New guy from Ohio

[Dennis Griffith]

I don't remember the variety or the fig, sorry. It was rated for our zone (6a).

Could be the weather in the lake region reduces their numbers. Their numbers have decreased drastically today, so the Sevin has been effective so far, but I did pick several of the vermin off today. Tomorrow may bring a different day.

 

[shrewsbury]

maybe the "lake flies" & canadian soldiers that come here every year at this time keep the beetles down? At least I don't have to worry about the soldiers and flies doing crop damage.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Do you make wine from your grapes or sell then to someone like Firelands Winery? I know some of the wineries have a had time getting enough grapes. So they bring in juice from CA.

 

[shrewsbury]

actually my first 120 vidal blancs are in their 3rd year. I have 60 more vidals in their second year and 90 delawares I planted this year. My plan is to sell in bulk when I get to that point, then some time down the road making my own wine, sparkling wine, and ice wine.
What do you do with the fruit from your orchard?

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Currently we just dry/can/freeze/eat the fruit, but sometimes my son makes cider (hard) from the apples. My intent in the near future is to try making some lambics using the pears and blueberries. I don't get enough of the other fruit to do anything else but eat. I, also, am in the 3rd year and I let some of my first vines bear some this year. I think I may have mastered the Japanese Beetle issue. This is the first year that I have used liquid Sevin and it seems to do the job. After the second day, I don't see any beetles on the vines. They have moved on to other plants. The next spray will include all the trees and some of the garden. Evidently these beetles don't mind carbaryl, which is what I have used in the past. malathion works great, but it doesn't last long and they are back the next day. I plan on expanding my operation here and just wanted these first seasons to learn viticulture and pest control. I have had many challenges to manage, but think I on the correct road. The first year was a bust as I didn't do weed control and tried natural pest control products, but I only had six vines as a test. Last year, I got more serious, got the weeds out and fought the pests, and planted another 12 vines. This year, the first vines are doing so well I let them bear. I also planted another 28 vines. The beetles caught me off guard this as they just appeared in mass. The strange thing is that I had just sprayed 4 days earlier with Bonide FTS (carbaryl, Captan, and malathion) and it didn't even slow them down. I'm adding Serenade to the mix for fungicide control in addition to the Bonide FTS and Bonide Copper. I also use Neem as a repellent if treatments are too close together. I know this is long winded, but I'm looking to make sure I'm on the right track. Do you mind me asking what your spraying?
Thanks

 

[shrewsbury]

To start, I sprayed yesterday after seeing about 1/2 dozen beetles.
I seem to be ok using sevin but I don't have the same amount of beetles you do.

For fungicides I use Mancozeb, Captan, Imunox, Sovran, Abound, and tebuconazule.

My year starts with a dormant spray, end of march of just mancozeb and sevin.
from april to end of june I spray mancozeb and tebuconzul, I add one spray of mancozeb and immunox, then I throw in one spray of captan and teb and one spray of abound.
after june I use captan with immunox and every third spray abound until the end of august.
In september I will switch between sovran and captan till end of september then hopefully this october I will pick some late harvest vidals.

I add sevin once a month till july then I add it to every spray in july and the first spray of august. That seemed to take care of the beetlkes the last two years.

My biggest producer is my strawberries, I average about 2 pounds per day for 2-3 weeks (ending now) then it will come again this fall.
Plenty of frozen strawberries, preserves, homemade daiquiri mix, and just eating fresh strawberries.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

If I may, to be more specific, do you mix the different products then spray them together as one application? As in Mancozeb and Sevin mixed together? I've written the different makers with the very question and have gotten no response. It would help greatly with my schedule if I was able to do this. I appreciate your taking time to answer my questions.

Those strawberries must be a day neutral variety. Got to really fertilize as they are harder on the soil than the June bearing variety. Home grown is definitely much better than what you get in the store. This year our grapes will be eaten and probably go into some grape jelly. Next year I should have enough to make some wine. I've still got to concrete (this year) in the barn that I'm going to use for a crash/fermentation room so that I can be ready next year.

 

[shrewsbury]

Yes, it is fine to mix certain things. Really you just don't want to mix similiar acting products, like mancozeb and captan, trib and immunox or abound and sovran.

So I mix mancozeb, trib, and sevin.
mancozeb, immunox, sevin
captan, trib, sevin
captan, immunox sevin
abound, sevin
sovran, sevin
what a time saver!

for me the water ration is the trickiest thing and I think it is very misleading.

the amount to spray per acre is too generic.

The coverage will depend how far along your vines or other plant are.

simple math, the more leaves, fruit, buds, and such that there are the more square inches you need to cover.
so simply put, a dormant vine, a vine at bud break, a full canopy vine, and a fully fruited vine will require a different amount of product and water.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

I think I'll have to use a substitute for Abound as it will kill apple trees and I have some near the grapes. I my idea application would be to use the same brew for everything, to include pecan trees. I've been reviewing the products you use and am working up a schedule to use. I already have Immunox and intend to include it in my next spray with Sevin. My biggest issue has been trying to apply all of these products individually. Weather here has been trying as I have few days with little to no wind. I try to do it on a calm day toward the end of the day when the temps are falling off. Again, thanks for all of your help. If you don't mind, I may have more questions.

