Nutrient schedule

[derekjames100]

I have been victim of under nourishment and H2S and also over feeding causing aggressive fermentation leading to stressed yeast and H2S.

I want NO H2S this time.

Please share your feeding schedule.

I have Go Ferm and Fermaid K.

Was going to use GO ferm with a total of 1 g /gallon fermaid K. I was going to divide the go ferm into two doses 1/2 6 hours after inoculation and 1/2 when brix drops by 1/3--(24 to 16).

Any suggestions or alterations

 

[Masbustelo]

If you want to use a somewhat precise formula. http://www.meadmaderight.com/tiosna--inorganic-.html

 

[ceeaton]

Was going to use GO ferm with a total of 1 g /gallon fermaid K. I was going to divide the go ferm into two doses 1/2 6 hours after inoculation and 1/2 when brix drops by 1/3--(24 to 16).

I usually use all of the Go Ferm when I rehydrate my yeast. Here's a link to a pdf about yeast hydration:

http://morewinemaking.com/public/pdf/wineyeastrehydration09.pdf

Hope it helps.

 

[geek]

I have been victim of under nourishment and H2S and also over feeding causing aggressive fermentation leading to stressed yeast and H2S.

I want NO H2S this time.

Please share your feeding schedule.

I have Go Ferm and Fermaid K.

Was going to use GO ferm with a total of 1 g /gallon fermaid K. I was going to divide the go ferm into two doses 1/2 6 hours after inoculation and 1/2 when brix drops by 1/3--(24 to 16).

Any suggestions or alterations

what yeast do you plan to use this time and for what grapes?

 

[Boatboy24]

Go-Ferm for hydration. Fermaid at 1g/gallon, divided into two feedings. One at the onset of fermentation (formation of cap), and the second at about 1/3 sugar depletion.

 

[Redbird1]

I have been victim of under nourishment and H2S and also over feeding causing aggressive fermentation leading to stressed yeast and H2S.

I want NO H2S this time.

Please share your feeding schedule.

I have Go Ferm and Fermaid K.

Was going to use GO ferm with a total of 1 g /gallon fermaid K. I was going to divide the go ferm into two doses 1/2 6 hours after inoculation and 1/2 when brix drops by 1/3--(24 to 16).

Any suggestions or alterations

Note that the presence of alcohol will impact your refractometer reading, so a reading of 16 Brix won't be 1/3 depletion. Using this calculator that utilizes a correction factor, a reading of 16 Brix would put you at 1.042 if you started at 24 Brix (1.101). That would be well past 1/2 sugar depletion.

 

[Johnd]

Go-Ferm for hydration. Fermaid at 1g/gallon, divided into two feedings. One at the onset of fermentation (formation of cap), and the second at about 1/3 sugar depletion.

Second for Jim's regimen. Although I don't rehydrate at all, my Fermaid additions are the same, I've never once had an H2S problem.

 

[wineforfun]

Go-Ferm for hydration. Fermaid at 1g/gallon, divided into two feedings. One at the onset of fermentation (formation of cap), and the second at about 1/3 sugar depletion.

Third for Jim's recommendation, schedule-wise.

I just use regular yeast nutrient, no Go-Ferm or Fermaid.

 

[geek]

For what it's worth, I tried a sample package of Andante yeast, which they claim you will have no h2s issues, and it worked like a charm.

 

[ceeaton]

Derek, check out this thread, very informative.

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38704

I knew I read that using Fermaid O later was okay, just didn't realize it was on this forum.

 

[derekjames100]

Note that the presence of alcohol will impact your refractometer reading, so a reading of 16 Brix won't be 1/3 depletion. Using this calculator that utilizes a correction factor, a reading of 16 Brix would put you at 1.042 if you started at 24 Brix (1.101). That would be well past 1/2 sugar depletion.

Mind...blown!

So when is 1/3??????

 

[Johnd]

Mind...blown!

So when is 1/3??????

I don't believe that you need to get hung up on precise calculations when timing the addition of nutrients in AF. If you started at 1.090, and dry is .990, the difference between the two is.100. .100 divided by three is .0333, subtract .0333 from 1.090, you get 1.0567, add your nutrients between 1.050 and 1.060.

Why no need for pinpoint precision? First, you can't know ahead of time what the SG will be at the end of fermentation, could be .990, .992, .995, so that's already imprecise. Secondly, who can sit around measuring SG all day / night waiting for the "magical" number. IMHO, "about 1/3" is plenty accurate for the timing of nutrient additions.

 

[Boatboy24]

Yep, what @Johnd said.

I'm even a little less precise than that. Most of my ferments go 6-8 days. So I usually feed on day 2 or 3. I've gotten lazy the more wine I've made. After the 'final' initial reading prior to pitching the yeast, I usually don't measure until around day 5 or 6, if I'm seeing good visible signs of fermentation activity.

 

[MisterEd]

As Jim said we can get a little lazy on keeping a tight schedule for such things as nutrient additions. The yeast are not that picky about when they get that "vitamin shower" as long as it happens sooner than later.
Another thing regarding yeast hydration: I use well water to avoid the nasty things like chlorine and such that is added to a city water supply. Yeast will also get a big kick out of being hydrated w/ a juice concentrate or a sampling of the must juice itself. I had some frozen niagara juice that I used this year for starters and the yeast went beserk (foaming etc.).

 

[NorCal]

We used Renaissance yeast this season...no H2S whatsoever. Google it, my go to from now on.

 

[Rodnboro]

For what it's worth, I tried a sample package of Andante yeast, which they claim you will have no h2s issues, and it worked like a charm.

I also used both of my samples and had no issues. I only see that they sell it in large quantities though.