Pectic Enzyme and temperature

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Raptor99

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I've had some country wine and cider that has refused to clear. They were started around October, so normally they would be clear by now. I added an extra dose of pectic enzyme to them, but it did not help. Cold crashing did not help either. In the past two months the weather has warmed up. During the winter, the temperature in my kitchen was around 67 degrees. Recently it has been closer to 72-75. Within a few weeks of the warmer weather, several batches cleared nicely. The peach wine is still cloudy, but the pear wine and cider look good.

I remember reading something about pectic enzyme working better at higher temperatures. I will need to keep that in mind in the future. I wonder if it would help to hold the must at around 75 degrees for 24 hours to let the pectic enzyme work, and then let it cool to around 67 when I start fermentation. I prefer to ferment at a lower temperature to slow it down and preserve more fruit flavor.
 
I found this on WineMakerMag.com

"Because enzymes are proteins, they react with bentonite. For this reason, you should wait at least 24 hours after adding pectic enzymes before adding bentonite.

Ideally, pectinases should be added in temperatures of at least 80 °F (27 °C) to be most effective. It can be added at lower temperatures, but this will slow the time it takes to react. Temperatures too warm or too cold can inhibit enzymatic activity, as can too high of an alcohol content."

I normally add my pectic enzyme with the must temperature of 75° to 78°and a ph between 3.4 and 3.6.
I allow it to work for 24 to 36 hours before pitching the yeast.
 
@Rembee That sounds like a good idea. I will need a way to keep my must at 75 to 78 degrees for 24 hours or so. My kitchen is not normally what warm for most of the year. I might need to use a thermostat and an heating pad.
 
In addition to the operating temps for pectic enzymes, CO2 also comes out of solution at higher temps. Having CO2 in wine causes the potential precipitate to remain in solution. So you probably had two things working in your wines favor.

As for that pesky high pectin peach, keep it in the 70’s and give in another big dose of PE, you really can’t overdose with the stuff unless you do something ridiculous.
 
the peach wine may benefit more from use of bentonite. it is best to use in the must pre-fermentation but will work at post. the haze can be a protein haze.
 
@Johnd Now that I have an AIO pump it will get degassed somewhat when I rack, so hopefully going forward CO2 won't be as much of a problem. I'm trying to decide whether to add yet another dose of pectic to the peach, or just go to the bentonite. It depends on whether it is pectic haze or protein haze.

@salcoco I bought some bentonite and I plan on using it on the peach wine. I'm not sure that I want to use it pre-fermentation because it will remove pectic enzyme.
 
@Johnd Now that I have an AIO pump it will get degassed somewhat when I rack, so hopefully going forward CO2 won't be as much of a problem. I'm trying to decide whether to add yet another dose of pectic to the peach, or just go to the bentonite. It depends on whether it is pectic haze or protein haze.

@salcoco I bought some bentonite and I plan on using it on the peach wine. I'm not sure that I want to use it pre-fermentation because it will remove pectic enzyme.
Consider trying the PE first, since you can’t do harm with it, it’s very hard to overdose with PE. If it doesn’t work, you’ll have done no harm and can try out the bentonite.

On the flip side, you can over dose with bentonite, it can and will strip desirable compounds from your wine, and if it’s not protein, you’ll still need to attack that with PE.

As for using these two products before you have finished wine, dose your pectic and let it work for a day before adding your yeast. Once you have a strong ferment going, mix in your bentonite slurry. In kit wine making, bentonite is used during fermentation frequently.
 

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