 

[shrewsbury]

correct, abound is very toxic to the trees. Luckily for me my trees are a good distance from my vines.

immunox will take care of the mildews and a few other things but you will need mancozeb and/or a captan type product to battle the rest.

I am open to all questions, and I will let you know if I don't know how to answer a question.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

I do use Bonide Fruit Tree Spray as I can use it on everything. It contains Captan, Malathion, and Carbaryl. Sevin is typically Carbaryl, but the new Sevin formula from Garden Tech uses something new (Zeta-Cypermethrin). Carbaryl doesn't seem to phase the beetles, but the new Sevin is very effective. I did order some Mancozeb. I was hoping to get in a spray today with Sevin and Immunox. Next week will be Sevin and Mancozeb. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

One more question. I'm trying to figure out how much mancozeb to use per gallon. I have a 15 gallon sprayer, but need to calculate somehow oz. per gallon. It appears that .5 oz per gallon is what I need, but much of the reference refers to quantity per acre and I'm not sure how to figure that out.
Thanks

 

[shrewsbury]

I would need a little more data.
will the 15 gallons of water cover all your vines and be used on just the vines?
how many square feet are you covering?

I use 1/2 oz per gallon based on 1/3 acre and 8 gallons of water.

so if you roughly have 1/3 acre to spray and will use all 15 gallons of water, I would use 1/4 oz per gallon

I would also add the immunox. Immunox and mancozeb work differently and mancozeb will not cover all the mildews, and this time of year mildew has some bad potentials.

 

[rickswine]

Another Ohio guy here, Youngstown area.. Haven't been too active lately been recovering from multiple back surgeries. But I got to say you guys are very serious about this. I was making mostly wine kits but am thinking about buying some juice this fall and going all in on a Cab. Might invest in some oak barrels also. Since I live in a condo I think the neighbors might be a bit upset if I planted some vines on community property. But, they sure like drinking my wine.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Another Ohio guy here, Youngstown area.. Haven't been too active lately been recovering from multiple back surgeries. But I got to say you guys are very serious about this. I was making mostly wine kits but am thinking about buying some juice this fall and going all in on a Cab. Might invest in some oak barrels also. Since I live in a condo I think the neighbors might be a bit upset if I planted some vines on community property. But, they sure like drinking my wine.

Greetings Ricks Wine.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

I would need a little more data.
will the 15 gallons of water cover all your vines and be used on just the vines?
how many square feet are you covering?

I use 1/2 oz per gallon based on 1/3 acre and 8 gallons of water.

so if you roughly have 1/3 acre to spray and will use all 15 gallons of water, I would use 1/4 oz per gallon

I would also add the immunox. Immunox and mancozeb work differently and mancozeb will not cover all the mildews, and this time of year mildew has some bad potentials.

I have 45 vines currently, but the rows are not close together. They take up about 1/2 to 2/3 acre. I can spray all the vines with about 2 gallons.

I have never filled the tank to more than 5 gallons, but was just letting you know what equipment I have.

I was hoping to find a mix that I can use on my apple and plums as well, which means I would use about 4 gallons, but that may not be possible. It's hard for me to calculate spray based on acreage because I space my stuff out. I like the space to maneuver the tractors. My grape rows are 15 feet apart and my vines are set at a 7.5 foot spacing. Sorry if it's a little confusing, but it is for me and I live here.
Thanks

 

[shrewsbury]

not confusing, you do what works for you, and that is how it should be.
You should be able to use immunox on the trees.
I would do the mancozeb and immunox on both (in fact that is what I do with my apple trees)
I would use 1oz of the mancozeb for the vines.
I would need to be home to get the amount of immunox to use.
I have the products broken down by coverage, what it controls, and cost per spray.
If you want you can email me at [email protected] and I can share what I have with you.

 

[Mcjeff]

Another Ohio guy here Portage County. Good to hear some grape growing advice for the region as I’m just getting started and most of what I find to read up on is for other regions. I planted 7 each of Marquette and Cayuga last year and Chambourcin and Noiret this year. I also have some established concord. I found some bettles the other day so I need to get on that. Thanks for the info!

 

[shrewsbury]

Please don't take my advice as expert advice. I only have 3 years of experience but I have done a ton of research. OSU has some great content, but it is hard to navigate and find. I am just passing on what I have read or tried.
The main "grape guy" of OSU states that mancozeb should be the backbone of any ohio grape growing.
spray early and often. depending on the variety you will want to replace mancozeb with captan around the end of june.
mancozeb does nothing for powdery mildew or bot rot. that is why you need to add something like immunox and toward the end of may using a product like abound maybe once per month.

 

[keverman]

Powdery mildew question: I am just now seeing subtle, splotchy white-grey areas on leaves, and I'm about 3 weeks from harvest on my Marquette. Do I spray this late in the game, or would it be okay to wait until after harvest? If I need to now, Captan?