Pasteurize SP instead of using stabilizers

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Ryan S

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Hi! I have 5 gallons in secondary, tastes awesome so far. I made it at work with my coworkers, was a lot of fun. I've read a couple people complaining about the taste of k-meta and k-sorbate that the original SP recipe calls for, and I happened upon this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-with-pics.193295/ .

Is there anything wrong with sweetening my SP (planning on ~4 cups sugar to sweeten) and then bottling, popping one open every day (I'll just re-cap) until there's a bit of nice carbonation and then pasteurizing using the method in the linked thread? They seem to be having great success with it for apple juice, so why not with lemon juice? :)
 

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Okay, so I see ThreeSheetsToTheWind saying this:

ThreeSheetsToTheWind said:
... A fun project that I played with was to oversweeten after fermentation was done, bottle carbonate (like with beer) and stove top pasteurise to stop fermentation. I ended up with bottle carbed, sweet skeeter pee.

It was good, but I prefer mine still.

So I guess that answers my question -- it should be fine! So I guess I'm just here to be proud of my pictures :) It's in my glass carboy now but I forgot my phone at home on Friday :D
 
Yup I've done it with great results.

A neat trick is to fill a plastic soda bottle and just squeeze it every day until it feels like a fresh unopened soda bottle. Then you know it's built up enough pressure, and it's time to pasteurize.
 
All bottled up, got 53 bottles out of it, the 15 or so (non-sparkling) bottles I put in the office fridge are already disappearing. Was nice to have coworkers to run the capper for me lol. I have a plastic bottle filled for carbonation checking, and a "control" bottle of sparkling water to compare it to. =) Now to pasteurize in the next few days / week to avoid the wine de-bottling itself violently.
 

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Bottling pictures :D
 

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Wine and cider are what I call a multi variable preservative systems. There are several factors which interact to make stability. pH, SO2, CO2, alcohol, fermentable sugar, nutrients, oxygen, time, temperature, filtration. One can exclude certain families just by reaching a set point.

Yeast by itself is relatively easy to kill with temperature. Wagner in Grapes into Wine mentions 105F for one hour and 140F for ten minutes and 95F storage (week should kill all yeast). For the ten minute 190F treatment in the link I would hope that the bottle contents make it to 140. I doubt you have made 180 or 190 internal bottle temperature.

If I am in a factory making a commercially sterile canned food the rule is 10 minutes in a steam tunnel or boiling water bath at pH 4 or less. The risk is particulates coming to pH 4 so we ran 45 minutes in a mix preheat tank before the filler.
Cider pH should be below 4 which is a cut off point. I would err on the side of longer time low temp. The bottle exploding pressure is linear with temperature, the flavor kinetics are logarithmic with temp.
Other thoughts: an ice chest makes a good holding box, might be interesting with a light bulb to preheat or post hold. A basket or even a round piece of screen should go between the heat and the glass bottle. Soda was 2.2 atmospheres CO2. Everything is more fun if you can measure and temp is easy, :i
8486B5D0-3AA6-4D1F-A951-D8E41EB57C40.jpeg
 

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Nice! A lot of that went over my head. I agree, I don't think the internal bottle temperature makes it to 180 F, I think the intent is 140-160 for about 10 minutes, like you mentioned. I think a couple people have done what you did with the thermometer in the bottle (along with 5 other bottles, or whatever, in their pot) and confirm the internal liquid gets up to at least 160 for 10 minutes or so.
 
Pasturing went smooth, was easier than I expected, cool stuff!
 

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