- Jan 12, 2012
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Brewing beer using the Brew In a Bag method but with this instead. Easier. Steep covered and swaddled in towels, off the heat, at 164 down to 152 (90 minutes or so). Pull it out (I'm gonna rest it on two PVC pipes over the pot), sparge the grains right into the pot, take a reading, adjust if needed and go on with the boil. It'll be more efficient.A question borne of ignorance but, what are you going to use it for?
Bernard, I have not made wine in 6 years, since I had a cellar full of my past creations (I still have ~ 130 bottles) and I am extremely limited down here in what I can get to make it from. This an all-craft beer area, so juice buckets, grapes, etc. – nobody has them, can get them, or even knows what you are talking about. There are no winemaking clubs to put together an order (lots of beer clubs). So I was limited to fruit wines and native grapes. I do love scuppernong and muscadine wines, but that's about all I could do here from grapes.Are you still making wine these days, or are all your efforts focused on brewing beers?
I am uninterested in "wines" like Skeeter Pee, don't care for mead, and have just made so many different "country wines" over the years. I have medals from Los Angeles, Florida, Missouri, Tennessee, and more I can't recall. The high point was medaling in LA with a MUSCADINE - in the land where no one ever had it before! Heck, I even won a Winemaking Talk contest. So, I ran that course pretty well.I understand.. Sadly, I understand. And if if you have a cellar-full of wine then you might want to slow down when it comes to native grapes, but what about country wines or mead? Not perhaps a Syrah or a Pinot Noir but Skeeter Pee can be very drinkable as can be elderflower or elderberry. And I have a gallon of parsnip wine nicely clearing while I recently started a rhubarb wine and am about to pitch yeast into a few gallons of dandelion must. Waiting for our mulberry tree to bear fruit and will make a few gallons of mulberry wine (quite delicious - made my first batch last year. Don't get me wrong: I like a good dark beer but beer fills me up in a way that a wine does not.
Yes, it is a filter. The wort is actually dripping out the bottom. I don't know how much you know about Brew In A Bag brewing, so I'll basically go through my process. You start out your water and get it up to 164 F for a lot of recipes. The coffee filter is in the pot at this time. Then the pot is removed from heat and the grain goes inside the filter that is inside the pot for the steeping process – called mashing in all-grain brewing – to make the wort. I wrap the pot with towels to hold in the heat. Most beers mash at about 152 degrees F but recipes differ. When I add the grain, the temp will fall from the 164 to the correct range, and towels will hold it at 152 for the mash, which can be as long as 90 minutes or even longer, depending on recipe.Trying to make sense of the image. This is a filter, yes? But it is holding the wart with no seepage? There is no glass container that the filter is sitting inside, yes? How does this work? Magic?
If you've brewed before, you "get it." What I learned was that the all-grain recipe needs to run about double the grain to come out OK with the lower efficiency of this BIAB method. I have it worked out now so I shouldn't have to boost it in the next batch.aha! I thought that you were brewing the wort in that filter and that lighter area towards the top was fermentation but now I understand that you had drained the wort and were about to sparge the grains to extract every last ounce of sugar from the grains. Truth be told, I don't brew very much and when I do I brew a gallon or two at a time and only use BIAB methods. I use a 2 gallon bucket whose bottom I have drilled with holes for sparging.
BIAB is generally less efficient than all-grain. So is using a hot water sparge vs. recirculating wort. It goes along with me not wanting to buy any more equipment. Easily fixed by recalculating the grain bill to 12 pounds barley from 7.5, which I did not do for this batch. No worries, a lil DME boosted sugar and all is well except that all I had was dark DME so the color is darker than planned. Even all-grain brewers have to boost now and then.That's the kind of "efficiency" that was more common in the middle ages. Why is your ability to extract sugars so relatively inefficient. Is it the kind of grains you need to use to get a gluten free beer? Is there any value in the use of amylase to help break down the starches?