99% of the time it is a safety switch. The garden tractor forums I am on pretty much have banned people saying to bypass them, but it is pretty commonly done. Every one I have (and I have a lot of them) has the stand-alone safety switches disconnected. The PTO safety switch on most machines is internal to the switch and is dependent on where the switch is positioned, so just check to make sure you don't have it inadvertently ON.I didn't finish the body work on the hood yet, but I couldn't help myself and decided to paint the rest of the Jeep Army green on Saturday to give me some inspiration. It really is looking like an Army Jeep!
Before I put the seat on, which makes access to the battery a problem, I wanted to start it up and make sure the battery was charged and it was good to go. Turn the key and nothing. Not a click or sound. Checked the battery and it was charged, checked the starter to battery ground, since I removed the metal body and it too was good. Checked the fuse, it was good. I found the schematic on line and there are 4 safety switches. I retained the brake and reverse switch, I had bypassed seat switch and didn't know about the PTO switch. I'll have to find that one and bypass. Hopefully that is it.
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On most models, yes. That one and the seat switch are the two that are usually first to get bypassed. The brake switch is a common fault, as it gets more workout than the others. Be sure to test the switches themselves when you temporarily bypass them, too, and make sure the orientation on the switch is such that it can indeed turn on and off.Thanks @jswordy. Since I don't have a mower deck and the seat is long gone, I feel comfortable bypassing those two switches. I'll keep the brake switch to make sure the brake is depressed before starting. Is the reverse switched only there to kill the engine if the PTO is engaged and you put it in reverse?
Thanks for the help, I'm not familiar with riding mowers.On most models, yes. That one and the seat switch are the two that are usually first to get bypassed. The brake switch is a common fault, as it gets more workout than the others. Be sure to test the switches themselves when you temporarily bypass them, too, and make sure the orientation on the switch is such that it can indeed turn on and off.
Is your solenoid separate from your starter? If so, you can jump the S and BAT terminals to see if it turns over that way. That would confirm the wiring downstream of the solenoid.
Check your harness where it attaches to the ignition switch, too. If it is a single plug, try turning the key to start while wiggling the plug around. LOTS of times dirt and corrosion get in those plugs and wiggling it can get things to turn. Then you know what to do after that!
Another oddball thing is to clean inside your ignition switch. Disconnect the battery and spray inside the key hole with contact cleaner. Work the switch with the key. Spray again, work again. Spray again. Let it air dry for quite a while, hook up the battery, and see if things turn over.
Hope so. If it were me, that'd be, "Meh. Too easy."Thanks for the help, I'm not familiar with riding mowers.
Since the reverse and the PTO switch deal with the mower deck blade safety (which are now gone) and I no longer have their seat, I'll hard wire those in the "ON" position. I'll keep the brake safety switch.
I'm pretty confident the PTO switch is the issue with it not starting. It ran before I started the Jeep transformation. I took all of mower deck parts out, including the controls when I removed the body; there would be nothing left to be depressing that PTO safety switch.
Good catch, I think it would really help the overall look.NorCal, love the OD paint. Looks great. Do you plan to rig a windshield?
I like your upgrades. The out the back exhaust will probably need to use a larger diameter pipe to the back than the exhaust tip on the small engine in order to succeed. They just don't have that much push for a very long exhaust system, and can drown on their own back-pressure, cutting power and even making them hard to start or non-starting. I'd think at least 1-1/2 inches diameter.Good catch, I think it would really help the overall look.
Initial build punch list
- Need to wire and install front and rear lights.
- Finish hood area and paint
- Add stars and letters
- Install trailer hitch
- finish and paint trailer to match
- hinged hood with hold down latches
- clean up dash area
- out the back exhaust
- adjustable seat (I’m 6’3”, the Mrs 5’1”)
- build windshield
- add ammo boxes, shove, rope on bumper
- steering wheel turn limiter (front tires hit frame when cranked all the way)
Thanks all for letting me post this here in the off season In this winemaking forum. It is motivational for me to be able to post the progress.
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