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Pruning in fall?

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jandrew156

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Hello all,

I have a very small attempt at a vineyard that's in the 3rd year. Last year the deer devastated the whole thing, and this spring frost. However, they all came back very strong only to be devastated again by fungus during this wet summer. Mostly mildew and black rot from what I can tell.

So, should I prune off the bad leaves & shoots now or just let them go until next spring?

Also, I'm in SW Pa... any input on grape growing success in this area?

Thanks in advance!
 

Stressbaby

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Did you spray this year? I think by year 2 you need to be prepared with a spray program. I just installed my vineyard this spring and I'm actually going to start spraying now, having seen a bit of phomopsis and powdery mildew.
 

jandrew156

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Well, I did but not early in spring when I should have.
It's so bad now, I just want to know the best chance of eliminating fungus next spring!

Is scrapping and burning all of the leaves now a good idea???

thanks!
 

cgallamo

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I am in the same boat, just a year behind you. I switched my vineyard to primarily Norton, and need to set up a spray program for next year.

I have always heard it is best to wait until late winter to prune. You should clean up and burn the leaves etc in the fall and perhaps do a winter spray of lime sulphur or something else recommended to give yourself a good start.
 

TonyR

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Andrew, i would let them be, after the leaves fall off i would rack under the vines and get rid of as much as you can. Question, what type of grapes are you growing? Some are much more susceptible to mildew and black rot. I am 60 miles due north of Pittsburgh and will be harvesting my Petite Pearl grapes next week, (well thats the plan) You need to spray, make a schedule and stick to it, even if its raining. Also spray dormancy oil, early spring, a few weeks before bud break, about the time you should trim. Hope this helps.
 

Stressbaby

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I don't know where you all are located. I'm in central Missouri.

I've struggled a bit to come up with a comprehensive spray program for next year. Seems like most schedules are disease-oriented and so they make separate, overlapping recommendations for each of the major diseases. Also, the sprays for hybrids are different than vinifera. FINALLY I found this link which does a really nice job of laying out a spray schedule for hybrids for my area (sample spray schedule #1). Problem here is that some of these products are ridiculously expensive.

Based on my reading, Norton needs about 1/2 or less of a standard spray schedule. My vineyard is about 40% Norton, I plan on spraying the Norton less than the others.
 

jandrew156

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Andrew, i would let them be, after the leaves fall off i would rack under the vines and get rid of as much as you can. Question, what type of grapes are you growing? Some are much more susceptible to mildew and black rot. I am 60 miles due north of Pittsburgh and will be harvesting my Petite Pearl grapes next week, (well thats the plan) You need to spray, make a schedule and stick to it, even if its raining. Also spray dormancy oil, early spring, a few weeks before bud break, about the time you should trim. Hope this helps.
I have Concord, Catawba, Neptune, and Niagra... These were suggested to me by the nursery... they were supposed to be rather disease resistant for the area, but go figure...
 

shrewsbury

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sovran. abound, mancozeb, immunox will be the 4 fungicides I use.

the trick (may be) spacing your sprays apart correctly and using sovran closer to harvest time. Making sure to not spray more times than recommended, which is about 4-5 times per year per product. The abound is the only real expensive one, but a gallon should last a few years.
I have a crazy chart, even with a cost per spray for each product. let me know if interested, I can email to you.
 

TonyR

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I use mancozeb and spray every 14 days starting right after bud break till the grapes start to change color. Then use Captan till a few weeks before harvest. Are you planning to make wine from these grapes. Have you ever had any of these wines. I think they are a very acquired taste for wine. Good luck
 

Stressbaby

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sovran. abound, mancozeb, immunox will be the 4 fungicides I use.

the trick (may be) spacing your sprays apart correctly and using sovran closer to harvest time. Making sure to not spray more times than recommended, which is about 4-5 times per year per product. The abound is the only real expensive one, but a gallon should last a few years.
I have a crazy chart, even with a cost per spray for each product. let me know if interested, I can email to you.
I'll take it. I will PM you. Thanks.
 

cgallamo

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sovran. abound, mancozeb, immunox will be the 4 fungicides I use.

the trick (may be) spacing your sprays apart correctly and using sovran closer to harvest time. Making sure to not spray more times than recommended, which is about 4-5 times per year per product. The abound is the only real expensive one, but a gallon should last a few years.
I have a crazy chart, even with a cost per spray for each product. let me know if interested, I can email to you.
I'll take it too! I sent you a PM. I have a spray program as well similar to this, but it has just been ok.
 

jandrew156

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I use mancozeb and spray every 14 days starting right after bud break till the grapes start to change color. Then use Captan till a few weeks before harvest. Are you planning to make wine from these grapes. Have you ever had any of these wines. I think they are a very acquired taste for wine. Good luck
Well, my plan was to make grapes but hearing you makes me wonder!
Are there other types that will make better wine but still do well in PA?

Thanks!
 

TonyR

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I grow Petite Pearl and they do just fine. Makes a very good wine along the lines of California grapes. The acid is very low so if you like a dry wine this is the way to go. None of those funky tastes you get from most Pa wines. I am growing my vines 60 miles north of Pittsburgh, just above I-80.
 

Masbustelo

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Tony what were the numbers on your Petite Pearl this year. I went up to Wisconsin and picked 75 pounds. It was brix 21 and pH 3.40. Five gallon buckets filled to the top only weighed 16 pounds.
 

Stressbaby

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@shrewsbury

Great stuff, thanks very much. I'm going to compare this with what I have already. I can already say I will probably substitute Captan immediately preharvest because 1) I already have some and 2) the PHI is zero versus Sovran which has PHI 14 days. Also, I think I'll have to combine something with the mancozeb early on for better PM control.
 

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