unit.
I had that problem on my home a/c unit. Had to recharge each year for three years.
The most common leak problem is with the schrader valve seal. Try this, get a a schrader valve cap with an integrated O-ring. I did this for my home a/c unit and it has not required a new charge for 5 years now (knock-on-wood). I have a full can of R-22 and will replace the a/c unit when that can is empty. So far I have not needed to tap into it.
The most common leak problem is with the schrader valve seal. Try this, get a a schrader valve cap with an integrated O-ring. I did this for my home a/c unit and it has not required a new charge for 5 years now (knock-on-wood). I have a full can of R-22 and will replace the a/c unit when that can is empty. So far I have not needed to tap into it.
meadmaker1
Member
R 22. Rule of thumb is charge until the suction line is beer can cold.
If it freezes up it's low. Or filter is dirty.
If it over you loose capacity.
Super heat or sub cool is the correct way but I'm not teaching that on this forum.
If it freezes up it's low. Or filter is dirty.
If it over you loose capacity.
Super heat or sub cool is the correct way but I'm not teaching that on this forum.
Don't want to crash this thread but many HVAC experienced folks here. My boat AC is a 16,000 btuh water cooled which is the standard size for boats. For the most part it works fine but occasionally if it's running for a long time it stops blowing cold air. All I have to is shut it off for 1-2 minutes and it work fine again. It's not icing up and the coils appear to be clean. Any ideas, My initial reaction is its not pumping enough water to cool properly.
meadmaker1
Member
Based on you post about charging.
It may be over charged the amps listed are usually higher than reality operation.
You compressor may be opening it's internal limit. Verify with amp draw. Could also be high pressure lock out. This would equalize quickly once stopped. What kind of compressor?
Your previous comments and human nature would have me exploring over charged.
It may be over charged the amps listed are usually higher than reality operation.
You compressor may be opening it's internal limit. Verify with amp draw. Could also be high pressure lock out. This would equalize quickly once stopped. What kind of compressor?
Your previous comments and human nature would have me exploring over charged.
Thank you, I'll try pulling some charge. I imagine I should use running amps and not full load amps and I don't know what kind of compressor. The link below is similar to what I have except it's an older 120 volt R22 unit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-16...015922&hash=item56ad7238a7:g:utIAAOSwfN5a0Mgs
meadmaker1
Member
Add till the suction line just starts to sweet be little at a time.
Beer can cold.
Most units run at about 2/3 listed amps. If I see one drawing listed amps I give my, time to label a coffee can New A/C fund.
Tell me about the water your sitting in, what's the inside of the water coil look like. Can you bypass it and run a demineralizing solution through it.
Beer can cold.
Most units run at about 2/3 listed amps. If I see one drawing listed amps I give my, time to label a coffee can New A/C fund.
Tell me about the water your sitting in, what's the inside of the water coil look like. Can you bypass it and run a demineralizing solution through it.
It's river water which goes through a filter. The evaporator line runs inside the water cooling coil. Just pumps water from the river and back out again.
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