my fungicide chart for northern wisconsin

Winemaking Talk - Winemaking Forum

Help Support Winemaking Talk - Winemaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wood1954

Senior Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Messages
1,325
Reaction score
1,462
Location
Northern wisconsin
this is what ive been using for a couple years now.

Fungicidefrac codePHIdosePhomopsisBlack RotDowny MildewPowdery MildewBotrytisBitterAnthrac
April-July 4th
MancozebMO3661 Tbls/gal, 2 oz/4 gals+++++++++++
0​
+++++
SulfurMO202 tbls/gal, 4oz/4 gals
0​
0​
0​
+++
0​
0​
?
CaptanMO402 tbls/gal, 4oz/4 gals++++++++
0​
+++++
tebuconazole use after flowering3143 oz/4 gals++++/+
0​
++++++/+----
July 5th- frost
myclobutanil3141 tbsp/4 gals
0​
+++
0​
+++
0​
0​
+++
tebuconazole3143 oz/4 gals++++/+
0​
++++++/+----
Heritage11141oz/4 galsxxxxxxxxx
CaptanMO402 tbls/gal, 4oz/4 gals++++++++
0​
+++++
phostrolP0701oz/galxxxxxx
Bacilli d747BM020.5 oz/ gallonxxxxxxxxxxxx
lime sulfurn/a12 oz/gallonxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
bifenthrin insecticide21.5 oz per gallon
thuricide BT0
Malathion3
pyrethrin1
 
All at the same time? Do you rotate chemicals to prevent resistance? Spray schedule? I didn’t spray last year but need to be ready this year and have so many questions.
 
All the chemicals can be tank mixed effectively, just have to keep it mixed well. The frac codes are how I rotate, depending on rain I spray every ten days or so. Usually spray when the shoots are a couple inches, then before flowering. Immediately after flowering, then every ten days are so. This year I’m out of sulfur and have a lot of tebuconazole so I’ll use that instead of sulfur. In the chart , the more Xs mean the fungicide is more effective. Also remember to keep spraying after harvest. I’m pretty confident that the dosing is the least amount needed to be effective.
 
Back
Top